Losing oil in my Lexus GS 350
#17
I have GS 350 AWD and had to top off my engine oil every 2500 Miles , replacing the valve gasket and spark plugs seals fixed the issue for me. you can try that but its considered a big job
#18
Hello all,
Just wanted to get some answers on this topic from owners:
1) Do 2010+ owners experience more oil consumption than 2007-09 owners do
2) Are the piston rings different from the 08+ IS350 ? Do IS350 motors suffer from oil consumption ?
I appreciate the replies.
Just wanted to get some answers on this topic from owners:
1) Do 2010+ owners experience more oil consumption than 2007-09 owners do
2) Are the piston rings different from the 08+ IS350 ? Do IS350 motors suffer from oil consumption ?
I appreciate the replies.
#19
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From 2006 GS300 all the way to 2016 Lexus GS350, GS450H, and IS350 RC350 etc. These cars do not have a fault in the design, only not properly maintained engines will suffer.
I run regular castrol gtx 10/20 oil every 2500 miles I have nearly 160k miles no issues with burning oil or oil consumption. If you run old plugs, dont do top engine cleaning (seafoam/bg etc) this will allow carbon to build up between the oil rings and the piston.
I run regular castrol gtx 10/20 oil every 2500 miles I have nearly 160k miles no issues with burning oil or oil consumption. If you run old plugs, dont do top engine cleaning (seafoam/bg etc) this will allow carbon to build up between the oil rings and the piston.
That's not true...I have had my 07 GS 350 AWD since 2009 I am the second owner and I aquired it with just 44,000 ml. ALL maintenance was done by Lexus Dealer at dealer's recommend service intervals. My GS has 245,000 miles and Im adding anywhere from 5qt between dealers recommend 5000 mile oil and filter change. which is scary because my daughter drive's the car more now. I purchased my second GS brand new 2013, and now the 3rd and final brand new GS in Jul of 2020. I know that I have taken exceptional care of all of my car's, but its to many people on this forum with same issue for it not to be a KNOWN manufacture's design flaw.. I don't have these oils spots or stain on driveway or garage floor which would be a indicator that something was leaking. The all around performance of the vehicle is still good, so please don't paint loyal brand owners with a brush of negligence.
#20
That's not true...I have had my 07 GS 350 AWD since 2009 I am the second owner and I aquired it with just 44,000 ml. ALL maintenance was done by Lexus Dealer at dealer's recommend service intervals. My GS has 245,000 miles and Im adding anywhere from 5qt between dealers recommend 5000 mile oil and filter change. which is scary because my daughter drive's the car more now. I purchased my second GS brand new 2013, and now the 3rd and final brand new GS in Jul of 2020. I know that I have taken exceptional care of all of my car's, but its to many people on this forum with same issue for it not to be a KNOWN manufacture's design flaw.. I don't have these oils spots or stain on driveway or garage floor which would be a indicator that something was leaking. The all around performance of the vehicle is still good, so please don't paint loyal brand owners with a brush of negligence.
#21
Driver School Candidate
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4 months ago I went for my oil change after 3000 mi. My low engine oil light was on. Mechanic said I had no oil in my car. He put in 6qts and told me to take it to the dealer. I did and they had me drive for a 1000 mi and bring back. This went on for 4 months and 4000 mi before they said they had diagnosed the problem. They said that I did not have a consumption problem. They said I had a bad engine oil sensor. I work everyday so I decided I would get a new sensor on a holiday off. a couple weeks after that I checked my oil a lo and behold there was no oil in my car. Has anyone experienced this problem
#22
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
Well I did some research and it seems that Amsoil brand engine oil might help this issue with these engines. The oil shows to hold up its original lubrication even after 8,000 miles, I know it might sound crazy but if you watch the videos on there fluids you might be very surprised. If you don't have an oil leak you should try it out.
That is not a good idea! The main cause for these oil issues is that the oil control rings get clogged, they get clogged because many will run their oils past 4-5,000 even more miles. Once you clog the oil rings, the oil will slip past the rings and into the combustion chamber and burning off in the tail pipe. If you have oil issues, I would purchase and run a product from BG epr and moa, it is an internal engine cleaner, follow the directions and hopefully that will unclog the rings.
Expensive oil will run to 8k 20k etc, theres no debating there lubricity, but many will run paper oil filters, those filters will not last that long. Best to stick to any decent brand oil, doesnt have to be expensive as these cars are low revving, and do not have turbos or superchargers. But change your oil at 3000 miles, and use oem oil filters. Having fresh clean oil is better for your engine to keep its internals clean. Especially with our higher mileage engines you will have more sludge or carbon inside the engine.
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LxSBase (09-01-21)
#23
Driver School Candidate
That is not a good idea! The main cause for these oil issues is that the oil control rings get clogged, they get clogged because many will run their oils past 4-5,000 even more miles. Once you clog the oil rings, the oil will slip past the rings and into the combustion chamber and burning off in the tail pipe. If you have oil issues, I would purchase and run a product from BG epr and moa, it is an internal engine cleaner, follow the directions and hopefully that will unclog the rings.
Expensive oil will run to 8k 20k etc, theres no debating there lubricity, but many will run paper oil filters, those filters will not last that long. Best to stick to any decent brand oil, doesnt have to be expensive as these cars are low revving, and do not have turbos or superchargers. But change your oil at 3000 miles, and use oem oil filters. Having fresh clean oil is better for your engine to keep its internals clean. Especially with our higher mileage engines you will have more sludge or carbon inside the engine.
Expensive oil will run to 8k 20k etc, theres no debating there lubricity, but many will run paper oil filters, those filters will not last that long. Best to stick to any decent brand oil, doesnt have to be expensive as these cars are low revving, and do not have turbos or superchargers. But change your oil at 3000 miles, and use oem oil filters. Having fresh clean oil is better for your engine to keep its internals clean. Especially with our higher mileage engines you will have more sludge or carbon inside the engine.
#24
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
thanks alot, I figured it might work for others since it worked for me.. I bought this car while it was on its last leg, I had oil being sucked into intake, random misfires, timing cover oil leak. After valve cover and spark plug grommets change, all coil packs replace, spark plugs, oil change with stop leak added I finally have no check engine codes. If people changed there oils on time and kept good quality fluids in, the cars will perform great.
our engines were designed at a time when it was common to replace oil at 3,000 miles. Then new car dealers started one upping each other by claiming there cars were easier to maintain. So we went from 3k to 5k oil changes, now new lexus cars are up to 10k miles oil changes. You can get away with it when you have a brand new engine, but after 4 years or 80-100k miles thats when your warranty runs out. Then your screwed! Guess what the dealerships will then tell you that you need to rebuild your engine.
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LxSBase (09-01-21)
#25
Driver School Candidate
our engines were designed at a time when it was common to replace oil at 3,000 miles. Then new car dealers started one upping each other by claiming there cars were easier to maintain. So we went from 3k to 5k oil changes, now new lexus cars are up to 10k miles oil changes. You can get away with it when you have a brand new engine, but after 4 years or 80-100k miles thats when your warranty runs out. Then your screwed! Guess what the dealerships will then tell you that you need to rebuild your engine.
#26
Driver School Candidate
our engines were designed at a time when it was common to replace oil at 3,000 miles. Then new car dealers started one upping each other by claiming there cars were easier to maintain. So we went from 3k to 5k oil changes, now new lexus cars are up to 10k miles oil changes. You can get away with it when you have a brand new engine, but after 4 years or 80-100k miles thats when your warranty runs out. Then your screwed! Guess what the dealerships will then tell you that you need to rebuild your engine.
My wifes 2000 Infiniti manual shows oil intervals at 6500 so longer intervals go back that far at least. Its never burned oil between its yearly 5k-7k mi changes even with 120k miles on the clock now, running Mobil1 full syn.
In many cases I know of oil issues when people I knew tried to get by with a cheaper syn blend usually by the quick lube joints, no telling whats in their hose even? People just see syn on receipt thinking its the correct oil every time. Problem is there is no set standards in place on how much syn is actually in a blend? Meaning it can be a tanker of dyno with a thimble of syn and sold as a syn blend. Like regular dyno they don't clean enough to fight sludge nor withstand the heat nearly as well either. Its why turbine jet engines only use full syn is dyno breaks down way too fast. My brother, a now retired nuclear engineer has been like a broken record saying use full syn in "everything" you can put it in...lol He started out designing jet engines in the mid 60's. Think dyno does the trick? Check this link out on true syn.
https://www.machinedesign.com/mechan...gine-lubricant
fwiw- My 2005 Tundra 4.7 burns no oil using Mobil1 full syn doing once a yr changes on it, always with a 10k+ Purolator oil filter (Its true people will use cheapo paper filters with extended, wrong move!!). Usually I'm around the 6 to 8k mile mark, I never went 10k yet though I just changed my valve cover gaskets recently and my 4.7 looked like brand new inside at 360k, no cam wear was present at all and no crusties anywhere. (yep I looked down there too, had one. Oh no' thats None, I meant I had "None" down there..lol)
Some used car engines without a design flaw causing their oil issues at lower miles is from the type of oil used or from the owner who ran an engine too low on oil and the rings/bearings/cylinders got excessive wear, happens very quickly btw.
People do it more than you ever think and its why they have idiot lights for them. Air in tires too now...duuhh. Think how many people ask why that light is on? Thats because they never even look at their tires and can't tell if one is flat either..geeez!
Oh well' a stuck rings very common on certain ring designs and can make engines burn quite a bit of oil, it can happen early on or later in the engines life.
Secret- "Sometimes" you can run those engines at very high RPM's and the pressure/Compression will force the ring to seat again and actually fixes the issue. It works "sometimes" or so they say...lol
Nissan had stuck ring issues many yrs ago and the first thing their mechanics did was go out and drive the crap out of the customers car, red lining it several times then have them do an oil test to see if it fixed the issue. My nephew has been a Nissan mechanic well over 20yrs and says it works "sometimes", only reason I know this...lol It helps with the carbon buildup too btw.
We all know to blow the carbon out of our cars but some engines really need a good spanking so they clean their act up..lol
Peace
#27
Not True!!
Secret- "Sometimes" you can run those engines at very high RPM's and the pressure/Compression will force the ring to seat again and actually fixes the issue. It works "sometimes" or so they say...lol
Nissan had stuck ring issues many yrs ago and the first thing their mechanics did was go out and drive the crap out of the customers car, red lining it several times then have them do an oil test to see if it fixed the issue. My nephew has been a Nissan mechanic well over 20yrs and says it works "sometimes", only reason I know this...lol It helps with the carbon buildup too btw.
We all know to blow the carbon out of our cars but some engines really need a good spanking so they clean their act up..lol
Peace
Secret- "Sometimes" you can run those engines at very high RPM's and the pressure/Compression will force the ring to seat again and actually fixes the issue. It works "sometimes" or so they say...lol
Nissan had stuck ring issues many yrs ago and the first thing their mechanics did was go out and drive the crap out of the customers car, red lining it several times then have them do an oil test to see if it fixed the issue. My nephew has been a Nissan mechanic well over 20yrs and says it works "sometimes", only reason I know this...lol It helps with the carbon buildup too btw.
We all know to blow the carbon out of our cars but some engines really need a good spanking so they clean their act up..lol
Peace
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