GS - 3rd Gen (2006-2011) Discussion about the 2006+ model GS300, GS350, GS430, GS450H and GS460

Freshened up my parking brake

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Old 10-24-18, 04:35 PM
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potatomon
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Default Freshened up my parking brake

My parking brake was so useless and I was dreading doing this job but it turned out to be pretty easy.

Installed new shoes and all new hardware all for under $15.

I figured the cable was too loose as well because the parking brake was too loose when enabled, and yet was still scraping when disabled. So I just left both brake sho adjusters in their minimum position and tightened up the foot brake cable. Now when it's disabled the hub spins freely but when it's enabled it grabs super hard..

7-9 clicks should be the max it goes, that's how you know it's adjusted good and as the shoes wear away you adjust the thingies that make them go apart more.

Last edited by potatomon; 10-24-18 at 04:56 PM.
Old 10-24-18, 04:43 PM
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gs350fan
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Would it hold solid at about 1200RPM? That is how they would inspect it in NY.
Old 10-24-18, 04:51 PM
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potatomon
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Well I put a long breaker bar between the studs and tried to spin the wheel with it but it wouldn't bulge so I think it should hold 1200rpm. and didn't replace my ancient rotors, screw it. They're still good
Old 10-25-18, 08:56 AM
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potatomon
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Well I got it to hold it's own weight on a steep slope but it won't hold in D at idle..I think this is as good as it's gonna get without changing rotors and the cables...

Last edited by potatomon; 10-25-18 at 06:21 PM.
Old 10-25-18, 06:36 PM
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potatomon
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Originally Posted by gs350fan
Would it hold solid at about 1200RPM? That is how they would inspect it in NY.
Thanks, now I can't sleep until it holds 1200rpm. Hypothetically I could get them that tight but 100% sure I wouldn't be able to spin the wheel by hand with the ebrake OFF.

I think I'll try that. Im gonna turn the adjuster to spread the shoes way out then go for a drive and it should wear away a little pad(shoe) material so it won't scrape with the ebrake off but hopefully I get to that "NY standard"

Old 10-25-18, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by potatomon
Well I got it to hold it's own weight on a steep slope but it won't hold in D at idle..I think this is as good as it's gonna get without changing rotors and the cables...

That would fail, The official state spec is "Must hold stationary at a slightly accelerated speed" Depending on where you take it, that can be interpreted.

There are quick lube places that only do inspections and no repairs. They will use the 1200 RPM strict test.
Many shops will put it in drive and see if it holds (if it can't handle that, it is a failure)
Some places, if they know you or are just lazy, won't inspect it.

Those drum parking brakes are also found on Crown Vics, Explorers, etc. They are a PITA to adjust right, Also, they have to be broken in, Use the brake to stop the car a few times.
Old 10-26-18, 05:53 AM
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KevGS460ML
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Originally Posted by potatomon
So I just left both brake sho adjusters in their minimum position and tightened up the foot brake cable. Now when it's disabled the hub spins freely but when it's enabled it grabs super hard..
So, how do you adjust the foot brake cable?
Old 10-26-18, 12:25 PM
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potatomon
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Originally Posted by KevGS460ML
So, how do you adjust the foot brake cable?
is a threaded rod with 2 bolts on the pedal. press the pedal just a bit to be able to reach it. use a deep socket 10mm to turn both nuts at once. make sure the counter nut is tight after
Old 10-26-18, 03:16 PM
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MX73
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It should drag a little when the parking brake is disengaged. Adjusting the cable is a supplement to adjusting the rear shoes.
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