When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
For people with hazard keep blinking, try pressing the hazard button very hard. Maybe it's in the "ON" button mode. For my hazard button, guess the build quality isn't that good cause I have to press the hazard button firmly in to turn it off and on.
My issue was that when I connect the cable. It starts blinking already without even connecting to the unit.
For people with hazard keep blinking, try pressing the hazard button very hard. Maybe it's in the "ON" button mode. For my hazard button, guess the build quality isn't that good cause I have to press the hazard button firmly in to turn it off and on.
Well, finally got mine installed and had this extra cable dangling... LOL. The tesla head unit has 6 plugs, but my factory navi head unit has 7. Anyone know the purpose of this cable? Wonder if it's something important, since it's not plugged into anything right now.
MX73, i have the same car as you, 2006 GS300, and also bought the same headunit from your ebay link and amazon backup camera and followed your instructions. But for some reason, when I reverse, the backup camera isn't showing, nothing changes on the screen as if I had no backup camera. Did you have to change some kind of option at first to enable the reverse camera in the beginning?
Did you use those blue splice clamps that came with the backup cam? Sometimes, they don't cut into the wire enough to expose the bare wires. Also, did you splice into the brown wire labeled "BACK"? What color wire did you splice on the inner taillight harness?
I didn't have 7 cables. Only 6. It might be from the nav computer to the factory HU.
I think the vendor has an airbag harness that fixes the airbag light from coming on. The instruction that came with the unit shows it for the IS unit. Maybe it will work on the GS.
The Hazard button is iffy. You have to hit the button firmly and sometimes you have to hit its sweet spot.
Did you use those blue splice clamps that came with the backup cam? Sometimes, they don't cut into the wire enough to expose the bare wires. Also, did you splice into the brown wire labeled "BACK"? What color wire did you splice on the inner taillight harness?
Thanks for the tip, you were right, I opened up the inner trunk again and looked at the splicing, and the included splice clamps didn't even cut the factory wires correctly to tap into the reverse braking lights (since those factory wires seems thicker). So I got some better wire splicers and now reverse camera is working. But noticed another problem. The trajectory lines are inaccurate... lol
Like my wheels are straight when I'm reversing, but the trajectory lines still think I'm reversing right. Is there like a calibration option or reset option or something that you know of or was yours accurately straight from the start?
For people with hazard keep blinking, try pressing the hazard button very hard. Maybe it's in the "ON" button mode. For my hazard button, guess the build quality isn't that good cause I have to press the hazard button firmly in to turn it off and on.
Well, finally got mine installed and had this extra cable dangling... LOL. The tesla head unit has 6 plugs, but my factory navi head unit has 7. Anyone know the purpose of this cable? Wonder if it's something important, since it's not plugged into anything right now.
MX73, i have the same car as you, 2006 GS300, and also bought the same headunit from your ebay link and amazon backup camera and followed your instructions. But for some reason, when I reverse, the backup camera isn't showing, nothing changes on the screen as if I had no backup camera. Did you have to change some kind of option at first to enable the reverse camera in the beginning?
That connector seems to be unique to Mark Levinson equipped cars. Mine has it too and there is no connector for it. I think my sound quality took a hit (especially when I crank it up). All of my speakers work, including the sub, but I'm not positive that it's going through the amp.
That connector seems to be unique to Mark Levinson equipped cars. Mine has it too and there is no connector for it. I think my sound quality took a hit (especially when I crank it up). All of my speakers work, including the sub, but I'm not positive that it's going through the amp.
Mike
All the sound should run through the amp, otherwise, there won't be any sound. I don't think there is an amp bypass. One way to find out is to unplug the speaker harness at the amp side. It could be that the HU lacks any of the signal processing that the original HU has.
I have to say my sound quality also took a dive. It distorts easily at higher volume. I have the Infinity Reference speakers all around.
Thanks for the tip, you were right, I opened up the inner trunk again and looked at the splicing, and the included splice clamps didn't even cut the factory wires correctly to tap into the reverse braking lights (since those factory wires seems thicker). So I got some better wire splicers and now reverse camera is working. But noticed another problem. The trajectory lines are inaccurate... lol
Like my wheels are straight when I'm reversing, but the trajectory lines still think I'm reversing right. Is there like a calibration option or reset option or something that you know of or was yours accurately straight from the start?
I didn't have to calibrate my unit. It lines up. I'm wondering if the steering angle is reading off. The only way to find out is to hook up a techstream machine to the vehicle and see what the values are.
That connector seems to be unique to Mark Levinson equipped cars. Mine has it too and there is no connector for it. I think my sound quality took a hit (especially when I crank it up). All of my speakers work, including the sub, but I'm not positive that it's going through the amp.
Mike
I might be wrong. That cable may be for the stock NAV.
All the sound should run through the amp, otherwise, there won't be any sound. I don't think there is an amp bypass. One way to find out is to unplug the speaker harness at the amp side. It could be that the HU lacks any of the signal processing that the original HU has.
I have to say my sound quality also took a dive. It distorts easily at higher volume. I have the Infinity Reference speakers all around.
Yep, that's what I'm talking about. Higher volumes definitely distort. There is a "use DSP" option in the settings, but I didn't notice a difference there.
Yep, that's what I'm talking about. Higher volumes definitely distort. There is a "use DSP" option in the settings, but I didn't notice a difference there.
I don't have the DSP option. Maybe that is a Mark Levinson function. There is another volume option in settings. I have it set to 40 and it seems to fix the distort a little bit. It just hisses a lot the higher I go but I have the dinky base model amp.
I'm probably going to add the aftermarket amp soon. I'm currently battling all these cold weather rattles. It's driving me up the wall. I was this close to trading my GS for a 2015 GS F-Sport, fully loaded with rear dynamic steering.
Yep, that's what I'm talking about. Higher volumes definitely distort. There is a "use DSP" option in the settings, but I didn't notice a difference there.
did you guys set your volume to 30-35 based on recommendations before disconnecting the oem unit? I noticed the distortion when the volume was set at the teens when I took the oem unit off, but not when it was set to 30s.
Well, I made a discovery on these units. It seems like we been Chinese bamboozled... lol.
If you look carefully, on the photo, it says API Level 19, that means it's actually Android KitKat, as in Android 4.4. They marketed it as Android 6.0 because they just change the build number and version to trick us and hope we don't find out thinking we buying the newer models. On the positive side, if you look below the red circle, it does say "Rooted Device - Yes", so I'll actually test this out further to see if it's really factory rooted. (You can test your own unit by install AIDA64 from the play store.)
did you guys set your volume to 30-35 based on recommendations before disconnecting the oem unit? I noticed the distortion when the volume was set at the teens when I took the oem unit off, but not when it was set to 30s.
You just saved the day. That was it. I turned the volume to 0, took out the new HU, put in the old one, turned it up to 35, took it out and put the new HU back in. No more distortion. Thanks!
Well, I made a discovery on these units. It seems like we been Chinese bamboozled... lol.
If you look carefully, on the photo, it says API Level 19, that means it's actually Android KitKat, as in Android 4.4. They marketed it as Android 6.0 because they just change the build number and version to trick us and hope we don't find out thinking we buying the newer models. On the positive side, if you look below the red circle, it does say "Rooted Device - Yes", so I'll actually test this out further to see if it's really factory rooted. (You can test your own unit by install AIDA64 from the play store.)
I was wondering why the Pandora app is not updating to the latest version. Crap. I have AIDA64 on the HU. I figure that I saw 6.0.4 that AIDA64 was reading the correct version of Android.
You just saved the day. That was it. I turned the volume to 0, took out the new HU, put in the old one, turned it up to 35, took it out and put the new HU back in. No more distortion. Thanks!
Ah. I went to the console tab and edit the amp info. My stock HU volume was set to 35. When I plug the tesla unit, it showed up 35. It also picked up the BASS, TREL, and MIDs from my stock unit. I reset those values to 0 and set the Cur Vol to 50. Sounds so much better now minus the mild hissing noise. I think I set the Cur Vol to high. So when I adjust the main volume on the home screen, 14 is super loud and 1 is like talking volume.
I figure that I saw 6.0.4 that AIDA64 was reading the correct version of Android.
It IS reading it correctly, it's just that the Chinese spoofed the Android version, so AIDA64 was reading what they spoofed, but they can't spoof the API Level, which is how I found out, it's actually Android 4.4.
Also, to help others out, since the dim function don't seem to work that correctly at night time driving (still kinda bright for my taste), install "Screen Filter" from play store and run it. It makes the screen so much better at night driving.
And does anyone know how to solve this? When I load up the play store or some other random app that isn't navigation, the radio gets cut off.
Also, when I use google maps or waze and when they announce directions, the radio cuts off, so the voice navigation can talk, then the radio comes back on (kinda annoying to me), anyway to make the radio just stay on and the voice navigation talking at the same time?
12-12-18, 06:01 AM
