2007 GS450H no electrical power
11-29-18, 06:19 AM
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2007 GS450H no electrical power
Has anyone ever had a situation where their GS450H had zero power? The car was parked, the window was rolled down. After sitting in the car for a some time with no accessories on, the car had no power. As in, the brake lights, the accessory, interior lights, NOTHING has power. There was a check engine light that came on but that was it.
After having the car towed, the car battery (no hybrid batter), was pulled and it tested at 13.7 volts. Just to be sure, I placed it on a deep cycle charge.
I am about to go have the battery tested before I start digging deeper into the car. Just to be sure, I went out to the car again after I tested the voltage on the car, and still there is NO power or lights. Not even an engine light.
If you have ever had this happen to your hybrid or can recommend a forum for discussion, I would love some advice.
After having the car towed, the car battery (no hybrid batter), was pulled and it tested at 13.7 volts. Just to be sure, I placed it on a deep cycle charge.
I am about to go have the battery tested before I start digging deeper into the car. Just to be sure, I went out to the car again after I tested the voltage on the car, and still there is NO power or lights. Not even an engine light.
If you have ever had this happen to your hybrid or can recommend a forum for discussion, I would love some advice.
11-29-18, 11:58 AM
#4
Glad you figured it out.
For future reference, just checking the static voltage (voltmeter across the bat. terminals) without the car running can give deceiving results. Batteries can display a high "surface charge", in your case, 13.7v, and still be bad. The only accurate way to test a battery is under load. If it's still in the car, you need to check the voltage while turning on the ignition and if possible, cranking the starter. Under those conditions the bat. should not drop below 10.5-11v. If it's drops below that it's likely bad. Some of the ECUs need a minimum voltage to operate properly. If the battery is out of the car, you can take it to just about any auto parts store and they will load test it for you.
For future reference, just checking the static voltage (voltmeter across the bat. terminals) without the car running can give deceiving results. Batteries can display a high "surface charge", in your case, 13.7v, and still be bad. The only accurate way to test a battery is under load. If it's still in the car, you need to check the voltage while turning on the ignition and if possible, cranking the starter. Under those conditions the bat. should not drop below 10.5-11v. If it's drops below that it's likely bad. Some of the ECUs need a minimum voltage to operate properly. If the battery is out of the car, you can take it to just about any auto parts store and they will load test it for you.
11-29-18, 01:09 PM
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13.7 was the stability control battery out of the car.
5 volts was the main battery out of the car.
I had both tested at a local shop. Both batteries were charged and then discharged under a load. The main battery failed.
But the good news the car electronics came back to life after the battery was charged. We have a new battery on its way from the dealer.
5 volts was the main battery out of the car.
I had both tested at a local shop. Both batteries were charged and then discharged under a load. The main battery failed.
But the good news the car electronics came back to life after the battery was charged. We have a new battery on its way from the dealer.
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