2006 gs300 burns oil
10-17-19, 05:50 AM
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
2006 gs300 burns oil
It is 2006 gs300 awd, i need to put a qurt every 600 miles. Car has 200k miles on it, is there a way to slow it down? I dont see any oil drip on the floor, any advice please help
10-17-19, 08:02 AM
#2
It's a common issue with the 3GR-FSE and older 4GR-FSE (IS250) motor due to carbon buildup. A qt ever 600 miles is pretty extreme though. I would probably try something like BG109 before changing the oil. Some people see a reduction in oil consumption, some may not.
10-17-19, 09:43 AM
#3
Rookie
Thread Starter
Every oil change?
10-17-19, 01:46 PM
#4
Most likely carbon build up! With this you will lose power, fuel, and loss of oil if you keep letting it go. The engine is getting choked internally. To fix it the right way you will need to rebuild/refresh the engine. But with 200k I dont think its worth it
You can try to clean the carbon yourself manually, to do this you will start by removing the intake manifold (not very difficult) this will give you access to the intake valves. Shine a flash light to inspect the valves in the head. You can start by spraying a good parts cleaner and let that soak, then you can use long handle fine copper brushs that will allow you to scrub the valves and the intake walls. You can also take it to a mini/bmw mechanic as they have a more severe carbon issue and they use walnut blasting inside the valves.
Once you clean the valves and intake you will need to clean the tops of the pistons, this is where your oil consumption issue is at. More likely your oil control rings are gummed up with carbon from the valves. This is allowing the oil to flow past the rings and into the combustion and out the exhaust pipe. It maybe too late, but you can try removing all your sparkplugs. Grab a funnel and pour seafom into each spark plug holes. Fill a good amount in there, and keep an eye at the fluid level. If you see a cylinder drop the fluid quickly then know that thats your piston thats eating up your oil, keep filling that cylinder up hopefully it loosens the gumming. Let the cleaner sit overnight, and with the plugs out "very important" crank the engine over and let all the seafoam spit out of the spark plug holes. Next you can put fresh new plugs, and change the oil plus adding an oil cleaner like the bg109
You can try to clean the carbon yourself manually, to do this you will start by removing the intake manifold (not very difficult) this will give you access to the intake valves. Shine a flash light to inspect the valves in the head. You can start by spraying a good parts cleaner and let that soak, then you can use long handle fine copper brushs that will allow you to scrub the valves and the intake walls. You can also take it to a mini/bmw mechanic as they have a more severe carbon issue and they use walnut blasting inside the valves.
Once you clean the valves and intake you will need to clean the tops of the pistons, this is where your oil consumption issue is at. More likely your oil control rings are gummed up with carbon from the valves. This is allowing the oil to flow past the rings and into the combustion and out the exhaust pipe. It maybe too late, but you can try removing all your sparkplugs. Grab a funnel and pour seafom into each spark plug holes. Fill a good amount in there, and keep an eye at the fluid level. If you see a cylinder drop the fluid quickly then know that thats your piston thats eating up your oil, keep filling that cylinder up hopefully it loosens the gumming. Let the cleaner sit overnight, and with the plugs out "very important" crank the engine over and let all the seafoam spit out of the spark plug holes. Next you can put fresh new plugs, and change the oil plus adding an oil cleaner like the bg109
10-17-19, 02:36 PM
#5
Rookie
Thread Starter
Most likely carbon build up! With this you will lose power, fuel, and loss of oil if you keep letting it go. The engine is getting choked internally. To fix it the right way you will need to rebuild/refresh the engine. But with 200k I dont think its worth it
You can try to clean the carbon yourself manually, to do this you will start by removing the intake manifold (not very difficult) this will give you access to the intake valves. Shine a flash light to inspect the valves in the head. You can start by spraying a good parts cleaner and let that soak, then you can use long handle fine copper brushs that will allow you to scrub the valves and the intake walls. You can also take it to a mini/bmw mechanic as they have a more severe carbon issue and they use walnut blasting inside the valves.
Once you clean the valves and intake you will need to clean the tops of the pistons, this is where your oil consumption issue is at. More likely your oil control rings are gummed up with carbon from the valves. This is allowing the oil to flow past the rings and into the combustion and out the exhaust pipe. It maybe too late, but you can try removing all your sparkplugs. Grab a funnel and pour seafom into each spark plug holes. Fill a good amount in there, and keep an eye at the fluid level. If you see a cylinder drop the fluid quickly then know that thats your piston thats eating up your oil, keep filling that cylinder up hopefully it loosens the gumming. Let the cleaner sit overnight, and with the plugs out "very important" crank the engine over and let all the seafoam spit out of the spark plug holes. Next you can put fresh new plugs, and change the oil plus adding an oil cleaner like the bg109
You can try to clean the carbon yourself manually, to do this you will start by removing the intake manifold (not very difficult) this will give you access to the intake valves. Shine a flash light to inspect the valves in the head. You can start by spraying a good parts cleaner and let that soak, then you can use long handle fine copper brushs that will allow you to scrub the valves and the intake walls. You can also take it to a mini/bmw mechanic as they have a more severe carbon issue and they use walnut blasting inside the valves.
Once you clean the valves and intake you will need to clean the tops of the pistons, this is where your oil consumption issue is at. More likely your oil control rings are gummed up with carbon from the valves. This is allowing the oil to flow past the rings and into the combustion and out the exhaust pipe. It maybe too late, but you can try removing all your sparkplugs. Grab a funnel and pour seafom into each spark plug holes. Fill a good amount in there, and keep an eye at the fluid level. If you see a cylinder drop the fluid quickly then know that thats your piston thats eating up your oil, keep filling that cylinder up hopefully it loosens the gumming. Let the cleaner sit overnight, and with the plugs out "very important" crank the engine over and let all the seafoam spit out of the spark plug holes. Next you can put fresh new plugs, and change the oil plus adding an oil cleaner like the bg109
10-18-19, 07:48 AM
#6
Instructor
Clean the valves - walnut blast or otherwise. Make sure that none of it ends up in the combustion chamber - the walnut blasting guys rotate the cylinders to TDC so that the valves are closed. Clean the intake manifold (aluminum thing with swirl flaps) & swirl chamber (the black plastic thing on top of it - also has flaps 
) while you're at it, replace PCV valve (might as well since it's cheap) + intake manifold gaskets.
You can try piston soaks - plenty of options around, the seafoam method is.... very old. Look up things like Pro-Tec Carbon X - not saying look that up specifically, but rather similar products, did some research awhile ago but can't find the rest. Plenty of discussions and tests around. Whatever you decide to do, change the oil right after "flushing" - i.e. they usually say "run the car for 5-10-20 minutes until it stops smoking (and it WILL smoke, a LOT)", change the oil right after.
Use a full synthetic (as in really full-synthetic, not group3+) low-SAPS (since you're DI - this severely limits carbon buildup caused by motor oil deposits) temperature stable (i.e. low NOACK) oil, start with a small OCI initially (say, 5k miles) to clean things up. The oil needs to be at operating temps, short drives won't do much.
You can also try a TC-W3 premix in the fuel (around 500:1, read up), PEA cleaners, etc.
) while you're at it, replace PCV valve (might as well since it's cheap) + intake manifold gaskets.You can try piston soaks - plenty of options around, the seafoam method is.... very old. Look up things like Pro-Tec Carbon X - not saying look that up specifically, but rather similar products, did some research awhile ago but can't find the rest. Plenty of discussions and tests around. Whatever you decide to do, change the oil right after "flushing" - i.e. they usually say "run the car for 5-10-20 minutes until it stops smoking (and it WILL smoke, a LOT)", change the oil right after.
Use a full synthetic (as in really full-synthetic, not group3+) low-SAPS (since you're DI - this severely limits carbon buildup caused by motor oil deposits) temperature stable (i.e. low NOACK) oil, start with a small OCI initially (say, 5k miles) to clean things up. The oil needs to be at operating temps, short drives won't do much.
You can also try a TC-W3 premix in the fuel (around 500:1, read up), PEA cleaners, etc.
10-25-19, 10:48 AM
#7
Rookie
Thread Starter
Clean the valves - walnut blast or otherwise. Make sure that none of it ends up in the combustion chamber - the walnut blasting guys rotate the cylinders to TDC so that the valves are closed. Clean the intake manifold (aluminum thing with swirl flaps) & swirl chamber (the black plastic thing on top of it - also has flaps ) while you're at it, replace PCV valve (might as well since it's cheap) + intake manifold gaskets.
You can try piston soaks - plenty of options around, the seafoam method is.... very old. Look up things like Pro-Tec Carbon X - not saying look that up specifically, but rather similar products, did some research awhile ago but can't find the rest. Plenty of discussions and tests around. Whatever you decide to do, change the oil right after "flushing" - i.e. they usually say "run the car for 5-10-20 minutes until it stops smoking (and it WILL smoke, a LOT)", change the oil right after.
Use a full synthetic (as in really full-synthetic, not group3+) low-SAPS (since you're DI - this severely limits carbon buildup caused by motor oil deposits) temperature stable (i.e. low NOACK) oil, start with a small OCI initially (say, 5k miles) to clean things up. The oil needs to be at operating temps, short drives won't do much.
You can also try a TC-W3 premix in the fuel (around 500:1, read up), PEA cleaners, etc.
) while you're at it, replace PCV valve (might as well since it's cheap) + intake manifold gaskets.You can try piston soaks - plenty of options around, the seafoam method is.... very old. Look up things like Pro-Tec Carbon X - not saying look that up specifically, but rather similar products, did some research awhile ago but can't find the rest. Plenty of discussions and tests around. Whatever you decide to do, change the oil right after "flushing" - i.e. they usually say "run the car for 5-10-20 minutes until it stops smoking (and it WILL smoke, a LOT)", change the oil right after.
Use a full synthetic (as in really full-synthetic, not group3+) low-SAPS (since you're DI - this severely limits carbon buildup caused by motor oil deposits) temperature stable (i.e. low NOACK) oil, start with a small OCI initially (say, 5k miles) to clean things up. The oil needs to be at operating temps, short drives won't do much.
You can also try a TC-W3 premix in the fuel (around 500:1, read up), PEA cleaners, etc.
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09-07-20, 03:52 PM
#8
Driver School Candidate
carbon build up bro, i have an 06 gs300 as well and had to top off my engine with oil every other week because my oil light kept coming up. even 2 weeks after an oil change my oil light came up. i went into a BMW shop, they do carbon walnut blasting for like $500-$800 depending on your city. My gs has more power and hasnt showed my oil light as of yet. i would look into this because this is the only draw back about owning a the 06 version.
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