TurdGS300

Hello (I did search but had no luck):

I had to delete my mid pipe (due to corrosion and finances its now a straight pipe). The car was bought second hand after a vehicular accident (my original vehicle, not this one).

Two weeks following the mid-pipe being straight piped my check engine light came on with Engine Codes P0136, P0138 and P0158.

My question is, has anybody tried the spark plug non-foulers with success (the non-fouler and 90* elbow). If it worked, can you give me some info.

Being as it is now winter and that it disconnects my stability control, I'd like to resolve this asap.

And like an idiot, no, I did not keep my old cats.

The engine also burns oil at a rate of approx. 1 L / 1200 km.

TurdGS300

Nobody? Anybody?

ibidu1

iTrader: (1)

Give it a shot! aslong as the foulers are behind the cats and not as the main front o2 sensors. Ive read of some members that have used them with success, maybe they will chime in.

As for the oil consumption what mileage do you replace your oil at and what oil are you using? Majority of the people with oil issues will run their oil past 5k miles.

TurdGS300

I bought it used about 4000km ago. My oil changes will be synthetic AMSOil 5W30 is whats in there now, mixed in with some castrol since it went low on me as a surprise. I drove it approx. 1000km when I bought it and then had an oil change. That's when I noticed it consuming. I did get valve cover gaskets and the PCV replaced. Next oil change i'll get the shop to check for external leaks again but I'm not holding my breath. I'm in an apartment with no garage so in the winter I do nothing on the cars.

As for the o2 sensors, I will try the non-fouler method and hopefully it fixes it. but I'm cheap so i'd like someone who tried it to have some input.

ibidu1

iTrader: (1)

Certain people have oil consumption issues with all the 3GS, its more common on 2006 GS300 because of added carbon buildup issues that those car a plagued with. Not sure your year or model, but if its 07-up GS350 most with oil issues that are internal. Come from gummed up piston control rings, when crud enters those passages and get gummed up the piston rings get locked into the piston usually they lock in compressed, allowing blow by and oil passed the rings.

The issue is most will purchase synthetic oils and think they are protected for over 5-20k miles because the bottle states it can last that long. Ok, the oil may not break down to where it stops lubricating. But they are not replacing the oil filter leaving crud/carbon/other deposits to build up inside the engine and blocking these vital oil ports. Our engines are not high revving nor turbo to justify using premium oils. For a long time I used conventional oil/non synthetic. But I replaced the oil every 2500-3000 miles. Im close to 200k miles on my 08 gs350 awd and never had an oil issues, or had the oil light come on.

This is what I would do after you have diagnosed that the oil loss issue is not external, buy some BG products 1. EPR run this oil flush right before you do an oil change 2. MOA is a cleaner you add with the new oil 3. is air intake system cleaner but remove all the spark plugs and pour this stuff directly inside each spark plug hole, fill it up and let it sit over night to soak. Next morning crank over the engine with no spark plugs, this will pump out all the remainder chemicals you poured in. Then installed the plugs and hopefully this will help loosen up those stuck rings.

TurdGS300

UPDATE
Car went to shop to check over the exhaust, the wiring and the signals going to the computer. The shop indicated that it seems to be that the heater circuit of both sensors were slow to respond or not responding.

Other factors:
The car had a chemical induction cleaning done at this time as well. And it soaked in the chambers for ~ 10 hours. The car was burning oil so hopefully this helps a bit.

Question:
What part # of rockauto will serve as a replacement? Which brand is good. (NTK 24131 vs. Denso 2344806)
Should I wait and see how the chemical cleaning worked first?
Could the heated circuit of the sensor be caused by a sloppy mechanic when they were doing/replacing my midpipe?

I just find it strange that both bank 1 and bank 2 sensors 2s went at the same time. Also I'd like to not replace it just yet if the codes could be brought up by a fouled up sensor from the engine burning oil.

Any suggestions, drop them below.

ibidu1

iTrader: (1)

Denso is whats original to the car, so that the brand I would go with.

Give it time and see it may clear up on its own

TurdGS300

Hasn't cleared up in the last couple weeks and i'm traveling 125km daily in the winter so if the chemical induction cleaning doesnt help it any. I'll likely order up two replacement DENSO units. hope those work.

I wouldn't even be worried about it if it didnt disengage my damn traction control.

ibidu1

iTrader: (1)

Its best to replace o2 sensors as they dictate your fueling. If your sensors are bad more likely you are burning more fuel then needed

TurdGS300

Do the downstream sensors dictate fueling or are those just to monitor the primary cat function?