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I think maybe your issue is with the new sensors you purchased. Did any of the tire shops probe the new sensors to read there serial numbers of each wheel? If they probed each sensor then the new tpms sensor should throw off a serial number and that serial number should register, and as for the 5th wheel that should read all zero's.
If it is the tpms you can buy denso brand from rockauto pretty cheap, $35 each! Denso is pretty much oem, even though they dont produce them.
I searched on aftermarket tpms sensors on amazon and read the reviews of toyota/lexus owners, and they were having the same issue as you. My suggestion, bite the bullet buy a set of denso sensors, write down the serial number of each sensor and have discount tire register the serial numbers into the ecu.
How does THIS work?
"Direct plug-and-play with no programming required" on the Denso units.
For newer toyota/lexus cars they do not require and are plug and play. For our older lexus you have to manually log in the serial numbers into the ecu.
Okay, hold up here. Can you tell us what car you have, and what market it was manufactured for (like, is it a JDM import to Australia or something)?
Did I say I didn't have that? Woops...
It's actually a button - had "switch" in my mind. Pushed in activates 2nd set of wheel sensors - I've never touched it. It's set to "Main" = clicked out, but I don't know how that would make a difference in my situation anyway. Unless there is some kind of easter egg combination (like disabling traction control).
I was just trying to find that post about using a jumper on the OBD2 Port to activate some function that "allows sensor communication", and came upon this "Loop Reset Tool". (WRTRST50):
I wonder if I'm stuck in a loop.
Stuck in a Loop
Toyota vehicles prior to 2009 are equipped with a Tire Pressure Warning Reset Switch that can be used for initialization. When the button is pushed and held for more than three seconds, the vehicle’s receivers are open and looking for the currently stored TPMS IDs.
What if there is a missing or broken sensor? What if there are new sensors on the vehicle that have not yet been programmed? This will cause the vehicle to become stuck in a loop, searching for TPMS IDs that are no longer there. If you have a scan tool and try to enter into the initialization mode it might say, “Lost Communication With ECU” or similar message.
Bartec USA has developed the Toyota Loop Reset tool to handle this issue. When a Toyota vehicle is stuck in the “loop,” the technician will not be able to write IDs using the OBD COMMS, and the tool will “error out.” To verify it is a result of the loop condition, the technician can select the READ IDs option, which will connect and read out the IDs. IF THIS IS SUCCESSFUL, THE VEHICLE IS IN THE “LOOP.” How to use the BARTEC WRTRST50 to Reset the Vehicle 1. Turn the ignition to the ON position. 2. Insert the WRTRST50 into the OBD II port on the vehicle. Once connected, press and hold the button on the WRTRST50 for at least 20 seconds. Do not cycle the ignition switch to the “OFF” position during this step. 3. Remove the WRTRST50, and resume the TPMS relearn procedure.
Figured I'd show what my dash looked like after that jumper attempt
Wish I could go back in time a day. I decided to let Discount try again armed with this new data from Matt (who got back to me almost instantly again after asking him about the whole "loop thing"). He said the programmers have a feature "that takes care of the loop". On the way to the closer store to let them have another stab, I stopped at a thrift store, saw that my right rear was flat (1 of the 2 that hadn't had issues before, and was at 38psi when I checked it 2 days ago), drove it another 50 feet to a car dealer that had a bay in back to ask for some air and the "adviser" guy said "your tire is ruined and you need a new one". He wouldn't touch it. He and 3 other techs gave me the "why is he parking there attitude". JUST PUT AIR IN SO I CAN TAKE IT DOWN THE STREET TO DISCOUNT YOU JERK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! FML! I only drove a mile from my house! I almost lost it. THIS is why it's nice to HAVE WORKING TPMS Sensors, so when you let Discount Tire touch your car you know when to go back. I spent 20 minutes pulling out my subwoofer and my spare in the parking lot. FUNFUNFUN...
Made it to Discount , $500 later - I have 2 new tires and the sensors still don't work. 80K mile tires were 8 years old with 13K miles on them = dryrot death. The other one he pulled off was cracking BIG TIME on the side exposed to the sun, so I guess it MIGHT have been a flat due to the sidewall seeping air. We tried calling Bartec tech support, but it wasn't Matt, and he didn't seem as knowledgeable. The programmer gets stuck at a certain screen when trying to enter the stored/scanned data into the ECU via OBD2. Sorry Bartec, but your programmers SUCK! Hurry up VXDiag!
New tire on RR was dead flat again today. Moved it into my driveway and the same area got scratched from moving 20 feet at a snails pace. Took 6 minutes to fill with my cheap compressor. Guess what it was... THE DAMN CORE WASN'T TIGHT!!! Had bubbles coming out the tip... I HIGHLY doubt the flat yesterday was due to sidewall seepage. Do I need a lawyer?
Where it's parked is in a low spot where all the snow and ice melts
Its difficult to tell, unless you take off the tire and inspect the inside for tire cracking to see if the tire is bad. But next time you shouldnt have driven on the tire with that flat. I have a small tire tiny portable inflator made by xiaomi, its super handy for situations like this.
More likely 20 feet you should be ok with the tire I wouldnt stress it. As for the valve stem, the shop will more likely divert the blame on you supplying aftermarket tpms sensors. Tighten up the core, air it up, purchase a set of denso tpms and move on with your life