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After 1 shop telling me they couldn’t adjust my adjustable rear camber arms I took it to another shop. They said they could but when tried to they said they couldn’t and that wheels would have to come off the car. So I told them to take the rear wheels off the car and adjust. They adjusted but now my passenger wheel looks like it sits too straight while my driver side is cambered. Passenger rear is at -1.6 and drivers side is is at -2.1. I’m lowered on bc coilovers, what kind of rear camber and toe (numbers) are you guys running? Please look at my (alignment) spec sheet and tell me if I should leave same or have them bring my passenger side in more with some more negative camber. They are both in the green but I don’t like how the (passenger) side wheel is sitting. I will post the front and rear alignment specs but the front changed (and I didn’t get the new print out) so it’s not exactly what it says on the sheet. I do have a slight pull to the right. Other alignment place told me to get a +20 front caster bushing for passenger side and this will raise that caster on that side because they say it always needs to be +5 or +7 higher than driver side. Do they make camber and or caster arms for fronts on these car and what will you guys reccomend. Thanks I’m advance.
btw I have a 2013 gs350 fsport lowered on bc coilovers
I would definitely want less negative camber on the driver's side. -2.1° seems like a lot. I'd rather my rears be closer to 0 to a bit of negative for best tire wear. Unless you are autocrossing or going "for a look" too much negative camber is just useless.
I would definitely want less negative camber on the driver's side. -2.1° seems like a lot. I'd rather my rears be closer to 0 to a bit of negative for best tire wear. Unless you are autocrossing or going "for a look" too much negative camber is just useless.
Agree, but how was the driver's side rear camber even adjusted/changed to -2.1°? I presume the OP has installed aftermarket rear adjustable camber arms.
The car should be pulling significantly toward the right because it has the most positive camber compared to the exaggerated negative camber on the left/driver side. A side to side difference of more than ½° will cause the car to pull.
Last edited by bclexus; 06-11-23 at 07:03 AM.
Reason: orthography
Agree, but how was the driver's side rear camber even adjusted/changed to -2.1°?
Minr was quite bad in the rear negative camber and the factory does have a provision for adjustment. I installed SPC arms to allow mine to be aligned properly.
Since OP already has those, that might be all they could manage with it lowered. Perhaps an old school alignment shop could do better.
With the way the rear hub has all the diffent arms attaching, I'm sure nothing can be adjusted all by itself but the only other setting in the rear is toe so I'd do everything towards camber as toe is easy.
Minr was quite bad in the rear negative camber and the factory does have a provision for adjustment. I installed SPC arms to allow mine to be aligned properly.
Since OP already has those, that might be all they could manage with it lowered. Perhaps an old school alignment shop could do better.
With the way the rear hub has all the diffent arms attaching, I'm sure nothing can be adjusted all by itself but the only other setting in the rear is toe so I'd do everything towards camber as toe is easy.
Yeah, I'm guessing with the car being lowered the OP is going for 'a look' to a greater degree(excuse the pun) than what the best stock alignment would be.
Rear camber looks much better. Mine were always between -2.2 and -1.9 and got inner wear to belt on factory control arms (stock look no mods). Got the SPC to make it -1.2 but will go down to -1 or -.5 next time.
After 1 shop telling me they couldn’t adjust my adjustable rear camber arms I took it to another shop. They said they could but when tried to they said they couldn’t and that wheels would have to come off the car.
Its bs. Btw, it wasnt Firestone was it? Similar experience. But I adjusted them myself and they were baffled. Also you do not have to take off the wheels. There is a video on youtube for the RCF (I think) and it literally shows done on same style rack using same hunter device. They also said that if in specs already they would not adjust to what we wanted. I asked them if they even know how to do it or if the customer did have a camber kit installed, and came to their shop at some point, what would the "tech" do? He couldnt answer. But the tech knows on the newer IS/GS styles where the adjustment is on the arm below. He was not used to this GS350/RCF style arm on top.