When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just an update. I took everyone's advice here and kinda blended it. 5 quarts of Pennzoil ultra 5w20 and two quarts of Kirkland synthetic 5w30. Hardly the worst thing I can do to this car, I'm sure it will be perfectly happy. It's summer right now so I'm not worried about the 5w cold start. I'm sure this oil will shear down over time anyway plus fuel contamination, so the couple quarts of 30w will give me peace of mind I guess.
I will say though labor prices have gone up. My local Indy that charges me $20 last year is now up to $30. Factor in oil plus filter and I'm at $50 for a change. I know, still reasonable but I'm used to much lower prices. Just a few short years ago I used to pay $10 for labor.
Haha way ahead of you. I already asked there as well. They advised I'm pretty much free to run whatever weight I see fit. Either oil would be a fine choice for my application
Oil company's already make specific blends for us. So I'm just wondering what the advantage is you are thinking by blending two blends already blended, that neither are the blend the car manufacture recommends? I would also suggest you do a shorter oci.
5w oil is rated down to -30F. Here in the northeast where I live, I think that should be perfectly fine.
Adding a few quarts of 30w I think will help lower shear over time. The longer you use an oil, the thinner it gets, especially if some fuel makes its way into the oil. To your last point, my OCI is generally 10k. Any synthetic on the market should be up to that task, easily.
Just an update. I took everyone's advice here and kinda blended it. 5 quarts of Pennzoil ultra 5w20 and two quarts of Kirkland synthetic 5w30. Hardly the worst thing I can do to this car, I'm sure it will be perfectly happy. It's summer right now so I'm not worried about the 5w cold start. I'm sure this oil will shear down over time anyway plus fuel contamination, so the couple quarts of 30w will give me peace of mind I guess.
I will say though labor prices have gone up. My local Indy that charges me $20 last year is now up to $30. Factor in oil plus filter and I'm at $50 for a change. I know, still reasonable but I'm used to much lower prices. Just a few short years ago I used to pay $10 for labor.
When an engine sits for an extended period of time - like being parked overnight - when it is first started (a.k.a cold start) is when the lubricant is of the greatest importance from a wear standpoint. This is true regardless of the ambient temperature when the engine is first (cold) started. If there is anytime from the moment in time it is first cold started to running the engine close to its redline for hours on-end in a high-speed cross country trip, to driving in heavy stop-'n-go traffic in NYC - it is that first startup after being parked overnight that will cause the absolute most engine wear. That is the time when metal-on-metal contact is most likely to occur because lubrication is delayed from reaching those critical areas and parts. So, to best protect against this cold startup wear your engine would be best served by having a 0W (1st number) motor oil, not a 5W (1st number).
Overlook the ambient temperature in parts of this video and pay attention to the point about cold starting an engine - regardless what the ambient temperature may happen to be.
Appreciate the input guys, but the difference between a 0w and 5w is negligible at best. Even if there is startup wear, I can guarantee we'll likely never see the effects in our lifetime. I will report back if there are any issues I encounter.
Does one engine not spin like 700 rmp's higher than the other engine also, and not have some oil systems differences? I could be wrong I'm not a Mustang guy, but I thought I remember reading about them in C&D.
All Coyote GTs redlined at 7000. The Boss 302 had a slightly hotter Coyote 5.0 that spun to 7500. I pegged the limiter a few times because the car pulled so hard at 7000, like it really wanted to go to 7500. After the S550 redesign in 2015, all GTs spun to 7500.
Originally Posted by bclexus
Just the 3.73 rear gear is enough to make a significant difference in mpg.
I've had the 'fun' of having numerous 4.11 rear ends in street driven 4-speed cars, and one with a 4.56 rear end . It was not much fun on a lengthy trip watching the tach rev constantly so high at highway cruising speed and it was no fun watching the gas gauge drop so quickly. If you could talk yourself into keeping your foot out of the Holley secondaries you might get lucky and average as much as 8 or 9 miles per gallon with the car.
Ooof. I at least had an overdrive. The Getrag MT82 (which I never had problems with over 90k miles, even though everyone complained about it) was a 6 speed single overdrive transmission. 5th gear was 1:1, and 1st was a real stump puller. The factory axle ratios were 3.23, 3.55, and 3.73 with a clutch diff. The Boss 302 (and parts bin Track Pack cars) all got 3.73 with a Torsen. Where I learned to love the Torsen - I would love to have one for my car.
Hate to brake out to you guys. 0w-20 is only a US thing due to CAFE. All countries, including Japan and Australia, you can use all these grades. Our dealer fills these cars with 5w-30.
Personally I do my own oil changes and have used 0w-20 and 30. Found 30 weight give a more refined engine sound.
06-20-23, 05:43 PM
