Npatel1050

Wanted some input on oil type. I know the recommended weight is 0w20 or 5w20, however I'm wondering about the verbiage listed after that.

"An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions."
Does that mean we would also be run a 30w oil in our cars? For a manual, this is very obscure, and I'm wondering why they didn't specify here.

bclexus

Toyota/Lexus engineers have designed its recent vehicle equipped engines to specially use 0W-20 motor oil. Any quality 0W-20 motor oil will provide the utmost protection and wear control. And that goes for endurance racing or towing - neither of which you will be doing. The messaging in the owners manual referring to 'high-speed' and 'extreme load conditions' in likely a continuation of old information that is no longer relevant or applicable for our engines. I would just overlook it and use the recommended 0W-20 motor oil. .

jgscott

iTrader: (1)

If you were at the Equator extreme heat, a cop car that idle and hardly ever shuts down, were towing all the time, or other very extreme maybe a different weight oil. Likely still the the factory spec 20w oils are just so good now a days. On this one I 100% agree with b/c on if it ain't broke don't try to fix it, and/or don't reinvent the wheel.

gravesg

Heres what you need to know.

I've ran 0w-20 all the way to 0w-40
0w-40 provides the most protection .. fuel economy will come down quite a bit tho.

now i run 0w-30, best of both worlds.

this engine can run 5w-40 with no issues based on toyota's international manual.

Gotta pick whats important, wear or gas mileage.

gravesg

Amsoil or renewable lubricants for oil if you need the best of the best.

jgscott

iTrader: (1)

You would be robbing Peter to pay Paul. At higher RPM and cold start the 20w provides better protection. The Toyota 2GR also runs very small high oil pressure offices. The change could also effect the VVT oil specification it was designed for.

bclexus

gravesg

Wrong, the first number 0w is the indicator for cold flow rating and the 2nd number is the thickness at operating temperature.
a 20 oil is thinner at operating temp than a 30, which is why in literally all published testing ever, the wear is always higher on metals with the 20 vs the 30.
a 0w gives you that silky cold start, which is why a 0w-30 combination for me checks all the boxes.
Also we should factor in fuel dilution and the just shearing down naturally, by the time you drain a 20 out its roughly an 18 due to sheer down.

Being an engineer pays my bills, the international manual for this car, as stated by toyota this exact engine will run 5w-40 with no issues if your climate calls for it.

jgscott

iTrader: (1)

What I said was - You would be robbing Peter to pay Paul. At higher RPM and cold start the 20w provides better protection. Yes the misconception is the higher numbers = x. The other thing to consider also again is the VVT design for the 20w oil from the factory. By your summary 30w could also be the worst of worst of both worlds arguably. If you consider all the facts of the best and worst.

Also you would need to consider the sheer number difference of each band oil of the same weight. You do know that each Brand type has a different sheer test number result? Don't you? The 20 to 18 variable would depend on which oil, what oil change interval and many other factors to make that 20 to 18 blanket statement. Now just to make sure there is no spin, I did not say you could not use 30w or 40w. I just said what I said.


The facts are: 1 - 10.

0w40 vs 0w20 engine oil. 10 differences

https://carphrases.com/0w40-vs-0w20-engine-oil/

bclexus

@gravesg - You're actually splitting hairs, by making a small and unnecessary distinction between 0W-20 and 0W-30 motor oils. Various brands of a 0W-30 may actually have the 2nd number test out slightly lower than 30.

Depending on the ambient temperature where the engine is operated and how long the engine has been sitting, it can take a wide range of time before engine oil reaches the 'typical operating temperature' of 100°C (212°F), In fact, the engine oil may never reach 100°C if the ambient temperature in which the engine operates is near or below zero degrees with airflow on the oil pan and block removing heat. That said, there is no best of both worlds, or one multi-viscosity motor oil that checks all the boxes. The facts of the matter is - either 0W-20 or 0W-30 can be used but it is indeterminable which one of the two would actually be 'the best' because there are many influencing factors that are unknown, unpredictable and unlimited to a large extent.

The carmaker has chosen to make 0W-20 the recommended motor oil to be used. Therefore, that fact alone should suffice to define what multi-viscosity motor oil is considered to be the [so-called] 'best' for the engines the carmaker has designed and elected to put into its vehicles. Of course if you have a preference or a belief that prompts you to deviate from the recommended 0W-20 motor oil there is nothing to stop you from using whatever you want - it's just not what the carmaker recommends.

GrandSedanFan

iTrader: (1)

Fun story - the standard oil spec for 2011-2014 Mustang GTs (Coyote 5.0) was 5W20. However, for Boss 302s, Shelby GT500s, and Track Pack equipped GTs, the oil spec was 5W50.

My Track Pack GT engine was mechanically identical to the standard GT engine, save for the addition of an oil cooler (added an additional .5qt to each oil change). 8.5qt of 5W50, at approximately $12.00 per quart, got expensive when I was driving 20,000 miles/yr. I never switched to 5W20, despite many other owners, and some dealerships, recommending it. The Track Pack also included 3.73 final drive, and between the gearing and the high viscosity oil, I was averaging 23-24mpg highway when other owners were seeing 25-26.

jgscott

iTrader: (1)

Does one engine not spin like 700 rmp's higher than the other engine also, and not have some oil systems differences? I could be wrong I'm not a Mustang guy, but I thought I remember reading about them in C&D.

bclexus

Just the 3.73 rear gear is enough to make a significant difference in mpg.

I've had the 'fun' of having numerous 4.11 rear ends in street driven 4-speed cars, and one with a 4.56 rear end . It was not much fun on a lengthy trip watching the tach rev constantly so high at highway cruising speed and it was no fun watching the gas gauge drop so quickly. If you could talk yourself into keeping your foot out of the Holley secondaries you might get lucky and average as much as 8 or 9 miles per gallon with the car.

Npatel1050

Just an update. I took everyone's advice here and kinda blended it. 5 quarts of Pennzoil ultra 5w20 and two quarts of Kirkland synthetic 5w30. Hardly the worst thing I can do to this car, I'm sure it will be perfectly happy. It's summer right now so I'm not worried about the 5w cold start. I'm sure this oil will shear down over time anyway plus fuel contamination, so the couple quarts of 30w will give me peace of mind I guess.

I will say though labor prices have gone up. My local Indy that charges me $20 last year is now up to $30. Factor in oil plus filter and I'm at $50 for a change. I know, still reasonable but I'm used to much lower prices. Just a few short years ago I used to pay $10 for labor.

jgscott

iTrader: (1)

Oil company's already make specific blends for us. So I'm just wondering what the advantage is you are thinking by blending two blends already blended, that neither are the blend the car manufacture recommends? I would also suggest you do a shorter oci.