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Just got into my 2013 GS350 Lux pack. Upon startup, engine light stayed on. Went to check if the gas cap was loose, and was able to tighten one click. Turned off the engine, then turned it back on to no avail.
Additionally, the car had ran about 90 miles on a new tank of gas. Eco monitor in the middle (usually shows a bar based off of how much the accelorator is depressed)
Noticed that the eco monitor display in the instrument cluster showed (OFF) even when the car was in Eco mode.
What could this mean? Does engine light mean the Eco monitor automatically shows off?
If you are DIY on any way, get an OBD2 scanner or dongle. Saves you a trip to the car parts store and as long as it's not a super cheap one, should be able to read all the modules. A lot of people here have Carista, for example.
If you are DIY on any way, get an OBD2 scanner or dongle. Saves you a trip to the car parts store and as long as it's not a super cheap one, should be able to read all the modules. A lot of people here have Carista, for example.
I read in a related thread that O'Reilly's or AutoZone will scan for free? Do you know if this is true? Is this the way I should go about this?
I know they used to. One of the auto parts place did stop doing the free reads (maybe Advanced Auto?) when I last went years ago, but I'm sure at least one of them still does it.
Was able to get the codes read... Codes are P0455 and P0441
Read this thread where one of the people posted about the PURGE VSV.
Checked the valve, the hose was properly fastened,
Then proceded to:
1) Take the hose off
2) Start the car
3) Feel for any vaccum...and no vaccum could be felt....which draws attention to two more points listed in that thread linked above...
Either could be
- Wire harness or connector between purge VSV and ECM (short to ground)
- ECM
Dont really know how two above mentioned points could go bad spontaneously....but maybe others know something I don't.
Then I proceded to check the Gas cap...seems fine...replacement is not too expensive so might go do that.
the purge valve is not open when you start and run the car. the purge valve is commanded on by the pcm when parameters for purging are met, cruising and to relieve excess fuel evap pressure from the tank. if you have a scan tool with bi-directional activation you can go into the parameter and turn on the purge valve and then go feel if you have vacuum on the side where the purge line connects.
Originally Posted by SATTRM101
Was able to get the codes read... Codes are P0455 and P0441
Read this thread where one of the people posted about the PURGE VSV.
Checked the valve, the hose was properly fastened,
Then proceded to:
1) Take the hose off
2) Start the car
3) Feel for any vaccum...and no vaccum could be felt....which draws attention to two more points listed in that thread linked above...
Either could be
- Wire harness or connector between purge VSV and ECM (short to ground)
- ECM
Dont really know how two above mentioned points could go bad spontaneously....but maybe others know something I don't.
Then I proceded to check the Gas cap...seems fine...replacement is not too expensive so might go do that.
So it seems the system checks for the conditions for this issue once after car has sat with engine off for 5 hours (up to an additional 4.5 hr if coolant is hotter than 95F). This is in regards to code P0455 for a "gross leak" in EVAP (usually a lose gas cap).
You mentioned your gas cap was possibly loose one click yesterday. Plus it sounds like you may have removed and replaced the hose that goes to the purge valve today? Try to go get the codes cleared (wherever you got them read) and see if condition comes back after two drive cycles (with 5 or so hours between).
the purge valve is not open when you start and run the car. the purge valve is commanded on by the pcm when parameters for purging are met, cruising and to relieve excess fuel evap pressure from the tank. if you have a scan tool with bi-directional activation you can go into the parameter and turn on the purge valve and then go feel if you have vacuum on the side where the purge line connects.
I do not have a scan tool....is there a way to diagnose with otherwise?
So it seems the system checks for the conditions for this issue once after car has sat with engine off for 5 hours (up to an additional 4.5 hr if coolant is hotter than 95F). This is in regards to code P0455 for a "gross leak" in EVAP (usually a lose gas cap).
You mentioned your gas cap was possibly loose one click yesterday. Plus it sounds like you may have removed and replaced the hose that goes to the purge valve today? Try to go get the codes cleared (wherever you got them read) and see if condition comes back after two drive cycles (with 5 or so hours between).
I have tried tightening the cap.....driven about a quarter tank over a couple drives and making sure to click the cap every time before starting.
Have a new fuel tank cap on the way.
When installed, would the codes go away by itself?
The next pressing issue in my mind is that...why is the eco monitor showing off? Does it happen automatically when there is a/any CheckEngine Light?
Theoretically the code should clear after 2 drive cycles of the condition being cleared. However, it would be sped up if you clear the code after you have the new gas cap installed then see if it comes back after 2 drive cycles.
I have tried tightening the cap.....driven about a quarter tank over a couple drives and making sure to click the cap every time before starting.
Have a new fuel tank cap on the way.
When installed, would the codes go away by itself?
The next pressing issue in my mind is that...why is the eco monitor showing off? Does it happen automatically when there is a/any CheckEngine Light?
Lots of time when you get a check engine light eco and other things like the cruise won't work. Just work on the one problem 1st. That will likely be ok then.
Go on Amazon or to Walmart and you can get a cheap basic scanner for as low as $25. That will give you the codes and let you clear them yourself. Saves time going to a auto store asking them. Also how miles miles on your GS?
Theoretically the code should clear after 2 drive cycles of the condition being cleared. However, it would be sped up if you clear the code after you have the new gas cap installed then see if it comes back after 2 drive cycles.
What exactly do you mean by a drive cylce? Is it a miles driven thing or a temperature thing?
Lots of time when you get a check engine light eco and other things like the cruise won't work. Just work on the one problem 1st. That will likely be ok then.
Go on Amazon or to Walmart and you can get a cheap basic scanner for as low as $25. That will give you the codes and let you clear them yourself. Saves time going to a auto store asking them. Also how miles miles on your GS?
I can confirm that the Cruise Control doesn't work either....
So it seems the system checks for the conditions for this issue once after car has sat with engine off for 5 hours (up to an additional 4.5 hr if coolant is hotter than 95F). This is in regards to code P0455 for a "gross leak" in EVAP (usually a lose gas cap)....
Originally Posted by SATTRM101
What exactly do you mean by a drive cylce? Is it a miles driven thing or a temperature thing?
In this case the system will not perform a check until engine is off and 5 hours have passed with engine off. If coolant is 95 degrees F or hotter, it'll wait another 2 hours. If coolant is 95 degrees or hotter, it'll wait another 2.5, then will perform the check regardless of temp. Assume 5 hours, unless you're living in the desert in summer.
It'll pressurize the system to check for leaks. If the engine is turned on before that, the counter starts over.
That is one cycle. Easier to just think of it as leave car sitting overnight.
There is an "accelerated" procedure you can start via techstream that takes half hour. But first step of that is to clear any codes.
Honestly, once you replace your gas cap, just have the code cleared. If going to the auto parts store or getting a code reader is too much of a hassle, you could disconnect the battery for 15 mins or so. I was refraining from suggesting that as some people run into (different) issues when reconnecting a battery.
In this case the system will not perform a check until engine is off and 5 hours have passed with engine off. If coolant is 95 degrees F or hotter, it'll wait another 2 hours. If coolant is 95 degrees or hotter, it'll wait another 2.5, then will perform the check regardless of temp. Assume 5 hours, unless you're living in the desert in summer.
It'll pressurize the system to check for leaks. If the engine is turned on before that, the counter starts over.
That is one cycle. Easier to just think of it as leave car sitting overnight.
There is an "accelerated" procedure you can start via techstream that takes half hour. But first step of that is to clear any codes.
Honestly, once you replace your gas cap, just have the code cleared. If going to the auto parts store or getting a code reader is too much of a hassle, you could disconnect the battery for 15 mins or so. I was refraining from suggesting that as some people run into (different) issues when reconnecting a battery.
Okay so if I am understanding correctly,
Car performs a check after engine is off for 5 hours....
However, if the coolant is (less than or greater than???) 95 F (at time of shut off or at 5hour mark???) then the car will wait another 2 hours before a check....
if the coolant is (less than or greater than???) 95 F (at time of shut off or at 5hour mark???) then the car will wait another 2.5 hours before a check.
08-27-23, 07:06 PM
Check Engine Light and Eco Monitor showing OFF
