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Well tbh, if you have access to 93 it's really not even necessary, the people who really need it are the 91 octane losers like myself lol.
It would only cause a lean burn if using too much ethanol, the ECM can correct for such a small change, 2-3 gallons of E85 in a whole tank of 93 will only raise it to 94-95 octane and is less than E25. Besides, you are getting a tune, so it will benefit from the higher octane. It is also a natural cleaner and will help clean carbon deposits. Its only corrosive if used in a high concentration and stored for months without use. It can effect certain rubbers and materials, but your Lexus has metal fuel lines and there have been many owners running ethanol blends for years with no issue.
It was also recommended by the head tuners of Sector7 and TunedbyLoi over octane booster.
No it is still good to bump the KCLV even if you have 93. Lots of 93 is crap anyway. The best 93 is Sunoco, then Shell. Octane Booster is proven to bump the KCLV if the combustion chamber is not highly carboned up. E85 is hard to find in lots of places now a days, and very expensive. The Lucas and others are on Walmart's shelves for $6 - $12.
The whole idea as I think you know, and have posted yourself other place is to get the most out of the Tune to let it do what the Tune changes do. Running the Octane booster in a tank or the E85 will accomplish the same at the end of the day. There's also facts about using E85 not being good due to if you don't have Injectors changed that are for the E85 injectors. E85/Race gas can also cause your a/f ration to run lean, you can look it up. The Octane Boosters are made for just a pour in on regular engines without injector changes and won't cause a leaner running condition. Most don't know that Race gas will cause a leaner condition. So why chance a offset of the Tune a/f? Loi likely map ranges his Tunes and knows that some E85 is ok. I don't think D3 maps for a E85 change of 2 gallons.
At the end of the day I do some what agree with you that E85 would increase the KCLV which is the main purpose, but it could also lean out possibly. But I really don't know, except that risk would not happen just running Octane Booster. On second thought if it's just a gallon or 2 of E85 it just might bring the KCLV up more but.....idk?
Reason also why I said is he has been running Sam & Costco. I have read that Costco is ok fuel comparable but that Sam Club is not the greatest. Now you got me thinking about going to find some Race Gas myself to see if my KCLV reading goes up some more on my onw D3 Performance Tune. lol!
Reason also why I said is he has been running Sam & Costco. I have read that Costco is ok fuel comparable but that Sam Club is not the greatest.
Also to note, living in Florida, gas stations “always should be up to the manufacturer standard”, well we got good old humidity here and the Sam’s club nearest to me was built recently enough that they go through so much fuel I typically always see the most consistent KNOCK value when I use it. Vs I rarely see the shell stations near me with high traffic. I am aware of ONE station in a 30-40 minute driving time that actually has E85. Palm Bay race track. I would LOVE to play around with that concept if it was genuinely just more practical to get it. Usually don’t need to be down that way. I’m sure it’s been talked about going into other local stations, but I just don’t see it happening soon.
draggy test performed this morning. Only performed this morning as a test, slightly damp out this morning too. trac off, Sport+, "Manual Shift" AKA shift at redline automatically.
Here is the Draggy Test performed this morning. Just a test run of it. Not a terrible time.
E85 is hard to find in lots of places now a days, and very expensive. The Lucas and others are on Walmart's shelves for $6 - $12.
The whole idea as I think you know, and have posted yourself other place is to get the most out of the Tune to let it do what the Tune changes do. Running the Octane booster in a tank or the E85 will accomplish the same at the end of the day. There's also facts about using E85 not being good due to if you don't have Injectors changed that are for the E85 injectors. E85/Race gas can also cause your a/f ration to run lean, you can look it up. The Octane Boosters are made for just a pour in on regular engines without injector changes and won't cause a leaner running condition. Most don't know that Race gas will cause a leaner condition. So why chance a offset of the Tune a/f? Loi likely map ranges his Tunes and knows that some E85 is ok. I don't think D3 maps for a E85 change of 2 gallons.
At the end of the day I do some what agree with you that E85 would increase the KCLV which is the main purpose, but it could also lean out possibly. But I really don't know, except that risk would not happen just running Octane Booster. On second thought if it's just a gallon or 2 of E85 it just might bring the KCLV up more but.....idk?
E85 is actually pretty cheap compared to high octane fuels and its definitely cheaper than just regular gas, and none of the negative traits you mentioned will happen at this low of a blend. 2 gallons in a 17 gallon tank is less than E20.
I'm sure it'll be fine whichever route OP takes. I just want to see what he can get on the Dragy now.
Ok, So I tested it the other day when it was dry. Finally hoping this weekend I can actually spend some time on it as other things and work have been taking up time.
Best I was able to do in about 3 runs was this 0-60. 5.49. I will flash back to stock today and test that time as well.
I was also able to get my KCLV up to 28.9! Which you can tell a nice different above 60mph when you get on it, feels much more lively to continue pulling.
I see a few things here. Did you do the Intake cleaners at all? If and when you do the 2nd run with the Tune back to stock I'll mention a few other things and also explain why in another post after.
Be very careful especially with the reload to stock. Be sure you battery is up and fully changed. It drains fast for some reason. A few different ppl Bricked their ECU and could not do anything in their car while trying to remove and reinstall back to Factory load. They had to remove the entire ECU and send to back to Dennis to get it fixed. Nice that you are sharing this with the 4th Gen GS forum.
I see a few things here. Did you do the Intake cleaners at all? If and when you do the 2nd run with the Tune back to stock I'll mention a few other things and also explain why in another post after.
Be very careful especially with the reload to stock. Be sure you battery is up and fully changed. It drains fast for some reason. A few different ppl Bricked their ECU and could not do anything in their car while trying to remove and reinstall back to Factory load. They had to remove the entire ECU and send to back to Dennis to get it fixed. Nice that you are sharing this with the 4th Gen GS forum.
I did do the octane booster and separate injector cleaner from Lucas. For that tank of premium, I only saw maximum of like 26.1 KCLV, when I filled up with the same premium again and then went and got 2 gallons e85 my values were those high high 28+. Not something I plan on doing habitually until there is a proper e85 or something equivalent out from them.
yes, definitely don’t want to break the car. I am always mindful of battery voltage and usage. Just had a new battery put in a few months ago from Lexus As well as I typically do a good, 20 minute drive home from work, and decided to flash then since it was charged on the way home.
Literally just got finished doing the stock runs. Will follow immediately with re-tuned on the same tank and variables. Result is not bad given stock number is 5.8 rated. More to follow…
STOCK⬇️⬇️⬇️
The next trick if you want to try is to, pull the Air box top off. There is a Carbon looking filter in there the Air Box top. Cut and pull it out. It won't hurt anything. It will let the Airbox and Intake see more air. Takes more advantage of the D3 Tune and it likes it. Make sure your Air Filter is clean too. The changes you make actually take about 50-100 miles to benefit from.
Are you starting your runs with Traction on, and letting the car shift itself? Is your Tune shifting you at 6800rpm or 7200rpm rev limit?
Also it's not just the KCLV better performance you are feeling. It's the Timing Advance built in the D3 Tune Map thats helping it stay so far adavanced. You are at least going in the right direction.
The next trick if you want to try is to, pull the Air box top off. There is a Carbon looking filter in there the Air Box top. Cut and pull it out. It won't hurt anything. It will let the Airbox and Intake see more air. Takes more advantage of the D3 Tune and it likes it. Make sure your Air Filter is clean too. The changes you make actually take about 50-100 miles to benefit from.
Are you starting your runs with Traction on, and letting the car shift itself? Is your Tune shifting you at 6800rpm or 7200rpm rev limit?
Also it's not just the KCLV better performance you are feeling. It's the Timing Advance built in the D3 Tune Map thats helping it stay so far adavanced. You are at least going in the right direction.
So retuned and numbers are now closer to 5.55 0-60 which is definitely good. I was able to do some high gear pulls by drawing out 6-7-8 and got my KCLV back up to 28.8 for that run.
I am doing the runs with traction off in M to let the gears ring out to 6800. Supposedly my ECU was never updated by any dealer, Just meaning that they didn’t see a stock file immediately for my car they could tune. so I still have the first revision of Toyota default for this refresh. So, my manual mode never really allows true manual to work, which I just haven’t bothered to get with D3 and re-test some changes with them. They told me that I could work with them to get it implemented properly for “true manual mode”.
in regards to the carbon filter, I remember doing the same mod on my IS 250.
So retuned and numbers are now closer to 5.55 0-60 which is definitely good. I was able to do some high gear pulls by drawing out 6-7-8 and got my KCLV back up to 28.8 for that run.
I am doing the runs with traction off in M to let the gears ring out to 6800. Supposedly my ECU was never updated by any dealer, Just meaning that they didn’t see a stock file immediately for my car they could tune. so I still have the first revision of Toyota default for this refresh. So, my manual mode never really allows true manual to work, which I just haven’t bothered to get with D3 and re-test some changes with them. They told me that I could work with them to get it implemented properly for “true manual mode”.
in regards to the carbon filter, I remember doing the same mod on my IS 250.
Immediately retuned numbers ⬇️⬇️⬇️
Good you know you knew about the load high gear pulls. I was going to tell you but was thinking it would be like some don't think it works. But it def does.
So I would do Trac ON. Let it shift itself, no man shift. You may want to do some hard pulls in auto shift. Seems if you do it a few times the Tunes learns the 6800 shifts. Are you spining wheels from a standstill? If not then power brake slightly to get a better TC lock start. Also be aware that each time you redo the Tune even if the KCLV is high it takes like 100 miles plus to ready dial in again. Also good you know the Air box materials remove trick.
Air Filter clean? Saw some test on high flow filters. They do filter more and make some hp if clean. When they get very dirtly they actually can flow less that stock and be restrictive.
It definitely works when you can see it in real time rise after a pull in 7th.
So for my 2016 with the 8 speed in "manual", I am letting the car shift, It actually gets to the 6800rpm redline and shifts automatically, I CANNOT stop it from auto upshifting unless I am spinning tire, Trac on or off it still shifts. I will retest after a few days to let the tune push it back up.
Air filter is clean. I have a standard filter in there now. I had the K&N and even cleaning it regualry per schedule, I noticed more dirt in my intake vs before, charcoal filter or not.
10-11-23, 06:04 PM
