(rear) inner tire wear
01-27-24, 10:39 AM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
(rear) inner tire wear
Anyone experience this? Any solutions? I just had my car on jack stands and the inside of tire is basically showing metal bands, outside still got a decent amount of meat. This is both sides. Ironically I was installing the front RC-F lca bushing to combat the front tireinner wear.
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jgscott (01-27-24)
01-27-24, 04:59 PM
#3
Driver
Thread Starter
Its going this week, figured it was the toe angle, just like the front. I have to do some digging I remember someone adjusting the front with the RC-F LCA bushings and getting rid of the inner tire wear up fornt mostly.
01-28-24, 08:50 AM
#4
Intermediate
There are several different manufacturers that make replacement, adjustable, upper control arms for our cars. They bring the camber from -1.5 to -2° to -0.5° more easily to lessen the rear tire wear.
You just got to get whatever alignment shop onboard with using them and adjusting the camber as you want.
I'll be getting a set for my car this year at some point but I can do the adjustment at my own house.
You just got to get whatever alignment shop onboard with using them and adjusting the camber as you want.
I'll be getting a set for my car this year at some point but I can do the adjustment at my own house.
Last edited by Mangsailor; 01-30-24 at 08:23 AM.
01-28-24, 01:39 PM
#5
I have been meaning to ask about this myself too. I am about to possibly get the SPC ones? My biggest concern is how good are the quality of the bushings? I don't want Poly that will make noise, and the Megan Racing ones are known to blow out and tear the bushing very fast.
01-29-24, 07:36 PM
#7
I have been meaning to ask about this myself too. I am about to possibly get the SPC ones? My biggest concern is how good are the quality of the bushings? I don't want Poly that will make noise, and the Megan Racing ones are known to blow out and tear the bushing very fast.
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01-29-24, 09:47 PM
#9
01-30-24, 08:47 AM
#10
I have GSF lower arm bush in front and swift springs for more than a year now and my rear tires wear is very even(1st set changed because overinflated hence premature wear in the center). I'm on my second set of rear tires for 2 months now and the wear is very even. I was worried the swift spring would caused inner rear tire wear so i bought MOOQ rear upper adjustable arms from Rock Auto 10 months ago but never had them install.....don't think i'll even need to.
01-30-24, 12:54 PM
#12
Our cars are rear toe adjustable. However, the static factory toe setting is based on a factory new car, and as I'm sure you are aware, as the car moves down the road the, the suspension bushings will compress and the dynamic toe will be lower (farther out) than what was set during the alignment. Lexus already uses soft bushings (hence the higher durometer GS-F front bushing "upgrade" as both a performance mod and a solution to front inner tire wear), and those bushings become even softer with age, use, and exposure to the elements. It is an unpopular opinion, but suspension bushings are a wear item and should probably be replaced before 100,000 miles, which comes at the unfortunate cost of replacing entire suspension arms, as the bushings are bonded thereto.
An alignment is only as good as the rack that that it is performed on and the tech doing the alignment. Alignment racks need to be calibrated at least annually, and few shops care to pay to do it that often. Alignment racks need to be level, and are usually installed as such, but I've watched techs raise my car on the alignment rack and then not settle it onto the level stops before starting the alignment, which is both extremely sketchy for their own safety and will give you completely incorrect readings on the screen. If you zero the toe with one side of the car higher than the other, neither side will be aligned correctly.
EDIT: Clarification - the rubber of bushings becomes more brittle, degrading their control over the sleeve and ability to maintain the alignment/arc of travel. The effect is the same as if a much softer bushing were used - increased dynamic alignment change when the car is in motion.
Last edited by GrandSedanFan; 01-31-24 at 07:10 AM.
01-30-24, 02:04 PM
#13
I have seen these complaints but never experienced them, but I am also an alignment nut. Inner tire wear is due to toe, typically toe out. Camber does not dramatically increase inner tire wear; it will cause tapered wear across the whole tire, more pronounced towards the inside.
Our cars are rear toe adjustable. However, the static factory toe setting is based on a factory new car, and as I'm sure you are aware, as the car moves down the road the, the suspension bushings will compress and the dynamic toe will be lower (farther out) than what was set during the alignment. Lexus already uses soft bushings (hence the higher durometer GS-F front bushing "upgrade" as both a performance mod and a solution to front inner tire wear), and those bushings become even softer with age, use, and exposure to the elements. It is an unpopular opinion, but suspension bushings are a wear item and should probably be replaced before 100,000 miles, which comes at the unfortunate cost of replacing entire suspension arms, as the bushings are bonded thereto.
An alignment is only as good as the rack that that it is performed on and the tech doing the alignment. Alignment racks need to be calibrated at least annually, and few shops care to pay to do it that often. Alignment racks need to be level, and are usually installed as such, but I've watched techs raise my car on the alignment rack and then not settle it onto the level stops before starting the alignment, which is both extremely sketchy for their own safety and will give you completely incorrect readings on the screen. If you zero the toe with one side of the car higher than the other, neither side will be aligned correctly.
Our cars are rear toe adjustable. However, the static factory toe setting is based on a factory new car, and as I'm sure you are aware, as the car moves down the road the, the suspension bushings will compress and the dynamic toe will be lower (farther out) than what was set during the alignment. Lexus already uses soft bushings (hence the higher durometer GS-F front bushing "upgrade" as both a performance mod and a solution to front inner tire wear), and those bushings become even softer with age, use, and exposure to the elements. It is an unpopular opinion, but suspension bushings are a wear item and should probably be replaced before 100,000 miles, which comes at the unfortunate cost of replacing entire suspension arms, as the bushings are bonded thereto.
An alignment is only as good as the rack that that it is performed on and the tech doing the alignment. Alignment racks need to be calibrated at least annually, and few shops care to pay to do it that often. Alignment racks need to be level, and are usually installed as such, but I've watched techs raise my car on the alignment rack and then not settle it onto the level stops before starting the alignment, which is both extremely sketchy for their own safety and will give you completely incorrect readings on the screen. If you zero the toe with one side of the car higher than the other, neither side will be aligned correctly.
Yes I kniow the machines need to be calibrated. Normally more often than once per year dpending on usage. Toyota and most dealers have contracts that do this on a scheduelds regular basis, is why I use the Dealer. They also do the Zero point calibration and Yaw and Rake also with Techstream.
02-02-24, 05:32 AM
#14
Lexus Test Driver
I have seen these complaints but never experienced them, but I am also an alignment nut. Inner tire wear is due to toe, typically toe out. Camber does not dramatically increase inner tire wear; it will cause tapered wear across the whole tire, more pronounced towards the inside.
Our cars are rear toe adjustable. However, the static factory toe setting is based on a factory new car, and as I'm sure you are aware, as the car moves down the road the, the suspension bushings will compress and the dynamic toe will be lower (farther out) than what was set during the alignment. Lexus already uses soft bushings (hence the higher durometer GS-F front bushing "upgrade" as both a performance mod and a solution to front inner tire wear), and those bushings become even softer with age, use, and exposure to the elements. It is an unpopular opinion, but suspension bushings are a wear item and should probably be replaced before 100,000 miles, which comes at the unfortunate cost of replacing entire suspension arms, as the bushings are bonded thereto.
An alignment is only as good as the rack that that it is performed on and the tech doing the alignment. Alignment racks need to be calibrated at least annually, and few shops care to pay to do it that often. Alignment racks need to be level, and are usually installed as such, but I've watched techs raise my car on the alignment rack and then not settle it onto the level stops before starting the alignment, which is both extremely sketchy for their own safety and will give you completely incorrect readings on the screen. If you zero the toe with one side of the car higher than the other, neither side will be aligned correctly.
EDIT: Clarification - the rubber of bushings becomes more brittle, degrading their control over the sleeve and ability to maintain the alignment/arc of travel. The effect is the same as if a much softer bushing were used - increased dynamic alignment change when the car is in motion.
Our cars are rear toe adjustable. However, the static factory toe setting is based on a factory new car, and as I'm sure you are aware, as the car moves down the road the, the suspension bushings will compress and the dynamic toe will be lower (farther out) than what was set during the alignment. Lexus already uses soft bushings (hence the higher durometer GS-F front bushing "upgrade" as both a performance mod and a solution to front inner tire wear), and those bushings become even softer with age, use, and exposure to the elements. It is an unpopular opinion, but suspension bushings are a wear item and should probably be replaced before 100,000 miles, which comes at the unfortunate cost of replacing entire suspension arms, as the bushings are bonded thereto.
An alignment is only as good as the rack that that it is performed on and the tech doing the alignment. Alignment racks need to be calibrated at least annually, and few shops care to pay to do it that often. Alignment racks need to be level, and are usually installed as such, but I've watched techs raise my car on the alignment rack and then not settle it onto the level stops before starting the alignment, which is both extremely sketchy for their own safety and will give you completely incorrect readings on the screen. If you zero the toe with one side of the car higher than the other, neither side will be aligned correctly.
EDIT: Clarification - the rubber of bushings becomes more brittle, degrading their control over the sleeve and ability to maintain the alignment/arc of travel. The effect is the same as if a much softer bushing were used - increased dynamic alignment change when the car is in motion.
Also, throw into the mix two additional other factors - the front of car is typically heavier, and when turning to the right you're often braking at the same time too which essentially throws weight loading to that left tire.
So, there are a number of conditions or actions that will tend to cause heavier tread wear on the outside edge of the left front tire even when you have a perfect alignment.
Now you know!
Last edited by bclexus; 02-02-24 at 08:56 AM. Reason: orthography
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