GS - 4th Gen (2013-2020) Discussion about the 2013 and up GS models

Does anyone have any idea what this sound means from the engine?

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Old 07-01-24, 03:54 PM
  #16  
bclexus
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Originally Posted by WBenz
I let the shop do it. They charge me 1850$ . I live In Upper NY state ..
Will pick tomorrow car.
Btw our Lexus been in shops more then my w210 Benz.. we bought Lexus brand new in 2017. Idk why Lexus has bad things.. it's makes me confuse
​​in the past AC were broken also...
So anyway thank you guys so much for your input .
i appreciate for repsonses.
That should have been a 2.5 hour job costing less than half that $1,850 - more like $600-$750.

You'll get pushback saying Lexus vehicles are in the shop more than BMW...
Old 07-01-24, 04:03 PM
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Lexus tech told me it's 4.5 hours of work and it's not easy...
yes i had 2001 E430 4matic with 145k on the clock with original pump and etc... btw battery were enormous life in my Benz.. Mercedes Genuine battery was 14 years old when it failed. Maybe because in was located under the seat and didn't get much heat..who knows..
yeah even my wife was frustrated.. she said she expect this kind fail form German car but never from Lexus ..our Lexus is 71k miles.
Old 07-01-24, 04:39 PM
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Btw just wonder, what kind of equipment need in order to evacuate the freon from a Lexus? I just thought myself maybe someday will get myself and just keep it..
Old 07-01-24, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by WBenz
I let the shop do it. They charge me 1850$ . I live In Upper NY state ..
Will pick tomorrow car.
Btw our Lexus been in shops more then my w210 Benz.. we bought Lexus brand new in 2017. Idk why Lexus has bad things.. it's makes me confuse
​​in the past AC were broken also...
So anyway thank you guys so much for your input .
i appreciate for repsonses.
If possible, and you are interested, ask them to show you the bad pump. Spin the shaft and see if it grinds a little.
Good luck.
Old 07-02-24, 02:14 PM
  #20  
WBenz
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Wow ... I just pick the car from the shop and they charge me 1530$ because of less labor work.
Omg.. he told me that when he quted me 1850$ first time because in labor manual it was stated that you have to remove AC compressor , but when mechanic started work ion the car that realise that YOU DONT HAVE TO REMOVE ALL THAT... OMG.
I could done myself to save money..only reason I wne to shop because of that.
I got instructions for Justanswer service...and what interesting I ask mechanic on Justanswer - Are you sure I have to remove AC ? Is anyway to bypass? And he answered. No baypas , you have to remove AC because Manual says it..
Guys this is VERY IMPORTANT ..WE SHULD POST ON FORUM ... that GS does not have to remove AC.

Cheers
Alex
Old 07-02-24, 02:55 PM
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How many miles on this GS?

Should have just been able to move the compressor w/o unhooking lines and do water pump.
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Old 07-02-24, 03:23 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by WBenz
Wow ... I just pick the car from the shop and they charge me 1530$ because of less labor work.
Omg.. he told me that when he quted me 1850$ first time because in labor manual it was stated that you have to remove AC compressor , but when mechanic started work ion the car that realise that YOU DONT HAVE TO REMOVE ALL THAT... OMG.
I could done myself to save money..only reason I wne to shop because of that.
I got instructions for Justanswer service...and what interesting I ask mechanic on Justanswer - Are you sure I have to remove AC ? Is anyway to bypass? And he answered. No baypas , you have to remove AC because Manual says it..
Guys this is VERY IMPORTANT ..WE SHULD POST ON FORUM ... that GS does not have to remove AC.

Cheers
Alex
I think it was only you that said the A/C compressor and refrigerant lines needed to be removed.

Most Indy shops would have replaced the water pump with an OE water pump and installed a new OE serpentine belt for about half what you were charged.

I strongly suspect your concern with a noise prompted you to have the water pump replaced - spending $1,500 - when there is no need in doing so...

That 'Just Answer' service is not worth much and the answers provided aren't always to be trusted.

Last edited by bclexus; 07-04-24 at 08:11 AM. Reason: orthography
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Old 07-02-24, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jgscott
How many miles on this GS?

Should have just been able to move the compressor w/o unhooking lines and do water pump.
Exactly!
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Old 07-02-24, 05:55 PM
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Yes I agree..
Old 07-02-24, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jgscott
How many miles on this GS?

Should have just been able to move the compressor w/o unhooking lines and do water pump.
77k miles on the car
Old 07-02-24, 06:17 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by WBenz
77k miles on the car
Recommended coolant change interval for the GS350 is 100,000 miles.

Your fixation on a completely unknown and unimportant noise has caused you to replace a perfectly good working water pump long before it needed to be replaced and needlessly throwing away $1,500.


You can check and inspect things all you want, but most non-wear type parts will work until they don't! That is when you replace parts - not before. This is a very important lesson people can learn.


It's always amazed me how some people will have their home's HVAC system inspected or 'tuned-up' twice a year - before summer and before winter. The HVAC tech will come out in spring and check the amperage of the condenser fan and the amperage of the blower fan, then check to make sure the compressor contactor works, then he inspects the starting capacitors for the motors to see if the capacitor's case is bulging - indicating it should be replaced, then he checks the high and low pressure refrigerant (and maybe claims to have added a pound or two of unneeded expensive refrigerant), then maybe he squirts a little water from a garden hose on the condenser cabinet - then he does the only really needed thing that is beneficial by replacing the return air filter in the air handler... Then, with a smile on his face he tells the customer that everything 'looks good' and is working perfectly as it should. Little do most people know - - he hasn't done anything worthwhile except to replace the return air filter. The HVAC tech most likely doesn't even make sure the condensation line isn't almost clogged-up with algae - because the homeowner hasn't called in to say the air conditioner isn't cooling properly.

This is a perfect example of how worthless it is to check or inspect non-wear type parts (or to replace parts) that are working as they should. People in-the-know with knowledge and smart people with common sense will only call for service when a part actually fails - which then causes the machine or appliance not to work as it should. People with mechanical engineering wisdom or background know better than to have non-wear type parts - that are working as they are designed to work - checked or inspected or replaced unnecessarily - - because doing do is understood to be fruitless and a total waste of both time and money.

To further make my point - the required FAA annual 'conformity and air worthiness' inspection of an airplane's engine (i.e. powerplant) does not entail replacing non-wear type parts that are working as designed. So, why would a clear-thinking automobile owner with sound judgment think it was a good idea to replace a non-wear type part when it is working as designed?

To draw a comparison - a home refrigerator or freezer is very similar to a residential central A/C system. When was the last time you had your perfectly good working refrigerator serviced? The answer is almost certainly 'Never'. Same for servicing your car's working A/C - Never. You will likely replace the cabin air filter in the car probably once one a year and vacuum the lint and dust off the back of the refrigerator's condenser fins maybe once every 10 years or so - - and you will only call for service when (wait for it) a part literally stops working!

Last edited by bclexus; 07-03-24 at 10:07 AM. Reason: orthography
Old 07-02-24, 07:08 PM
  #27  
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Unless you saw Coolant leaking. That noise could have been the Belt and/or Idler pulley.
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Old 07-03-24, 12:11 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by WBenz
Wow ... I just pick the car from the shop and they charge me 1530$ because of less labor work.
Omg.. he told me that when he quted me 1850$ first time because in labor manual it was stated that you have to remove AC compressor , but when mechanic started work ion the car that realise that YOU DONT HAVE TO REMOVE ALL THAT... OMG.
I could done myself to save money..only reason I wne to shop because of that.
I got instructions for Justanswer service...and what interesting I ask mechanic on Justanswer - Are you sure I have to remove AC ? Is anyway to bypass? And he answered. No baypas , you have to remove AC because Manual says it..
Guys this is VERY IMPORTANT ..WE SHULD POST ON FORUM ... that GS does not have to remove AC.

Cheers
Alex
Someone got mixed up: to replace the drive belt tensioner assembly, the A/C compressor must be removed from the mounting bracket. The A/C does not need to be touched when replacing a water pump. Typical labor for replacing a GS water pump is 3.5 hours.

BTW, the water pump in your video has very noisy bearings. That can't be ignored, if the water pump shaft were to seize while driving on the highway, the engine could overheat and be damaged before you reach an exit.
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Old 07-03-24, 07:29 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Nevada
Someone got mixed up: to replace the drive belt tensioner assembly, the A/C compressor must be removed from the mounting bracket. The A/C does not need to be touched when replacing a water pump. Typical labor for replacing a GS water pump is 3.5 hours.

BTW, the water pump in your video has very noisy bearings. That can't be ignored, if the water pump shaft were to seize while driving on the highway, the engine could overheat and be damaged before you reach an exit.
Spot on. And the OP would not have the 1st engine to have a water pump go out at 70K. Don't ask me how I know...
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Old 07-03-24, 12:05 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
Spot on. And the OP would not have the 1st engine to have a water pump go out at 70K. Don't ask me how I know...
@JeffKeryk - What symptom(s) did you experience with the water pump that led to it being replaced at 70k miles?


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