insamiety

It's definitely not metal, so it seems to be plastic. I ordered the adapters above and will be playing with them this weekend. I'll keep yall updated!!

insamiety

Part of me is thinking about taking the redneck route and using some high temp foil tape to just tape the damn thing in hahaha

bclexus

If that's what you're going to do I recommend using Gorilla Tape and/or T-Rex Tape. They are both super strong and long-lasting, but I'd protect it with HVAC Tape to prevent moisture intrusion.

insamiety

I was planning on using Gorilla tape, but I was a little concerned with the temps. Instead I was looking to get high temp HVAC tape like you would use for a heater flue.

LeX2K

No tape will hold that.

bclexus

Probably not! Tape is unlikely to apply enough sustained compression force on the lamp holding spring

I would think about using rebar tie-wire to put a twisted wire clamp on the lamp holding spring to the bracket - or use stainless steel cable ties to strap the wire clamp to the bracket.

Also, don't discount the use of J-B Weld. J-B Weld is extremely impressive J-B Weld can be used to repair many different materials including metal, wood, plastic, ceramic, fiberglass, brick, concrete and much more.

I think the bracket material is likely a fibrous material like fiberglass, so JB Weld may work well if the parts are prepped properly and the JB Weld is applied correctly.

LeX2K

J-B Weld fails over time when heated. Example: circuit boards that have epoxy covering up board work (sometimes to hide "secret" mods) a heat gun and the epoxy falls off.

bclexus

The J-B 'KwikWeld' label says it is good to 300°F. Then there is J-B 'ExhaustWeld'...

The J-B 'ExhaustWeld' is a fiberglass wrap that can withstand temperatures up to 1100°F and can be used on exhaust manifolds, tail pipes, and other parts. It is designed to structurally repair almost any part on a vehicle's exhaust system, which reaches extremely high temperatures.

Or J-B Weld 'ExtremeHeat' is available too that can withstand 2,400°F.

LeX2K

They can claim whatever they want in practice heat breaks the bond. I tried using J-B Weld on a cracked thread/boss that holds the alternator it lasted for a bit then failed. Also at 2400°F epoxy will turn to powder they are straight up lying. Titanium melts at 1600 degrees.

bclexus

Maybe J-B Weld's Chip Hanson should be on the lookout for false advertising lawsuits.

Wonder why that hasn't already happened with the company pulling product off shelves and places like Amazon.com?

LeX2K

You actually think J-B Weld has a higher temperature failure point than titanium lol. There are thousands of products with false advertising for example LED bulb brightness or stereo component ratings etc. etc.

bclexus

No, it doesn't.

Your understanding that 1,600°F is the melting point for Titanium is not correct...

Titanium has a melting point of 3,034°F





J-B Weld 'ExtremeHeat' can withstand continuous heat to 2,400°F.

EAST

Here's another alternative someone did on an Infinity. They used wire to grab both clips. Post 4.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/body-in...headlight.html

bclexus

That's the method I prefer, but using something like 16ga. rebar tie-wire, or stainless-steel straps or better yet; use stainless-steel wire (images far below) to keep the bracket's spring clamp ends compressed solidly so the spring clamp holds the lamp bulb's body tightly.

Here's the image you are referring to EAST:



I've used this stranded stainless-steel line wire in 10lb, 30lb and 50lb strengths with crimp sleeves (or tie a knot) for various projects. It's available up to 200lb strength from Amazon.com.

bclexus

You most likely used the wrong product for the job. You probably mistakenly used JB Weld's epoxy.

Unlike J-B Weld epoxy, J-B Weld ExtremeHeat can be drilled, machined, thread-cutting tapped or sanded once it's fully cured.

Like so many product applications, proper preparation and mixing and curing is essential for a favorable outcome.