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oh i dont mind at all it was $1350 including the $250 to remove the old tint I also did the moon roof as well. I found another Xpel prime installer in the area using Xpels’ website and he quoted me $650 for removal + application of all windows + windshield no moon roof. But I decided to go with Mr Tint due to the 500+ 5 star reviews vs the other places ~50 not perfect reviews and peace of mind of knowing they’ll be around if I ever need to use that lifetime warranty. I can upload the receipt later. But in terms of pricing a place in Sacramento actually quoted me about $100 more than Mr Tint so I guess NorCal prices really are inflated compared to LA and Texas
That's also the main reason why I chose 35% all around because I have black interior and the rear sunshade is always up during daytime, originally I was thinking of getting something a little darker for the rear windshield. With flaxen and other lighter colors, I would have probably gotten something a little darker. I think anything less than 15% is just too dark at night especially if you have them on the front side windows. I know some even have 30% or less tinted windshields, I think that is dangerous.
@Wincer94 that's the truth - sometimes i feel like my 35% is really dark for night driving tho. In the summer, I tend to have my front windows during day/night driving. Once the season shifts to fall/winter and my windows are always up, it feels like its hard to see out.
Went with Llumar Air 80 Blue all the way around including the sunroof. Does very well at cutting the heat.
I guess your climate, and summers, are not as intense as Florida, so maybe you can get by with a clear tint. Specs on the Llumar Air are quite good... protects your interior from much of the UV and I'm sure makes driving way more comfortable.
I guess your climate, and summers, are not as intense as Florida, so maybe you can get by with a clear tint. Specs on the Llumar Air are quite good... protects your interior from much of the UV and I'm sure makes driving way more comfortable.
It gets plenty hot here in St. Louis I just didn't want to do dark tint on this car. I've traditionally done 15% but to me dark thin would have given this car such a monotone look and I didn't want that.
Got my new truck tinted with new to me Rayno S7 ceramic film, my long time shop switched from 3M. I couldn't do all windows dark due to CA restrictions though. So far picked following selection and very happy... Vehicle interior don't heat as much since windshield tinted, dashboard just warm in hot 100'F+ days, A/C feels cold after 4 mins ride.
Also keep in mind that from the exterior, a white car always appears to have darker tint (esp to law enforcement's naked eye). The interior color matters as well. With the rear sunshade up, its almost impossible to see through the rear glass tinted at 35%. Because the tint laws are a bit strict in my area, if i had to do it over, i'd probably go with 50% so as not to draw too much attention from the cops.
Also not sure if your state's inspection stations will fail you if your tint is too dark (something else to keep in mind).
Here are some shots of my car with FormulaOne Pinnacle Tint at 35% on rear windshield and all side windows. Note: I have a lighter interior (Flaxen):
Nice pics, I'm thinking 30 front and 15 rear at the moment.
3M Crystalline 90% on my 2019 GS F. I've always had dark tint on my cars but wanted to keep the GS F as stock looking as possible. I got what I wanted. The car looks exactly like the way it did when it left the showroom.
I am a repeat customer of the shop, where I got PPF for my GS F and my previous 2016 GS F. I told the installer to not touch the door panels (though he said that's what it takes to achieve a better result) but he still did an outstanding job. I did, however, noticed that he used a razor knife to trim off a piece of rubber on the quarter window seal:
Even though it's just a 45 degree angle V-shape cutout for the film to go under to avoid light gap and possible contamination, I wasn't too thrilled about having a piece of my car being cut. I wonder if he could've just pushed the film to the edge of the seal instead. Did you all have this rubber trim shaved by your installer as well?
Sorry I know it's the OCD side of me talking but it's one of these things that can't be unseen once I've seen it.
Interesting. As far as I know, door panels were not removed, nor were any cuts or modifications made to my 2013 GS350 when tint was installed. I specifically asked if door panels would be removed and the answer was no.
The cut is not really visible unless you know exactly where to look. It's a small gap under the seal after having 1/16th inch of rubber being cut from the rubber.
I called a few high-end places here in So Cal and they all said they would at minimum "pop open" the door panels to have a better installation. I also browsed through the tinters' forums/FB pages and found out that not all tinters agree on whether door panels should be removed. Most however, defend the practice of trimming rubber seal as an "industry standard." Not sure why but some were rather defensive and hostile when being asked by customers why they do so.
Jon
Originally Posted by CottageChz
Interesting. As far as I know, door panels were not removed, nor were any cuts or modifications made to my 2013 GS350 when tint was installed. I specifically asked if door panels would be removed and the answer was no.
Here is my contribution. 2017 Caviar exterior with black interior. 35% on the sides and 20% on the rear windshield. It has basically rained all week here, so the lighting reflects that. I'm pretty sure the installer removed the door panels. From where I was sitting, I heard the sound of power tools and the sound of him pounding something together.
Very sharp looking GS! Thanks for your contribution.
I thought I would provide some additional information here; I’ve learned quite a few things about window tinting ever since I decided to go with 3M Crystalline for my GS F. For those who are curious or concerned about how window film is applied, here are some of the most common methods:
Popping open (but not removing) door panels to feed the film from the bottom first.
Keeping the door panels intact and apply the film from the top first.
Removing the door panels completely, exposing the windows to get a better coverage.
Removing the door panels and the quarter windows; this is the most hardcore methodology favored by tinters who want the best result.
Based on what I’ve read up so far, any of the above-mentioned methods is acceptable and there is no consensus on which of these is the most effective methodology. Some tinters prefer hand cutting the window film for a better custom fit while others use the pre cut film to avoid damaging the exterior weather seals.
In addition to the above, there’s a split opinion on whether gaskets or rubber seals should be cut or trimmed when tinting a fixed quarter window. A great majority of tinters have no problem trimming/slicing off a piece of rubber gasket off the car; they consider this practice an “industry standard” even if this is done without the car owner’s consent or knowledge. A few of them will be offended if questioned about doing this. Some even go as far as saying that’s why customers are not allowed in the shop’s working area. If you already have your windows tinted, look at the vertical rubber strip in the quarter glass area and there’s a chance that it has been trimmed. There are, however, 10-15% of tinters who consider this practice vandalism and resort to either removing the window glass or tucking the film under the seal.
In short, I think it’s pretty apparent that when it comes to getting your car tinted, most installers will prioritize what they think works the best, regardless of whether or not their methodology alters the car’s original state. I understand that most people don’t think much about how window tinting works, especially if it’s done for their leased cars. However, there are definitely people who don’t want their door panels removed or rubber gaskets cut. For those of you who care, I think there’s nothing wrong with asking your installer whether he/she pops door panels or trim the rubber seal to avoid light gaps. After all, it’s your car and whoever that works on it should not be the one who decides to alter it without your consent.
Have fun!
Jon
Originally Posted by WNYX
Here is my contribution. 2017 Caviar exterior with black interior. 35% on the sides and 20% on the rear windshield. It has basically rained all week here, so the lighting reflects that. I'm pretty sure the installer removed the door panels. From where I was sitting, I heard the sound of power tools and the sound of him pounding something together.
07-16-20, 11:19 AM
