GS - 4th Gen (2013-2020) Discussion about the 2013 and up GS models

Rear License Plate Screws

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Old 05-03-16, 12:24 PM
  #16  
jcifuentes
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Originally Posted by tiguy99
Have this problem now...gonna try something like vampliers...pb blaster loosened the bolt. Now it just turns but won't lift up
You might need to grab a flat head screw driver and put it underneath the lip of the screw. As you turn counter clockwise, make sure to lift up and it should come out of place. Hope this helps.
Old 05-03-16, 12:44 PM
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imrankh24
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Originally Posted by marjenmill
The GS is shipped with masking tape over the license plate nuts and if the dealer just screwed the bolts in with the tape there instead of taking the tape off first, the screws will end up stripping.

Happened to me (dumb dealer).

They fixed mine - probably just re-tapped the holes.

Liquid Wrench should help or take it to the dealer. Once you get them off, put some anti-seize on the bolts before putting them in.
So you're saying the yellow pieces of tape are not supposed to be there after installation?
Old 05-03-16, 08:52 PM
  #18  
tiguy99
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Originally Posted by jcifuentes
You might need to grab a flat head screw driver and put it underneath the lip of the screw. As you turn counter clockwise, make sure to lift up and it should come out of place. Hope this helps.
Hey guys. Tried that...problem is it didn't work. Pliers pulling up while trusting didn't work either.

Was sure both methods would have done the trick.
The bolt just turns but doesn't lift no matter the pressure

Don't wanna spend 30 on the official vampliers.
What else do you guys recommend?

Got all the screws off except this last one and it's driving me nuts
Old 05-04-16, 07:52 AM
  #19  
lamikela1
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Have you considered removing the trunk liner and getting to them from inside the trunk? There may be enough screw showing to push on it from inside the trunk while turning it.
Old 05-04-16, 10:57 AM
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rld14
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The problem is that the cars themselves rust, the exposed screw threads are exposed steel and corrode hence the seizing.

Your best bet to get the screws out without snapping them off (And then you have to drill them out which is a real PITA, ask me how I know.. we have to do it 5+ times a month) is to soak them with Kroil.

Kroil is the best substance on earth to unfreeze rusted stuff. WD40, in comparison, is like using water. Take it from someone who works on antique cars!

To keep this from happening in the future I suggest squirting a drop of Kroil in there and coating the threads with some anti-seize paste.
Old 05-04-16, 11:24 AM
  #21  
jcifuentes
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Originally Posted by rld14
The problem is that the cars themselves rust, the exposed screw threads are exposed steel and corrode hence the seizing.

Your best bet to get the screws out without snapping them off (And then you have to drill them out which is a real PITA, ask me how I know.. we have to do it 5+ times a month) is to soak them with Kroil.

Kroil is the best substance on earth to unfreeze rusted stuff. WD40, in comparison, is like using water. Take it from someone who works on antique cars!

To keep this from happening in the future I suggest squirting a drop of Kroil in there and coating the threads with some anti-seize paste.
I will take your advise and do this before I run into this issue. Thank you for the helpful information.
Old 05-08-16, 06:37 PM
  #22  
tiguy99
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Popped my trunk liner clips off and accessed the bolt behind the license plate.

Using two wrenches I was able to remove the stubborn rusted nut quite easily.

Finally got the old plate off.
Thanks guys
Old 05-09-16, 08:45 AM
  #23  
lamikela1
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Glad that worked!!!
Old 05-09-16, 09:30 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by lamikela1
Glad that worked!!!
Thanks!
We need a thanks button on this forum ASAP

You guys are awesome
Old 05-09-16, 10:44 AM
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imrankh24
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Do I peel off the masking tape pieces before installing the plate on the back?
Old 05-09-16, 01:41 PM
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lamikela1
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You should at least clear it away from the holes so that it does not clog up the screws. If not you may strip the screws if you have to remove them later.
Old 05-09-16, 02:01 PM
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imrankh24
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Originally Posted by lamikela1
You should at least clear it away from the holes so that it does not clog up the screws. If not you may strip the screws if you have to remove them later.
Alright I will make sure to do that cause the dealer just screwed it right in through the tape
Old 05-09-16, 02:11 PM
  #28  
lamikela1
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Yeah, I don't know why but that tape is pretty tough. I guess they want to be sure that no water gets in there before delivery. I cleaned it off my other cars completely but you have to use an adhesive remover as it's really sticky stuff. I did not do that on my current Lexus.
Old 05-09-16, 06:01 PM
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imrankh24
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Originally Posted by lamikela1
Yeah, I don't know why but that tape is pretty tough. I guess they want to be sure that no water gets in there before delivery. I cleaned it off my other cars completely but you have to use an adhesive remover as it's really sticky stuff. I did not do that on my current Lexus.
Thanks for the advice let me know when you do it take pics!!
Old 01-21-17, 03:08 PM
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The dealer replaced my plate and used plastic screws. They said they never rust (obviously) and should be easy to remove at any time. Makes sense to me.
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