Foot well LED replacement
#34
I'm not sure why anyone would want their foot wells lit so brightly. You don't need any light at all to see where your feet go. Even in the cleanest of cars the floor mats are going to be the dirtiest part of the car's interior. Maybe you want to show off the aluminum pedals? Is that it?
-Mike
#38
Pole Position
Thread Starter
#41
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
All my other interior lights work. Which are all connected to the one fuse in the engine bay.
I cut the led off the driver side. The other 3 i havent touched.
#42
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Im trying to replace them with new leds. But yes, i dont think im getting power to just the footwell lights. The 1w fuse attached to the driver side led is blown and i need to replace it. But i wouldnt think it would effect the other 3 footwell lights?
All my other interior lights work. Which are all connected to the one fuse in the engine bay.
I cut the led off the driver side. The other 3 i havent touched.
All my other interior lights work. Which are all connected to the one fuse in the engine bay.
I cut the led off the driver side. The other 3 i havent touched.
#44
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Sorry for the delay.
What I tried to do is make a connection that will allow me to quickly swap the aftermarket led with the oem led when I need to take the car to the dealership, and also easy to swap aftermarket leds for trying out different colors. For that I used what I had laying around, which is a few pairs of audio cables. You can use whatever connectors you want, I'm just lazy.
Preparing the cables
Left to right: male audio connector, T10 led socket wire connector.
Soldered: male audio connector, T10 led socket wire connector.
Female audio connector, male audio connector, T10 led socket, T10 led.
Male audio connector, oem led.
T10 led socket and oem led, both with audio male connectors.
Pull out the 7.5 amps form the fuse box under the hood, on the passenger side.
Make sure you pulled out the right fuse by checking that the REAR doors led strip are out. The front doors will still be on. Also, the footwell leds should be out.
On the passenger side, just pry out the cover with your finger.
It should come out nicely, there's nothing you can break.
Cut off the oem led. As explained in the wire preparation section above, I soldered a male audio connector to the oem led and a female audio connector to the car wires.
From left to right: the car wires with the audio female connector, audio male connector soldered to T10 wired socket.
Car wire with audio female, T10 led & oem led with audio males.
T10 led taped in place. It doesn't stay put otherwise but the electrical tape is more than enough, grips very well.
Passenger side done
Now the driver side. Pretty much the same story, take the cover off: it has 3 visible screws and one tricky plastic retainer that keeps in place even after you took of the 3 screws. It's roughly at the center of the cover, just pry with your fingers and you'll be able to see it. Push it in to release the hold.
The plastic holder.
Cut off the oem led
Soldier the audio female to the car wires
Plug in the T10 wired socket
This is it pretty much. Two hours if you don't know what you're doing, one hour if you do. I didn't. Let me know if you have any questions.
What I tried to do is make a connection that will allow me to quickly swap the aftermarket led with the oem led when I need to take the car to the dealership, and also easy to swap aftermarket leds for trying out different colors. For that I used what I had laying around, which is a few pairs of audio cables. You can use whatever connectors you want, I'm just lazy.
Preparing the cables
Left to right: male audio connector, T10 led socket wire connector.
Soldered: male audio connector, T10 led socket wire connector.
Female audio connector, male audio connector, T10 led socket, T10 led.
Male audio connector, oem led.
T10 led socket and oem led, both with audio male connectors.
Pull out the 7.5 amps form the fuse box under the hood, on the passenger side.
Make sure you pulled out the right fuse by checking that the REAR doors led strip are out. The front doors will still be on. Also, the footwell leds should be out.
On the passenger side, just pry out the cover with your finger.
It should come out nicely, there's nothing you can break.
Cut off the oem led. As explained in the wire preparation section above, I soldered a male audio connector to the oem led and a female audio connector to the car wires.
From left to right: the car wires with the audio female connector, audio male connector soldered to T10 wired socket.
Car wire with audio female, T10 led & oem led with audio males.
T10 led taped in place. It doesn't stay put otherwise but the electrical tape is more than enough, grips very well.
Passenger side done
Now the driver side. Pretty much the same story, take the cover off: it has 3 visible screws and one tricky plastic retainer that keeps in place even after you took of the 3 screws. It's roughly at the center of the cover, just pry with your fingers and you'll be able to see it. Push it in to release the hold.
The plastic holder.
Cut off the oem led
Soldier the audio female to the car wires
Plug in the T10 wired socket
This is it pretty much. Two hours if you don't know what you're doing, one hour if you do. I didn't. Let me know if you have any questions.
Last edited by metrathon; 02-07-16 at 12:17 PM.
#45
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Did u happen to notice a black fuse holder connected to the led? I have one connected to at least the front two footwell lights. A mechanic at a Lexus dealership told me that this was added aftermarket and he thinks its lojack. I laughed at first but he was serious. I dought the dealership would add lojack and not tell the buyer about it?
Circled in red
Circled in red