RA051823

I had to change the rear brake pads and rotors on my wife's car and decided to make a "how to" video (enclosed is the link). Hopefully this video will help you owners out if you're looking to do this job in the future. If you have basic hand tools and some mechanical back ground this job can be completed in a few hours.

Just don't forget to turn off the auto electronic parking brake! Doh!!!

jacktung

What a great video instruction!! I am going to try it when the time comes.. thanks

er34

I used the old pads and C-clamp to push in the caliper pistons on mine. You must be pretty strong to push them in with bare hands.

It's great that Lexus doesn't require using the dice tool to push the rear caliper pistons in as is typically required on other makes.

Tcagle

Any specific torque settings on the caliper bolts?

Dan...love your videos!

RA051823

Thanks for the kind words! No problem and good luck!

LOL I wish! I'm only about 160lbs. Yea, C-clamps do come in handy for pushing back the caliper piston but I was able to do it in "hulk smash" mode.

Thanks! I really appreciate that!

Unfortunately, I do not have the torque settings for the bolts. If anyone has them I can update the video.

Once I finish up on DIY video for the front differential, I'm probably done with the car for a while as we will be getting into cold weather here.

ExtrmeLex

What I said the torque spec to re tighten the bolts for the brake caliper bolts.

RA051823

Torque settings have been added. I have a friend who has a ProDemand auto subscription and he hooked me up.

peasodos

iTrader: (1)

Here are the torque numbers from the factory manual the caliper mounting bolts are 92 ft/lb, basically as tight as you possible can. The brake cylinder slide pins are 20ft/lb.

richard203

iTrader: (1)

you dont need to disable the parking brake to do the rear brakes?

OUT FOX EM

Thanks for bumping this thread. Looks like I’m going to have to do my brakes within the next week or so.

peasodos

iTrader: (1)

Yes you need to turn off the parking brake to do the rears, otherwise nothing will move since the rear pistons are fully applied against the rear pads.

peasodos

iTrader: (1)

If you change the front rotors, the torque specs for the caliper bolts is 100 ft/lb, basically as tight as you can get it. If your just doing pads, then no bolts to remove, just remove the metal retainer, and remove the pin to pull the pads. @DIYDanCars also has a video for the front, I recommend watching.

CelicaJerr

Good video, thanks!
You forgot one important thing - brake fluid. When you compress the piston back to the "home" setting, that will push more fluid through the brake line back into the brake fluid reservoir. If you don't have space there (it's full), the extra brake fluid will push out into the engine bay area. It is corrosive.
If you have space in the reservoir, or in other words you haven't changed your brake fluid, it is best to flush (or have it done by a pro if you don't know how) after you change your brake pads.
Generally, change your brake fluid every 3 years or when you change your pads, whichever comes first.

peasodos

iTrader: (1)

Unless your brake fluid is really dirty there is no good reason to change it. My last car I never changed the brake fluid over 8 years and never had a problem. Changing fluid every 3 years is overkill imo, my 2013 has never had a brake fluid change and it's still in great shape(transparent in the reservoir). When the pads wear down the fluid level goes down, when you install the new pads it goes back up. That's why there is a min and max in the reservoir, also more room above the max.

I would say if you have changed your fluid and didn't bring it back to the previous level or added to it for some silly reason, then it's a good idea to check the fluid level before pushing the piston back, otherwise it's not an issue.

Same thing with changing rotors every pad change its unnecessary and over kill, frankly a waste of money. My 2013 still has original rotors with almost 100k miles and they are still in good shape. As long as the thickness of the rotor is within spec there is no need to change it.

marjenmill

That might be what you prefer for your own car and that's fine for you, though it isn't a recommended practice by any OEM including Lexus/Toyota. Per Lexus, it's every 3 years or 30k miles whichever occurs first for our GS models. Some OEMs are even recommending 2 years, but it depends on each OEM, model and how the vehicle is used.