Car shakes when braking??!!
#1
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So i just purchased my 2013 Lexus gs 350 f sport on 12/27. The second day i was driving i started noticing that the car would shake every time i would apply the brake. And at highway speed when i brake the car shakes faster. The dealer said they installed brand new rotors and pads but they believe since the car was sitting outside for almost two months that rust got build up inside the rotors? Now they said that to drive it a few more days and if that shake doesn't stop, then they will get me brand new rotors and pads but i would have to go half on the cost which turns out to be about $200. Also i noticed the taillight is starting to fog up wheich they said if i get a new one, they would switch it for free. what do you guys think?
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#4
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Look like IL doesnt have the cooling off period. In case you did sign the contract with the cooling off period STOP DRIVING THE CAR! Bc you can return the car within thr contracted period and milage. Normaly 1 week and 100miles
#5
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Also the rust does not cause vibration. The hard braking on new rotor cause the warped rotor. If they in fact did change the rotors, it wasnt broken properly. (People test drive the car hard braking, drive high speed etc.) and that would cover under warranty
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/why-do-brake-rotors-warp
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/why-do-brake-rotors-warp
#6
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Was the car certified? Or did dealer have a list of work that they did on the car? If you have the list, the shop should do the warranty works for you on the brakes. The light housing you are out of luck since it is selling as it you support to check prior siging the contract.
Look like IL doesnt have the cooling off period. In case you did sign the contract with the cooling off period STOP DRIVING THE CAR! Bc you can return the car within thr contracted period and milage. Normaly 1 week and 100miles
Look like IL doesnt have the cooling off period. In case you did sign the contract with the cooling off period STOP DRIVING THE CAR! Bc you can return the car within thr contracted period and milage. Normaly 1 week and 100miles
Also the rust does not cause vibration. The hard braking on new rotor cause the warped rotor. If they in fact did change the rotors, it wasnt broken properly. (People test drive the car hard braking, drive high speed etc.) and that would cover under warranty
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...ke-rotors-warp
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article...ke-rotors-warp
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The car is not certified. I will ask for the list of work that was done on the car when i go pick it up tonight. I did in fact purchase a warranty but turns out it doesn't cover rotors. I wonder if it covers that tailight...hmmmmm. So if i decide to go the route of paying half for new rotors and pads do you guys think i should pay half?
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#8
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The car was bought from the used car department of a non-Lexus dealership, which means the car is not Lexus CPO.
It looks like this used car dealer who sold the car isn't willing to make the car acceptable without the buyer coming up with extra money. To me - that is totally unacceptable!
If it were me - I'd find out very quickly if Illinois state law will allow you to return it for a full refund. Keep tract of all your communications (time, person, what was said, etc.).
It looks like this used car dealer who sold the car isn't willing to make the car acceptable without the buyer coming up with extra money. To me - that is totally unacceptable!
If it were me - I'd find out very quickly if Illinois state law will allow you to return it for a full refund. Keep tract of all your communications (time, person, what was said, etc.).
#9
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The rotors suck on these cars. Mine were so rusted after 40k that they were pushing on the backing plate and making god awful grinding noises when turning and they were also vibrating when braking. Rust can cause the vibration issues but not in the manner that they are saying, if the rotors are new then surface rust would not cause the vibration. Surface rust is actually normal in most climates. They may just be blaming the rust if they had a car come in with the same problem as mine and just applied the same logic to your car. But something doesn't add up here, they want you to pay half of the cost which is stated to be $200. The dealership quoted me $1400 for replacement of all my rotors and brake pads. I laughed at them and went to my buddies shop and went aftermarket. Are they saying that they just want you to pay half the cost of the parts and will do the work for free? I don't recall the cost of the parts that they quoted me but $400 seems light.
#10
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I agree with the other guys' posts here, but thought I would chime in too.
I think it's crazy that they want you to come up with $200 - regardless of the situation. As mentioned above, "since the car was sitting outside for almost two months that rust got build up inside the rotors?" and is causing the shake/vibration...no way.
Here's MY issue, if the Dealer just did a brake job they should honor that "work". If they don't, that says a lot about them. Plus, if they did a brake job and you are now having problems...what would lead anyone to believe if they did it again (with you now paying $200) that the outcome would be any different?
Right now it's all about who is in "the position of power". If you have the ability to return the car, you should state that this is your intention unless the situation is resolved. Unfortunately I would bet the Dealer is procrastinating in hopes: you will find a way to live with it; identify another way to get it resolved; OR (this is my hunch) too much time will pass and you will end up with no recourse. If too much time passes (even if you are doing so by their instruction) the Dealer will then be in "the position of power" and you'll be stuck with whatever they feel like offering/providing.
I think it's crazy that they want you to come up with $200 - regardless of the situation. As mentioned above, "since the car was sitting outside for almost two months that rust got build up inside the rotors?" and is causing the shake/vibration...no way.
Here's MY issue, if the Dealer just did a brake job they should honor that "work". If they don't, that says a lot about them. Plus, if they did a brake job and you are now having problems...what would lead anyone to believe if they did it again (with you now paying $200) that the outcome would be any different?
Right now it's all about who is in "the position of power". If you have the ability to return the car, you should state that this is your intention unless the situation is resolved. Unfortunately I would bet the Dealer is procrastinating in hopes: you will find a way to live with it; identify another way to get it resolved; OR (this is my hunch) too much time will pass and you will end up with no recourse. If too much time passes (even if you are doing so by their instruction) the Dealer will then be in "the position of power" and you'll be stuck with whatever they feel like offering/providing.
#11
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The warranty will normaly cover powertrain only so no luck on the brake nor the light. But if they did the works they have to cover the work under warranty, most new part will cover at least 90days. So basically they tell you to pay 200 is scam! Also lesson is next time double, tripple check the car before you sign any paperwork.
#12
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If you decided to back out and pay for the brake job, make sure they replace it with new oem parts. Get the receive and make sure the new part will be under warantty for some period (normaly 90 days). Dont lets they run you over man.
#13
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As others mentioned make sure they use the right parts but the looks of it they are gonna use cheap parts and try to get rid of asap. Ask them to provide you the receipts of the parts.