When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
All I did was remove the stock ML sub, hooked up a Toyota speaker harness I had (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120728...s.html?tp=3097) from an old install, dropped it through the sub opening and just attached the wiring to the sub. The ML amp actually had enough power to push the sub. It is very limited though. You still have no control over it and you still need to keep the bass level up on the settings. But for 60% or more of my music, it fills in some of that missing bass. On songs with deep bass, you really notice it. It will shake the mirror.
If you really want to only run this route,find a 2 ohm sub (or 2 ohm combination) and the most efficient one you can find. You want a sensitivity rating as close to 90 as you can get (higher is better)
Just don't expect this to be the magic bullet. You will still be better off with a signal processor and an amp (or powered sub.
Once I get the DSP installed, I will let you know the frequency range of that output.
Connector from stock sub
10" Alpine DVC - Sealed box
So, I went ahead and ordered those wire harnesses and even got a cheap sub from Crutchfield to see how it works out.
It's a lot of steps:
three screws to open the access panel
oil pan bolt
filter access cap
filter drain plug (messy)
filter housing
filter extraction (messy)
two o ring replacements
oil plug gasket replacement
reassemble
As much as I appreciate the lessened waste, the process is longer...and messier.
It's a lot of steps:
three screws to open the access panel
oil pan bolt
filter access cap
filter drain plug (hard to do without a mess)
filter housing
filter extraction (messy)
two o ring replacements
oil plug gasket replacement
reassemble
As much as I appreciate the lessened waste, the process is longer...and messier.
How difficult is it to remove the factory sub? Any tips on that?
You have to remove the back seat. This is for a 2018. Yours should be similar but the number of clips may vary.
Grab the lower cushion by the front. Feel along the bottom until you find the clip. Yank the seat cushion up really hard. Do the same to other side. There should only be 2 holding it down. Pull cushion forward then remove from car.
There should be 4 bolts along the bottom of the rear cushion. Remove those. Grab the bottom of the seat on either side and lift straight up really hard and pull forward. There are 2 clips at the top that face down holding the seat in place. (This is easier with 2 people, one on each side lifting at the same time) This task is more difficult than it sounds. You have to really yank.
You have 2 options at this point. Disconnect the battery, then disconnect air bags and remove the seat, or just push the seat forward and work behind it.I usually leave it in.
Place your hand under the rear deck and feel along for the clips at the front edge. There were 4 on mine. Using a panel tool, or a taped pry bar or large taped screw driver pry up on the clips. They are the christmas tree style so should pop up fairly easily. You can try to remove the rear deck but I think there are a lot more steps to that including removing the C pillar covers. I don't mess with that. There is barely enough room to carefully lift the rear deck in the middle and get your hands in there. Small hands work better. I used a short piece of 2x4 to hold it up while working.
Get a small ratchet and a long socket (10mm maybe, I don't remember) and remove the 4 bolts holding in the subwoofer. Then remove the harness and lift the sub out and pull forward. It's an inverted sub and the magnet is in the cone so it is fairly flat.
Just reverse the process to put everything back together.
And that sub probably won't work. It's 4 ohm. You need a 2 ohm sub. It will only get half the power and with an 87 sensitivity, you will need the power.
Ran over a piece of wood on the middle of the road and it bent my RCF wheel :*(
Same thing happened to me about 6 months ago. The bent didn't cause any vibration or cause any pull of the steering wheel. Just last week, I finally couldn't stand it (just kept noticing it everytime since it was on my front driver side wheel) and decided to get it fixed. I went to a wheel repair shop that was able to hammer it back straight without damaging the finish. Repair was about $85. The guy put something soft on top when hammering and was able to buff out any scuffs the hammering caused. Below is a pic of the damaged wheel before.
You have to remove the back seat. This is for a 2018. Yours should be similar but the number of clips may vary.
Grab the lower cushion by the front. Feel along the bottom until you find the clip. Yank the seat cushion up really hard. Do the same to other side. There should only be 2 holding it down. Pull cushion forward then remove from car.
There should be 4 bolts along the bottom of the rear cushion. Remove those. Grab the bottom of the seat on either side and lift straight up really hard and pull forward. There are 2 clips at the top that face down holding the seat in place. (This is easier with 2 people, one on each side lifting at the same time) This task is more difficult than it sounds. You have to really yank.
You have 2 options at this point. Disconnect the battery, then disconnect air bags and remove the seat, or just push the seat forward and work behind it.I usually leave it in.
Place your hand under the rear deck and feel along for the clips at the front edge. There were 4 on mine. Using a panel tool, or a taped pry bar or large taped screw driver pry up on the clips. They are the christmas tree style so should pop up fairly easily. You can try to remove the rear deck but I think there are a lot more steps to that including removing the C pillar covers. I don't mess with that. There is barely enough room to carefully lift the rear deck in the middle and get your hands in there. Small hands work better. I used a short piece of 2x4 to hold it up while working.
Get a small ratchet and a long socket (10mm maybe, I don't remember) and remove the 4 bolts holding in the subwoofer. Then remove the harness and lift the sub out and pull forward. It's an inverted sub and the magnet is in the cone so it is fairly flat.
Just reverse the process to put everything back together.
04-06-18, 07:47 AM
