GS - 4th Gen (2013-2020) Discussion about the 2013 and up GS models

Dashcam Recommendations?

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Old 05-06-18, 10:39 AM
  #61  
eddie420
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Originally Posted by peteharvey
Also notice how only a 3 Amp fuse has been used for each dashcam, and that is actually far more than enough for typical dashcams that run a maximum amperage still well below 0.5 amps each.
Thank you very much for the detailed writeup peteharvey. It looks like you are using a 15A original fuse paired with 3A and a 10A original fuse paired with 3A. I understand that the current draw from these dashcams @ 12V is probably less than an amp and it's typically good to double the fuse (typically per UL). However, this is ONLY good if you running the dashcams directly from the fuse box.

But I am using a Celllink battery pack which when hardwired to the fuse box, will pull anywhere between 7.5 to 10A. And per the website:
.
"For Cellink installations, we recommend using an accessory fuse of at least 15A as it has been known to blow 7.5 or 10A fuses. For regular dash cam hardwire kits you can use as low as a 2A blade fuse but if you don't have one handy it's okay to run a higher amperage fuse. Most high quality dash cam hardwire cables will have inline 2-3A glass fuses that will protect your dash cam in addition to the protection the add-a-fuse offers. Vehicles that run low-profile fuses should go with the add-a-fuse as it is very difficult just to wrap a wire around a fuse leg and plug it back in with low-profiles fuses."
.
So I will use the 15A for now and hope it is sufficient. Thanks again for your help. I will eventually install this once I get the time and will report back with results.
Old 05-06-18, 10:50 AM
  #62  
peteharvey
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Originally Posted by eddie420
Thank you very much for the detailed writeup peteharvey. It looks like you are using a 15A original fuse paired with 3A and a 10A original fuse paired with 3A. I understand that the current draw from these dashcams @ 12V is probably less than an amp and it's typically good to double the fuse (typically per UL). However, this is ONLY good if you running the dashcams directly from the fuse box.

But I am using a Celllink battery pack which when hardwired to the fuse box, will pull anywhere between 7.5 to 10A. And per the website:
.
"For Cellink installations, we recommend using an accessory fuse of at least 15A as it has been known to blow 7.5 or 10A fuses. For regular dash cam hardwire kits you can use as low as a 2A blade fuse but if you don't have one handy it's okay to run a higher amperage fuse. Most high quality dash cam hardwire cables will have inline 2-3A glass fuses that will protect your dash cam in addition to the protection the add-a-fuse offers. Vehicles that run low-profile fuses should go with the add-a-fuse as it is very difficult just to wrap a wire around a fuse leg and plug it back in with low-profiles fuses."
.
So I will use the 15A for now and hope it is sufficient. Thanks again for your help. I will eventually install this once I get the time and will report back with results.
You are totally correct.
I was thinking of hardwiring for dashcams, rather than the Cellink B battery pack.
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Old 05-07-18, 09:24 AM
  #63  
Pacman9270
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Thanks peteharvey! And, yes, I was asking about dashcam LKA feature reliability. Appreciate it!
Old 05-14-18, 04:51 PM
  #64  
eddie420
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Originally Posted by peteharvey
You are totally correct.
I was thinking of hardwiring for dashcams, rather than the Cellink B battery pack.
Got sidetracked. Will be doing install soon. Also cleaned up the wires a bit. Btw, I checked the 20A sun roof fuse and it had power going to it even though ignition was off. Was strange... but maybe because I was upside down I might have checked the wrong fuse. Will double check tomorrow.




Old 05-15-18, 08:46 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by eddie420
Got sidetracked. Will be doing install soon. Also cleaned up the wires a bit. Btw, I checked the 20A sun roof fuse and it had power going to it even though ignition was off. Was strange... but maybe because I was upside down I might have checked the wrong fuse. Will double check tomorrow.
That's exactly what I mean.
We must test each fuse with a fuse tester or a multimeter if we want to really know if it is continuous power supply, or switched power supply.

Originally Posted by peteharvey
(3)
Continuous or Switched Power Supply
Do we want to hardwire to a continuous power supply socket in the fuse box, or only a switched power supply socket?
Because a switched power supply socket in the fuse box will only recharge your Lion battery pack when the engine is switched on, while a continuous power supply socket will recharge your Lion battery pack 24 hours/day and 7 days/week; I suspect you want only a switched power supply socket.

In my experience, our logical thinking often doesn't work, because I remember in one of my other cars, the windscreen wiper is "supposed" to be a switched power supply which only worked when the engine was switched on, but in fact it was "actually" a continuous power supply - confirmed after testing etc.
The way to ensure that we are really using a genuine switched fuse was to use an simple current tester like the one below, while I actually use a Fluke 87V multimeter, to measure the current to identify a number of switched fuses to tap into.




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Old 06-03-18, 09:28 PM
  #66  
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I've been tapping off of the mirror power for years on my GS and 3IS... It's really not a bad option and lends itself to a clean install. Check out the wiring diagrams here:
http://docdro.id/TmWfv5o

If anyone is interested in a turn-key solution, check this homelink to micro-usb adapter out:
10-pin adapter 10-pin adapter
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Old 08-17-18, 08:48 AM
  #67  
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Need a dashcam for my 16-yo son in his GS430, thinking Garmin for simplicity and reliability.

Thoughts?

Thanks!
Old 08-18-18, 04:51 PM
  #68  
AL13NV8D3R
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You guys do realize you can tap into an unsed part of the fusebox. One row of fuses is dedicated always on power and the other side is switched power, confirmed by my voltmeter. This way you wont have to risk using a fuse spot for heated seats or hazard lights. I used the fuse box right under the front passenger footwell to install my Thinkware F770 and Cellink Neo battery. It worked flawlessly.
​​​​​​
I also have an Owl Dash cam installed in the same car too. This one is connected to the OBD2 port on my 2014 GS350.

So I have two front cameras, a rear view camera and an in-cabin camera. My employees hate parking near me. LoL

Last edited by AL13NV8D3R; 08-18-18 at 04:55 PM.
Old 08-18-18, 07:10 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by AL13NV8D3R
You guys do realize you can tap into an unsed part of the fusebox. One row of fuses is dedicated always on power and the other side is switched power, confirmed by my voltmeter. This way you wont have to risk using a fuse spot for heated seats or hazard lights. I used the fuse box right under the front passenger footwell to install my Thinkware F770 and Cellink Neo battery. It worked flawlessly.
​​​​​​
I also have an Owl Dash cam installed in the same car too. This one is connected to the OBD2 port on my 2014 GS350.

So I have two front cameras, a rear view camera and an in-cabin camera. My employees hate parking near me. LoL
which fuse slot did you use. I’ve being trying to figure out which one will turn off but all the empty ones I’ve tested are live and only the trunk has fuse slots that I’ve found that turn off
Old 08-27-18, 05:43 AM
  #70  
AL13NV8D3R
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Originally Posted by baconRx


which fuse slot did you use. I’ve being trying to figure out which one will turn off but all the empty ones I’ve tested are live and only the trunk has fuse slots that I’ve found that turn off
First of all, use these instructions at your own risk. I am not a license electrician nor am I a mechanic for cars. I am just an avergav joe with average skills in the electrical department. The info I am giving you today is an example of my specific situation and may or may not apply to your car. I am not responsible for any damages or problems with your car if you use my advice. Please seek a proper electrician if you do not know what your doing. Please note that this is my setup for a Thinkware F770 and it works perfectly when the engine is on and parking mode works whew engine is off. If your dashcam does not go into parking mode while engine off than most likely you have connected the fuse wrong.


The outer edges of the fuse box is either 12V Constant and the opposite side is 12V Switched. I test every single one of the fuse slots to confirm this. Make sure when you use a voltmeter that you remove the fuse first then use the positive probe on the outer edge fuse contact of the fuse box and the negative probe to the ground of the vehicle.

My GS didnt come with every option so there were alot of empty fuse slots available. I tapped my wiring to those empty fuse slots to ease of application and safety.



Last edited by AL13NV8D3R; 08-27-18 at 06:49 AM.
Old 08-27-18, 06:27 AM
  #71  
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Here is another photo for the negative or ground portion of the fuse box.


Last edited by AL13NV8D3R; 08-27-18 at 11:19 AM.
Old 08-27-18, 09:34 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by AL13NV8D3R
Here is another photo for the negative or ground portion of the fuse box.

did you use the bolt in the top right to ground or will the one at the bottom of the fuse box work too?
Old 08-28-18, 08:54 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by baconRx
did you use the bolt in the top right to ground or will the one at the bottom of the fuse box work too?
Any bolt attaching to the metal chassis of the car will be grounded, in theory. That bolt on the right hand looks to be grounded.
Old 08-28-18, 08:46 PM
  #74  
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Mine is a denicer...




I feel like it’s discreet... best of luck..!
Old 10-15-19, 02:58 PM
  #75  
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@peteharvey Is the Viofo A129 camera a good camera for parking mode? I am looking for parking mode and WiFi/app capability. You rated the previous model as a good model for parking mode. I plan on buying the hardwire kit.


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