peasodos

iTrader: (1)

supercharger whine lol. Some people would find that pleasant.

mrplesh

Anyone know how hard it is to replace? I have had the whine, I live with it, but if it's a cheap fix, I wouldn't mind tinkering

jgscott

iTrader: (1)

I have this problem right now. Its the Tensioner pulley. Only 39k and its whining. I plan to replace it myself real soon. Its the pulley on it. Going to just get the Toy/Lex complete unit and new belt to assure I don't have a tensioner malfunction also.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...l#post11176107

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ley-noise.html

mrplesh

I have inspected my pulleys, even replaced the idlthe
the noise still exists with the belt removed from the engine.
I assume based on other posts that it is the timing chain tensioner

jgscott

iTrader: (1)

Understand just saying that I have a whine and what mine is. I hope I'm not back here posting I replaced the belt and pulley and the whine is still there.

Is there a updated timing chain Tensioner from 2013? What year is your car? Where do you hear it from? Top left, right where?

mrplesh

Not an updated that I am aware of, but I'm at 133k so I wouldn't be upset if it needed replacement. I'll investigate the location of the sound better next chance I get

jgscott

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, blew seeing you sig with the year. lol!

jeverett72

I have a 2013 with only 40K miles and the same whining sound when accelerating/increasing revs. Has anyone nailed down whether this is the timing chain tensioner or the tension pulley?If you have had either of these replaced at the dealer how much was the total cost?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Knq...ew?usp=sharing

bclexus

A bad or failing diode in an alternator will make a high-pitched, whining noise.

You can test your alternator to see if it has a bad or failing diode - and if it fails the test it will probably eliminate anything else you think may be causing the high-pitched whining noise.

You'll need a common VOM (volt-ohm-meter) to perform the test. Select 'AC Volts' on the meter. With the engine running make contact with the meter's probes to the battery terminals. The AC voltage should read zero. If you have any amount of AC voltage it indicates the alternator has one or more bad or failing diodes.

The principle behind the test is this - An alternator makes AC voltage and converts the AC voltage to DC voltage by using six or more diodes in a full-wave bridge configuration to rectify AC voltage to DC voltage. If the alternator has bad or failing diodes its output will have some amount of AC voltage whereas a sound alternator will only have pure, smooth (low-ripple) DC voltage and no AC voltage. Bad or failing diodes in the alternator's full-wave bridge will cause it to 'sing' with a high-pitched whining noise, which is often mistaken for a mechanical metal-on-metal or bad bearing type sound.

Hope that helps!

jeverett72

Thanks that does help. This could definitely be the cause b/c now that I think about it the whining sound started recently after the battery in my other car died and I tried to jump it with my GS. It didn't work and maybe that shorted some of the diodes in my alternator.

bclexus

I'm glad it did help!

A bad alternator is very harmful to an otherwise healthy battery and the likelihood that the battery will continue to start the engine much longer is pretty slim. The reason why is because a bad alternator cannot properly charge the battery, so it's constantly in a state of deterioration. A battery that will not start an engine is either almost drained (dead) or has a bad (internally shorted) cell which has an almost immediate death warrant. In the case of an almost drained battery it is important to find out why it is almost drained, which most often is caused by a bad alternator.

Chances are pretty good the act of jump-starting that other car blew one or more of the alternator's diodes. it sounds like (excuse the pun) your alternator needs to be replaced with a new one.

I'd recommend having the alternator checked for confirmation that it's bad. The technician should do a test similar to what I explained, looking for AC voltage output, though the 'diode whine' is a leading clue.

You want to make sure you can get the car to wherever the alternator is going to be replaced. I'd think twice before having a rebuilt or used alternator installed...

Saadq12

this sounds totally normal to me…my 200k mile GS350 sounds exactly like that as well. The 2GR-FSE is known for a slight whine cause of the the timing chain and ticking from both fuel injectors

bclexus

If the noise is coming from your alternator you're looking at $700 to $800 at the dealer to replace it. A new OE alternator would be charged out at $534 and probably 1.5 to 2 hours labor at ~$130+ per hour to remove/replace and test it, plus sales tax and maybe some minor parts like solvent and under hood push type retainer clips. You'll likely need the battery replaced as well at ~$150 installed. You should be able to leave the dealer spending just under $1,000.

Saadq12

I bought a remanufactured Denso alternator from RockAuto for like 160$ and got it installed by my mechanic for another 200$. It’s been working fine since

bclexus

He asked about the cost of having parts replace at the dealer. Yes, a rebuilt/ remanufactured automotive part almost always has old parts that were not replaced when the item was rebuilt/ remanufactured. It's also been found that sometimes the parts used to rebuilt/ remanufacture some parts are not equivalent to what was used by the OEM. They've been known to use inferior individual parts that can't be trusted like a new OE item. I've seen enough rebuilt/ remanufactured parts that failed to come anywhere close to matching OE parts to know that I don't want them.