10sw30 for 2013 gs350 ??
#16
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i dont understand where you got the idea it was about saving money. The OP stated he wanted to use 10w30 synthetic oil, is that cheaper than 0w20 synthetic?I doubt it. I think they are more worried about protecting the engine properly as 0w20 is basically water and in hot climates im not sure how well it protects either.
#17
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According to the owner's manual Page 555, you can use your choice of: 0W 20, 5W 20, 5W 30 & 10W 30 etc, but at very low temperatures, if you use 10W 30 or higher viscosities, very cold starts may be very difficult.
On Page 556, the owner's manual recommends that a higher second digit like 5W 30 or 10W 30 is better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions.
On Page 556, half way down, 0W 20 has fuel saving & environmental protection capabilities etc.
.
On Page 556, the owner's manual recommends that a higher second digit like 5W 30 or 10W 30 is better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions.
On Page 556, half way down, 0W 20 has fuel saving & environmental protection capabilities etc.
.
Last edited by peteharvey; 02-18-18 at 08:03 AM.
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#18
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this kind of reasoning doesnt make sense because they spec thinner oils to increase mpg’s and meet emissions standards. They do not spec oils for maximum protection and in their terms the life of a car is only 150k miles. They also say the transmission fluid doesnt need to be changed 🙄 i hope no one is following that recommendation either.
#19
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Where in the world are you getting your information? Could you be more specific and name your sources and provide a link to them? I have been driving Lexus's since 1999 and have followed the manufacturers recommendations on oil and oil changes and have NEVER had an engine problem because their oil recommendations " spec thinner oils to increase mpg’s and meet emissions standards." And where you get your information that Lexus specs their engine life to 150,000 miles? If maintained according to the manufacturers recommendations for proper maintenance their engines are just about broke in at 150,000 miles. Many folks on this forum have exceeded 200,000 miles on their cars with no problems.
As for lexus, maybe you never noticed that the 2010 gs350 is specced for 5w30 but the 2011 (same engine) is specced for 5w20? This is because 2011 is the year of newley implemented CAFE standards. It you dont know the difference between 5w20 and 5w30 ,here you go, read all about it.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/putti...nto-viscosity/ ill save you the read, 5w20 is thinner with lower film strength than 5w30.
wheres my info that a cars lifetime is 150k? Check your owners manual, it ends at 150k, pretty obvious. The service intervals are redundant after 60k. You can make any car last to a million miles if you kept fixing it but that doesnt mean thats it expected lifetime. Wheres your proof to the contrary?
Ill even throw in a freebie, heres an article about 0w20 from the forums.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...0w20-0w-20.pdf
#21
#22
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#23
Lexus Fanatic
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Where in the world are you getting your information? Could you be more specific and name your sources and provide a link to them? I have been driving Lexus's since 1999 and have followed the manufacturers recommendations on oil and oil changes and have NEVER had an engine problem because their oil recommendations " spec thinner oils to increase mpg’s and meet emissions standards." And where you get your information that Lexus specs their engine life to 150,000 miles? If maintained according to the manufacturers recommendations for proper maintenance their engines are just about broke in at 150,000 miles. Many folks on this forum have exceeded 200,000 miles on their cars with no problems.
#24
Instructor
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If 0W20 was a problem it would have showed up already. If you had a turbo/supercharged model, I'd advocate for thicker oils and exclusively synthetics. If this was a tow vehicle, I'd also advocate for thicker oils and probably insist on an aux oil cooler and aux trans cooler.
#25
Lexus Test Driver
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Most engine wear (from dry metal-on-metal damage) is done in the first few minutes after a cold start. A 'cold start' can be defined as any time after an engine has cooled off, regardless of the ambient temperature conditions. The faster your engine can pump lubricating engine oil throughout the engine to reduce this wear the longer your engine will last.
The first number preceding the 'W' (which stands for Winter) represents a grade (not a viscosity) of how the oil will flow when cold. This first number rates the oil's flow at 0°F (-17.8°C). The colder the ambient [climate] temperature, the more important it is to use a 0W (first number) engine oil. But, a 0W (first number) oil is not just for cold climates - it also helps tremendously to get lubrication flowing in the engine during a cold start - even on a hot summer day. The faster the engine oil can flow, the better.
The second number represents the oil's viscosity at a specific temperature - that happens to be exactly 100°C (212°F), which is the typical 'normal operating temperature' of engine oil after the engine reaches its normal operating temperature. It should be noted that during colder weather conditions an engine may never actually reach its 'normal operating temperature', and if it does it may take 20-30 minutes to do so - long after your water temperature reaches its normal operating temperature on the dash gauge.
What most people do not realize is that a 0W oil (first number) is much thicker on a hot 100°F summer day sitting in your crankcase at cold start than a 20, 30 or 40 weight oil (the second number) at 100°C (212°F), which is 'normal operating temperature'. In other words, a 0W oil will flow much slower (greater resistance to flow) at 100°F than a 40 weight oil at typical engine operating temperature of 212°F. This is why during an oil change when you drain hot engine oil from the crankcase it flows much like water, yet when you pour the new room temperature oil into the valve cover it flows more like chilled Eggnog or thick She-Crab soup.
What is interesting about all this is - your engine would probably have less wear from driving across country without stopping except for gas compared to just a handful of cold starts ... and the colder the ambient temperature of the cold starts the worse the wear...
So, what is the best 'first number' oil to use? By all means use a 0W to reduce cold start wear as much as possible. What is the best 'second number' oil to use? Use the viscosity that the car maker recommends based on engine bearing clearances, piston ring design and features such as VVTi where engine oil viscosity is used to control camshaft operation and variable valve timing where engine oil must flow through very fine mesh screens for the VVTi to operate correctly. In other words, you are doing your engine an injustice if you use anything other than what the car maker recommends, which is 0W-20 Full Synthetic engine oil.
It's worth repeating that you should not make the mistake of letting your engine water/antifreeze (cooling) temperature gauge determine whether your engine and transmission are up to their normal operating temperature - especially during colder weather. I can assure you that just because your engine cooling temperature gauge has reached it normal position does not mean that your engine or transmission are anywhere near their optimum operating temperature...and that is true even on the hottest summer day. It's a shame that car makers don't put engine oil temperature gauges in their sport class vehicles.
The first number preceding the 'W' (which stands for Winter) represents a grade (not a viscosity) of how the oil will flow when cold. This first number rates the oil's flow at 0°F (-17.8°C). The colder the ambient [climate] temperature, the more important it is to use a 0W (first number) engine oil. But, a 0W (first number) oil is not just for cold climates - it also helps tremendously to get lubrication flowing in the engine during a cold start - even on a hot summer day. The faster the engine oil can flow, the better.
The second number represents the oil's viscosity at a specific temperature - that happens to be exactly 100°C (212°F), which is the typical 'normal operating temperature' of engine oil after the engine reaches its normal operating temperature. It should be noted that during colder weather conditions an engine may never actually reach its 'normal operating temperature', and if it does it may take 20-30 minutes to do so - long after your water temperature reaches its normal operating temperature on the dash gauge.
What most people do not realize is that a 0W oil (first number) is much thicker on a hot 100°F summer day sitting in your crankcase at cold start than a 20, 30 or 40 weight oil (the second number) at 100°C (212°F), which is 'normal operating temperature'. In other words, a 0W oil will flow much slower (greater resistance to flow) at 100°F than a 40 weight oil at typical engine operating temperature of 212°F. This is why during an oil change when you drain hot engine oil from the crankcase it flows much like water, yet when you pour the new room temperature oil into the valve cover it flows more like chilled Eggnog or thick She-Crab soup.
What is interesting about all this is - your engine would probably have less wear from driving across country without stopping except for gas compared to just a handful of cold starts ... and the colder the ambient temperature of the cold starts the worse the wear...
So, what is the best 'first number' oil to use? By all means use a 0W to reduce cold start wear as much as possible. What is the best 'second number' oil to use? Use the viscosity that the car maker recommends based on engine bearing clearances, piston ring design and features such as VVTi where engine oil viscosity is used to control camshaft operation and variable valve timing where engine oil must flow through very fine mesh screens for the VVTi to operate correctly. In other words, you are doing your engine an injustice if you use anything other than what the car maker recommends, which is 0W-20 Full Synthetic engine oil.
It's worth repeating that you should not make the mistake of letting your engine water/antifreeze (cooling) temperature gauge determine whether your engine and transmission are up to their normal operating temperature - especially during colder weather. I can assure you that just because your engine cooling temperature gauge has reached it normal position does not mean that your engine or transmission are anywhere near their optimum operating temperature...and that is true even on the hottest summer day. It's a shame that car makers don't put engine oil temperature gauges in their sport class vehicles.
Last edited by bclexus; 02-19-18 at 06:44 PM.
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jonathancl (02-20-18)
#26
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Ill even throw in a freebie, heres an article about 0w20 from the forums.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...0w20-0w-20.pdf
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...0w20-0w-20.pdf
-Mike
#27
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you mean an ilsac gf5 oil outperforms the ilsac gf4 oils from last decade? Who woulda thought! Lol maybe you should read the article closer!
#28
Instructor
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Ill even throw in a freebie, heres an article about 0w20 from the forums.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/att...0w20-0w-20.pdf
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