Paint Protection Film Installation
#1
Moderator
Thread Starter
Paint Protection Film Installation
I will be applying 3M Scotchguard Pro Paint Protection Film to my vehicle soon. Should I remove the door edge guards and the side molding I have before applying it? Would there be any issues with leaving them on while applying the PPF? I understand the factory paint underneath the molding and edge guards won't be protected by the PPF. Only reason I ask is the molding will be a PITA to remove.
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eddie420 (04-30-18)
#3
Former Sponsor
Eddie, are you applying the film to the doors (bulk film install)? If so, I would try to remove the trim if it isn't too tough and won't show damage once removed. You would wrap the film around the door edges at that point giving you no reason to put the factory edge guards back on.
Hope I'm understanding correctly.
Hope I'm understanding correctly.
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eddie420 (04-30-18)
#4
Moderator
Thread Starter
Eddie, are you applying the film to the doors (bulk film install)? If so, I would try to remove the trim if it isn't too tough and won't show damage once removed. You would wrap the film around the door edges at that point giving you no reason to put the factory edge guards back on. Hope I'm understanding correctly.
#5
Former Sponsor
Well, if you wrap the film around the edge you are going to add about 16/1000ths of an inch. Not sure how well those factory door edges recover after removal. Might be okay to put them back on. Otherwise, you could double up your PPF on the door edge.
That is what I am afraid of, the tolerances of the door edge guard are quite small. Adding a layer of PPF underneath might not work.
Hi! Yes, I am doing a bulk film install. I can apply a little beat of heat and peel it off and I did intend to wrap the film around the door edges. I was hoping I could keep the edge guards after install simply because they look nice and still provide some dent protection. I know the film is excellent for scrapes and other stuff, but is the PPF really a replacement for edge guards? I guess it could be redundant to have both...? Appreciate your insight.
Hi! Yes, I am doing a bulk film install. I can apply a little beat of heat and peel it off and I did intend to wrap the film around the door edges. I was hoping I could keep the edge guards after install simply because they look nice and still provide some dent protection. I know the film is excellent for scrapes and other stuff, but is the PPF really a replacement for edge guards? I guess it could be redundant to have both...? Appreciate your insight.
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eddie420 (04-30-18)
#7
Former Sponsor
Just going to hide any extra lines, which on white is nice (dirt can build up in those lines). I personally would go with just PPF and wouldn't put the edge guards back on to keep a sleek look, but it's not going to hurt.
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#8
Pole Position
It's not gonna look the greatest on white regardless. I would think the existing edge guards would be perfect to scribe the to cut the film up to the edge of them. The factory edge guards would work much better at protecting the door than the film would.
#9
Former Sponsor
Trimming film doesn't quite work like that. You will still have a slight gap.
Yes, those bulky door edge guards will probably provide a little better protection.
Yes, those bulky door edge guards will probably provide a little better protection.
#10
Pole Position
How do you trim it up to an edge? I figured an installer scribes it with a razor knife?! I'm really wanting to do my whole hood myself and figured I'd use scissors to cut the excess then wrap it under the hood edge. I think I'd need a 5 by 5ft. sheet since it would be cheaper than a precut for the hood.
#11
Former Sponsor
You would score the film using the blade at a low angle (Think like an ice skate on ice). In some cases, you might have the ability to rest the blade against another surface to give you a straight consistent cut (like between a fender and door panel you could rest the blade on one side in the gap), however, you would have a harder time resting it against the door edge which is sitting on top of the surface you are trying to protect. The door edge could certainly become a guide, but it's not like you're wedging the blade in to the corner for a perfect scribe-like fit. - this could certainly lead to cut paint.
Yes, for the hood you could bulk a piece on and trim most of it with scissors, leaving like a 1/2" - 1" overlap. You would need some additional trimming at the corners so the film has room to wrap without overlapping itself:
Yes, for the hood you could bulk a piece on and trim most of it with scissors, leaving like a 1/2" - 1" overlap. You would need some additional trimming at the corners so the film has room to wrap without overlapping itself:
How do you trim it up to an edge? I figured an installer scribes it with a razor knife?! I'm really wanting to do my whole hood myself and figured I'd use scissors to cut the excess then wrap it under the hood edge. I think I'd need a 5 by 5ft. sheet since it would be cheaper than a precut for the hood.
#12
Pole Position
You would score the film using the blade at a low angle (Think like an ice skate on ice). In some cases, you might have the ability to rest the blade against another surface to give you a straight consistent cut (like between a fender and door panel you could rest the blade on one side in the gap), however, you would have a harder time resting it against the door edge which is sitting on top of the surface you are trying to protect. The door edge could certainly become a guide, but it's not like you're wedging the blade in to the corner for a perfect scribe-like fit. - this could certainly lead to cut paint.
Yes, for the hood you could bulk a piece on and trim most of it with scissors, leaving like a 1/2" - 1" overlap. You would need some additional trimming at the corners so the film has room to wrap without overlapping itself:
Yes, for the hood you could bulk a piece on and trim most of it with scissors, leaving like a 1/2" - 1" overlap. You would need some additional trimming at the corners so the film has room to wrap without overlapping itself:
#14
Moderator
Thread Starter
You would score the film using the blade at a low angle (Think like an ice skate on ice). In some cases, you might have the ability to rest the blade against another surface to give you a straight consistent cut (like between a fender and door panel you could rest the blade on one side in the gap), however, you would have a harder time resting it against the door edge which is sitting on top of the surface you are trying to protect. The door edge could certainly become a guide, but it's not like you're wedging the blade in to the corner for a perfect scribe-like fit. - this could certainly lead to cut paint.
Yes, for the hood you could bulk a piece on and trim most of it with scissors, leaving like a 1/2" - 1" overlap. You would need some additional trimming at the corners so the film has room to wrap without overlapping itself:
Yes, for the hood you could bulk a piece on and trim most of it with scissors, leaving like a 1/2" - 1" overlap. You would need some additional trimming at the corners so the film has room to wrap without overlapping itself:
Sure bud. When are you planning on doing yours? I have a busy work schedule and the car will need to be out of commission for a few days since the first 24 hours are critical in keeping the chemicals cure. Plus I need to thoroughly pressure wash and clay the car. Time consuming. If AeroTect has some advice before I jump into this since he seems very knowledgeable, that'll help us both!
#15
Former Sponsor
Using the 70% Isopropyl, I use about a 20% alcohol to 80% water. I could use more alcohol depending on the situation.
For Baby Shampoo, I use 2-3ml in a 32 ounce bottle of tap water. Less soap typically if I'm using Distilled, RO, or even some filtered water.
For Baby Shampoo, I use 2-3ml in a 32 ounce bottle of tap water. Less soap typically if I'm using Distilled, RO, or even some filtered water.
That makes sense. Thanks for the tip! I've never tried installation before but, figured the hood couldn't be too complex since there's no extreme angles to deal with. My ExPel installer let me do the front emblem and it seemed simple enough on that little piece. Do you know what the mixture ratio is for the alcohol & water and the baby shampoo & water?
The following 2 users liked this post by AeroTect:
eddie420 (05-01-18),
Im2bz2p345 (05-01-18)