Dings.... GRRRR
#1
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So let me just say: I love my GS. It is a ship however, definitely bigger than my landcruiser prado and wider for sure. What do you guys do about small parking bay dings, not dents, but marks on the paint. It almost seems as if the clear coat is "cracked". On the silver paint finish it leaves a white spot which you cant polish out. I was even considering that one could perhaps try and inject the stuff the use to fix chips on the windshield with as it appears the paint(clear coat) is not removed, it is just "cracked"
#2
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There are usually traveling techs, such as "Dent-Pro," "Dent Wiz," or "Dent Doctor". You might call up a few body shops or detail shops and they can refer you to a person they use, or Google it. You can expect to spend roughly $50-120 to remove a small dent but they generally charge much less to pop additional dents. It really depends on the location and how easy it is for them to access both sides of the panel. Most work is done by a traveling tech who will come to your place of employment and do the work in the parking lot.
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yes. am well aware of the usual dent dr kind of solutions. But it literally is not a dent. just a mark on the surface. It looks as if the clear coat is damaged... Just curious if someone has a solution for that?
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I have the same thing. They can be polished out. Just need to cut uncomfortably deep into the clear to get them out. My wife isn't exactly a careful person especially now that she is pregnant. So I am waiting until we move into our next house with a 3 car garage before I polish mine out.
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jonathancl (07-10-18)
#6
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I had a couple of these "cracks" on my last liquid platinum GS. Depending how deep the crack is, you may have success doing on your own. I had one on the rear fender and one on the rear bumper. I was able to hand buff out the rear fender with a combination of liquid polishing compound then applying Meguiar's Ultimate Paste (not the carnuba rather the synthetic that "fills" in fine lines). This didn't work on the deeper crack on the rear bumper though. If I still had my fast polisher, I'm certain that would have fixed it right up. Rubbing compound could also work, but I ended up selling the car before giving that a shot.
In any case, be careful if you do this on your own. Even though it's silver and it's a forgiving color, swirls still can haunt your paint from various compounds. I speak from bad experiences over the years
In any case, be careful if you do this on your own. Even though it's silver and it's a forgiving color, swirls still can haunt your paint from various compounds. I speak from bad experiences over the years
#7
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I don't know if it will work for you, but...I saw a dent guy deal with a couple whitish spots about the size of a BB (that looked to be caused by a door opening impact breaking the clearcoat layer). He had a bottle of 100% acetone fingernail polish remover that he got from CVS Pharmacy. He put a little bit of the acetone on a clean cloth and quickly rubbed the spot up-and-down, and left-and-right - all in about 1 second, using about as much pressure as you would apply to cleaning glass. Then he immediately sprayed water on the area and wiped it clean. It was as if the whitish spot on the clearcoat magically healed and totally vanished.
He said the trick was to have the acetone start fractionally melting the frayed/thinned clearcoat where it had been damaged, and before the acetone evaporated (which happens quickly) wipe the spot with a damp cloth (or quickly spray water on the spot and wipe it). In essence you are melting the tiny damaged clearcoat and smoothing it...much like with an old damaged solder joint - if you used a soldering iron to melt the old solder and reform it, the solder joint would look much better.
He said the trick was to have the acetone start fractionally melting the frayed/thinned clearcoat where it had been damaged, and before the acetone evaporated (which happens quickly) wipe the spot with a damp cloth (or quickly spray water on the spot and wipe it). In essence you are melting the tiny damaged clearcoat and smoothing it...much like with an old damaged solder joint - if you used a soldering iron to melt the old solder and reform it, the solder joint would look much better.
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#8
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I don't know if it will work for you, but...I saw a dent guy deal with a couple whitish spots about the size of a BB (that looked to be caused by a door opening impact breaking the clearcoat layer). He had a bottle of 100% acetone fingernail polish remover that he got from CVS Pharmacy. He put a little bit of the acetone on a clean cloth and quickly rubbed the spot up-and-down, and left-and-right - all in about 1 second, using about as much pressure as you would apply to cleaning glass. Then he immediately sprayed water on the area and wiped it clean. It was as if the whitish spot on the clearcoat magically healed and totally vanished.
He said the trick was to have the acetone start fractionally melting the frayed/thinned clearcoat where it had been damaged, and before the acetone evaporated (which happens quickly) wipe the spot with a damp cloth (or quickly spray water on the spot and wipe it). In essence you are melting the tiny damaged clearcoat and smoothing it...much like with an old damaged solder joint - if you used a soldering iron to melt the old solder and reform it, the solder joint would look much better.
He said the trick was to have the acetone start fractionally melting the frayed/thinned clearcoat where it had been damaged, and before the acetone evaporated (which happens quickly) wipe the spot with a damp cloth (or quickly spray water on the spot and wipe it). In essence you are melting the tiny damaged clearcoat and smoothing it...much like with an old damaged solder joint - if you used a soldering iron to melt the old solder and reform it, the solder joint would look much better.
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