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I believe that is for the glass breakage sensor (if that is the one on the right side of the unit and left side of glove box). I installed the GBS and that is where the ECU connects to. So I doubt that is the connector. I have a feeling the generator assembly might need an additional harness just like the GBS did and the power trunk and other accessories.
I found a wiring diagram but I can't figure out which wires exactly from the a.c. amplifier or were it's even located. Looks like 2 wires connect to the a.c. amp, another to a fuse(I think), and one for ground.
Does TIS give better information than this wiring diagram?
I found a wiring diagram but I can't figure out which wires exactly from the a.c. amplifier or were it's even located. Looks like 2 wires connect to the a.c. amp, another to a fuse(I think), and one for ground.
Does TIS give better information than this wiring diagram?
From what I can gather, the AC amplifier should have about two or three connectors. One of the smallest connectors on the amplifier should be the connector for the ion generator. There should be an extra harness that will probably need to be purchased since this item is typically sold overseas. I'm pretty certain this connector is not going to be on the exiting car harness. I'll dig around.
I have everything installed except for plugging it in. Even if I made a harness and plug it in who knows if the button to turn it on will show up in the head unit.
I have everything installed except for plugging it in. Even if I made a harness and plug it in who knows if the button to turn it on will show up in the head unit.
I was wondering if the U.S. head unit would suddenly have what is needed for the Ion Air Purification system too.
I have everything installed except for plugging it in. Even if I made a harness and plug it in who knows if the button to turn it on will show up in the head unit.
Here is a higher resolution picture from when I took the dash out. That connector on the right that is taped down in black electrical tape is for the GBS so disregard that. The white tube that is taped down with orange tape has a black connector attached to it with green tape labeled #5. That one is connected to thermistor for the AC and has two or three wires so what are the odds that is the cable you need? It looks JUST like the ones in the picture you posted (except mine is black, his is white)... I'd suggest looking for that cable, gives me some hope that is the one you need. Not positive but worth a shot. Can you take a good quality picture of the connector that is on ion generator? I can narrow it down on TIS by looking for that specific connector.
Here is a higher resolution picture from when I took the dash out. That connector on the right that is taped down in black electrical tape is for the GBS so disregard that. The white tube that is taped down with orange tape has a black connector attached to it with green tape labeled #5. That one is connected to thermistor for the AC and has two or three wires so what are the odds that is the cable you need? It looks JUST like the ones in the picture you posted (except mine is black, his is white)... I'd suggest looking for that cable, gives me some hope that is the one you need. Not positive but worth a shot. Can you take a good quality picture of the connector that is on ion generator? I can narrow it down on TIS by looking for that specific connector.
Here are pictures of the connector.
The white plug in that guys picture is the plug that goes into the back of the center ac vent. Yes it's the same plug, but not the correct one.
The harness is supposed to come from the right side of the head unit. Somewhere in the area marked in red.
Translated to english:
"Well, then we connect the ionizer to the existing chip already (!) In the wiring. "The Japanese are great" )
And in general, everything.
Now we collect everything back and in our climate control menu the "nanoe" button becomes active."
So Apparently if you connect it the button in the head unit just appears.
Translated to english
"We pull the wiring from the place where the ionizer stands to the climate unit, which is between the body of the stove and the fan unit"
"Pulling you need 4 wires - mass, ignition, two wires from the climate unit. I connected the ignition and the mass with the power supply of the climate unit, and pins for the connector were soldered to the control wires and pushed into the places where they should be"
Pin 1 and 4 of the ION generator connector connects to Pins 22 and 9 (respectively) of the A/C connector.
Pin 2 of the ION generator connector connects to a 10A ignition fuse under the driver side footwell (does not matter which one).
Pin 5 of the ION generator connector connects to a chassis ground (does not matter which one but one near the unit is preferred).
The head unit should detect the ion generator upon engine start and give you a button to activate or deactivate the ion generator.
Alternatively, you can wire a toggle switch. Pin 1 of the ion generator to one end of the switch, Pin 22 of the A/C connector to the other end... but this is not needed since your fuse will only get power when ignition is on.
Let me know if this makes sense and was at all helpful.
Thanks.
EDIT: Correction, the ignition fuse should be from the passenger side footwell but either works. A fuse is a fuse.
Pin 1 and 4 of the ION generator connector connects to Pins 22 and 9 (respectively) of the A/C connector.
Pin 2 of the ION generator connector connects to a 10A ignition fuse under the driver side footwell (does not matter which one).
Pin 5 of the ION generator connector connects to a chassis ground (does not matter which one but one near the unit is preferred).
The head unit should detect the ion generator upon engine start and give you a button to activate or deactivate the ion generator.
Alternatively, you can wire a toggle switch. Pin 1 of the ion generator to one end of the switch, Pin 22 of the A/C connector to the other end... but this is not needed since your fuse will only get power when ignition is on.
Let me know if this makes sense and was at all helpful.
Thanks.
Wow your explanation helps alot. From the pic above pin 5 on the AC amp is connected to an ignition fuse , do you think it's safe to tap that wire and connect it to Pin 2 on the ion generator?
I guess the next step is to check the plug from the AC amp and see if wires exist in pin 22 and pin 9, would be easy to use a T-tap. Would be surprising to see the wires exist with no harness for the ion generator.
Wow your explanation helps alot. From the pic above do you think I would have to fuse pin 5 from the AC amp if there is not already a wire there? The diagram above says there is a fuse for "RH-IG" and "LH ECU-IG". If that pin 5 is already there on the AC amp, do you think it's safe to tap that wire and connect it to Pin 2 on the ion generator?
I guess the next step is to check the plug from the AC amp and see if wires exist in pin 22 and pin 9, would be easy to use a T-tap. Would be surprising to see the wires exist with no harness for the ion generator.
I had edited my post earlier. "RH-IG" is Right Hand Ignition which is on the passenger side footwell.
IG+ means the unit gets power upon ignition only.
Not sure why you would look at Pin 5 of the AC amp since it does not relate to the Ion generator but rather the unit itself? The ion generator converts low voltage DC and steps it up to high voltage effectively decreasing the ampacity. Without knowing how much amps it is going to pull, you would be gambling by using a T tap or vampire connector to power both the head unit and ion generator off the same fuse. Regardless, I would not tap an existing fuse line since that will definitely blow the fuse. There is a reason why the ion generator has the same size fuse as the head unit... it pulls a lot of amps. Plus, I am certain that wire gauge is not suited for 20A max current so you risk frying those wires. Be safe, run your own cable lol.
I had edited my post earlier. "RH-IG" is Right Hand Ignition which is on the passenger side footwell.
IG+ means the unit gets power upon ignition only.
Not sure why you would look at Pin 5 of the AC amp since it does not relate to the Ion generator but rather the unit itself? The ion generator converts low voltage DC and steps it up to high voltage effectively decreasing the ampacity. Without knowing how much amps it is going to pull, you would be gambling by using a T tap or vampire connector to power both the head unit and ion generator off the same fuse. Regardless, I would not tap an existing fuse line since that will definitely blow the fuse. There is a reason why the ion generator has the same size fuse as the head unit... it pulls a lot of amps. Plus, I am certain that wire gauge is not suited for 20A max current so you risk frying those wires. Be safe, run your own cable lol.
you ever get this working? looking for things to add to my car now lol
I haven't gotten to it yet.
I'm getting ppf installed on Wednesday, since my whole front end(1/3 of the car) was repainted about a month ago. then on Friday getting my new rims installed. Last week I had the rest of my car professionally paint corrected and ceramic coated it myself.
Then I have to install the luxury seats I bought(but I bought a replacement back covers from Japan that won't get here till mid April since they have to make it, ones on the seat were scratched up), complete the power trunk retrofit. Later this year I'm wrapping the chrome door trim and the roof gloss black.
lol got a lot of projects to look forward to on my car.
10-13-18, 09:16 AM
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