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I would only use bearings from one of the major bearing suppliers, i.e., Koyo, F.A.G., (both sometimes reboxed as Timken). No car makers supply their own bearings. They source from these big names. Could be the difference between getting 30k vs 150k. The labor is not fun. But thankfully these are a relatively easy install vs. BMWs which require press-in. The one OP seems generic so I think that's why some have expressed concern. Bearings are no fun to install and also are a high wear item so you get what you pay for.
A couple of tips,
As far as anti-seize, it should never be applied to wheel fasteners or wheel to hub interfaces (the flat areas). Applying it to the hub seat edge (small circular portion) is fine in very very light amounts. A wheel's friction/clamp loading depends entirely on the wheel to rotor interface. Having that part lubed up can stress the fasteners prematurely over time.
It's better to completely wire brush the rotor/hub/wheel interface mating surfaces and torquing those down dry and clean for maximum clamping strength.
Fun post to read though. Good on DIYing this!
I anti-seize the lug bolts because the lug nuts need something to keep them from rusting together. I've never had one loosen up when properly torqued down. I've been doing it for 30 years. And I apply it to the hub because steel against aluminum will corrode themselves into an extreme interference fit.
As for the bearing, I'm willing to redo it if this one fails prematurely. To be honest, the factory Lexus part has already failed for whatever reason. It had good ratings and was a solid part with proper fit.
Did you have to do anything with the speed sensor? Any precautions?
It was mostly out of the way. The main thing is don't screw it up. LOL
It doesn't connect directly to the hub and is secured at the upper control arm. It might be in the way for one of the hub bolts but I didn't have any issues with it.
Keeping perfect time. Sold the old one to peasodos for some clandestine op he has planned.
Excellent! Glad to hear it.
I'm told that peasodos has plans to have your old clock modified and installed in the North Korea missile launch room for intelligence purposes to listen in on what Kim Jong-un is doing. I picked up that information on my shoe phone.
Well I decided to tackle this today. Got the hub replaced but worsened the problem. I decided to test drive it and stopped within the first 10 feet. Unbearable screeching, going to have a peek tomorrow ugh. Not excited for those Allen bolts but turns out they actually are removable so you can replace them.
Knucklebus, thanks for a great tutorial! I need to replace my front hub. Are there any major differences between front and rear? For example, the bolts on the front hub are regular hex on the backside, but easy to get to (yay!). Aside from this, are the other steps the same?
Well I decided to tackle this today. Got the hub replaced but worsened the problem. I decided to test drive it and stopped within the first 10 feet. Unbearable screeching, going to have a peek tomorrow ugh. Not excited for those Allen bolts but turns out they actually are removable so you can replace them.
How did it turn out? I hope you were successful.
Originally Posted by shrinkwrap
Knucklebus, thanks for a great tutorial! I need to replace my front hub. Are there any major differences between front and rear? For example, the bolts on the front hub are regular hex on the backside, but easy to get to (yay!). Aside from this, are the other steps the same?
I have not investigated the front bearing BUT I can't imagine it is very different other than a tie rod end and no parking brake to get in the way. From other front axles I've dealt with, I wouldn't be afraid to tackle it if the rear one doesn't scare you.
Hey Knucklebus, 2 more questions for you re: the hub replacement. Is a slide hammer hub puller necessary (is the sudden force of a 4 or 5 lb slide hammer required to pull the hub), or can a puller that uses a set screw that is turned slowly against the axle shaft be used instead?
Also, I have a 32mm axle socket and a 12pt axle nut (Lexus part), but the nut feels a bit loose in the socket; I don't want to strip the nut when I install it or mess up the torque setting. I know you said you used a 32mm 12pt socket. Did yours feel loose too? Thanks!
Hey Knucklebus, 2 more questions for you re: the hub replacement. Is a slide hammer hub puller necessary (is the sudden force of a 4 or 5 lb slide hammer required to pull the hub), or can a puller that uses a set screw that is turned slowly against the axle shaft be used instead?
Also, I have a 32mm axle socket and a 12pt axle nut (Lexus part), but the nut feels a bit loose in the socket; I don't want to strip the nut when I install it or mess up the torque setting. I know you said you used a 32mm 12pt socket. Did yours feel loose too? Thanks!
First, a regular puller is probably workable if you have one already that you can attach. The slide hammer really works well since it can bolt to the wheel studs. I use slide hammers on my other cars so it was what I thought of.
Second, when you get as big as 32mm, there's more meat than if you had say a 12mm or 14mm nut. The socket I used was pretty solid and I had no issues torquing it down.
Did you buy a new nut? If so, measure it to see if it is truly 32mm then also measure the socket. One could be out of tolerance. I rented mine from Advance Auto as I've never needed a 32mm socket before. I have a 1 1/8" socket that was too small. I have, in a pinch when stranded, used strips of aluminum cans to decrease clearance between nuts and sockets when I needed a size I didn't have. It deforms easily and doesn't harm either the socket or the nut.
Just finished. Everything worked out. By the way, just in case someone else who is doing the front, not rear, sees this, the axle nut was loose in the 32mm socket because it is a 30mm nut. Not sure if there is a difference between front and rear or if it’s my car (2013 GS350 AWD base). Knucklebus, thanks again!
Just finished. Everything worked out. By the way, just in case someone else who is doing the front, not rear, sees this, the axle nut was loose in the 32mm socket because it is a 30mm nut. Not sure if there is a difference between front and rear or if it’s my car (2013 GS350 AWD base). Knucklebus, thanks again!
Ah, that would explain the difference if it was only 30mm!
Good job.
How different was it from the rear I detailed? Did you need your puller and was that easy to also use?
03-06-20, 11:31 AM
