Fourth Generation Lexus GS 350 Rear Axle Hub Replacement
05-24-20, 09:43 AM
#31
I didn’t want to risk getting stuck, so I borrowed a slide hammer (and 30mm socket) from Autozone, no charge. Took 4 blows to come off, but otherwise exactly as you described. The 4 backside bolts are regular 17mm hex, easily accessible, and came off easily. Didn’t even need penetrating oil. I did have to put the tire on and lower the car to place tension when I tightened the new nut. All in all a relatively easy job.
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Knucklebus (05-24-20)
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Knucklebus (05-27-20)
05-26-20, 08:33 PM
#33
Driver School Candidate
Well I got the hub assembly changed, tires rotated and balanced, all new brakes all around (I needed them anyways and resurfaced my front rotors) but my problem still exists.So now I am stuck. Wondering if I should replaced the hub under the store warranty and change it once again?
Also for anyone changing the rear hub assembly in the future, you absolutely must buy a long 10mm allen socket. This tool will save you 1+ hours!!!!!!
@Knucklebus The allen bolts were so hard to remove only because you weren't using a "long" allen socket. I purchased a set at homedepot (couldn't find anywhere else) nd it made the job so much easier since the socket was not rubbing against the axle.
Also for anyone changing the rear hub assembly in the future, you absolutely must buy a long 10mm allen socket. This tool will save you 1+ hours!!!!!!
@Knucklebus The allen bolts were so hard to remove only because you weren't using a "long" allen socket. I purchased a set at homedepot (couldn't find anywhere else) nd it made the job so much easier since the socket was not rubbing against the axle.
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Knucklebus (05-27-20)
05-27-20, 04:12 AM
#34
Sorry to hear about your issue. Have you tried spinning the tire by hand and listening to tray and locate the source of the problem? Is it possible that the brake dust shield may be bent and is touching another metal part, such as the inside of the wheel? Unlikely, but easy enough to check. Unless the hub you bought was especially cheaply made, it's hard to imagine that the new part itself is bad to this degree. Please keep us posted. Best of luck!
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Knucklebus (05-27-20)
05-27-20, 02:46 PM
#35
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well I got the hub assembly changed, tires rotated and balanced, all new brakes all around (I needed them anyways and resurfaced my front rotors) but my problem still exists.So now I am stuck. Wondering if I should replaced the hub under the store warranty and change it once again?
Also for anyone changing the rear hub assembly in the future, you absolutely must buy a long 10mm allen socket. This tool will save you 1+ hours!!!!!!
@Knucklebus The allen bolts were so hard to remove only because you weren't using a "long" allen socket. I purchased a set at homedepot (couldn't find anywhere else) nd it made the job so much easier since the socket was not rubbing against the axle.
Also for anyone changing the rear hub assembly in the future, you absolutely must buy a long 10mm allen socket. This tool will save you 1+ hours!!!!!!
@Knucklebus The allen bolts were so hard to remove only because you weren't using a "long" allen socket. I purchased a set at homedepot (couldn't find anywhere else) nd it made the job so much easier since the socket was not rubbing against the axle.
As for your continued noise. Can you describe it? Mine sounded like a really loud tire. It got louder on a right turn and stopped on a left turn. That's how we figured it was the left rear. Did the old bearing feel tight as in didn't turn freely or turn notchy like it had detents? Was it wobbly and the seal was obviously blown out of it?
05-28-20, 07:54 PM
#36
Driver School Candidate
It wasn't that huge of a problem but I'll remember that should I need to repeat the process. I have wobbly extensions that help.
As for your continued noise. Can you describe it? Mine sounded like a really loud tire. It got louder on a right turn and stopped on a left turn. That's how we figured it was the left rear. Did the old bearing feel tight as in didn't turn freely or turn notchy like it had detents? Was it wobbly and the seal was obviously blown out of it?
As for your continued noise. Can you describe it? Mine sounded like a really loud tire. It got louder on a right turn and stopped on a left turn. That's how we figured it was the left rear. Did the old bearing feel tight as in didn't turn freely or turn notchy like it had detents? Was it wobbly and the seal was obviously blown out of it?
05-28-20, 08:30 PM
#37
Instructor
Thread Starter
right now I've actually got this problem as well but instead of the rear hub, I think I've narrowed it down to the front left instead. for me it's like partial scraping sounds as the car moves, disappears while turning left, and is enhanced while turning right. with the car off and on the jack, rotating the front left wheel by itself I can hear the sound by just rotating the wheel by itself. unfortunately, the scraping sounds are loud enough for me to notice that bystanders flip their head around to see what the noise is...(on a GS350 AWD)
First, I'd take the wheel off and see if it still does it. If so, the next thing I'd do is remove the caliper or at least back the pads off. Some pads just won't be quiet until they are hot and sound like metal on metal rubbing.
If it still does it, pull the rotor off and put it on backward so you have something to turn with. At that point, you've removed all the things that can make noise except the actual bearing or something close that sounds like it is coming from that area.
If it doesn't make noise without the rotor/caliper on, it is most likely a bent backing dust cover. You should be able to see a shiny spot where it was rubbing the rotor or something.
Again, pictures or a video of it from someone outside the car would help diagnose it.
05-28-20, 08:43 PM
#38
Driver School Candidate
On a jack stand, with the car off and in neutral, you can hear the noise? If so, that's good since it is easily reproducible. Braking does or does not change the action?
First, I'd take the wheel off and see if it still does it. If so, the next thing I'd do is remove the caliper or at least back the pads off. Some pads just won't be quiet until they are hot and sound like metal on metal rubbing.
If it still does it, pull the rotor off and put it on backward so you have something to turn with. At that point, you've removed all the things that can make noise except the actual bearing or something close that sounds like it is coming from that area.
If it doesn't make noise without the rotor/caliper on, it is most likely a bent backing dust cover. You should be able to see a shiny spot where it was rubbing the rotor or something.
Again, pictures or a video of it from someone outside the car would help diagnose it.
First, I'd take the wheel off and see if it still does it. If so, the next thing I'd do is remove the caliper or at least back the pads off. Some pads just won't be quiet until they are hot and sound like metal on metal rubbing.
If it still does it, pull the rotor off and put it on backward so you have something to turn with. At that point, you've removed all the things that can make noise except the actual bearing or something close that sounds like it is coming from that area.
If it doesn't make noise without the rotor/caliper on, it is most likely a bent backing dust cover. You should be able to see a shiny spot where it was rubbing the rotor or something.
Again, pictures or a video of it from someone outside the car would help diagnose it.
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Knucklebus (05-29-20)
05-29-20, 06:03 AM
#40
Instructor
Thread Starter
haha! I did just that over this past weekend, spent almost 2 hours on it. I even went as far as rotating the front right wheel to see if the sound was being replicated on that one. unfortunately it does seem like it's the hub as the brake dust shield is dirty as ever (from the great canadian winters). one thing I would add is that the sound is very hard to notice when everything has been taken off and turning the hub by itself, it's most noticeable when the brake and wheel is on and rotating the wheel then - perhaps it would help someone else diagnose too! will try to get some videos of it to demonstrate.
06-01-20, 08:26 PM
#41
Driver School Candidate
It was an OEM Lexus hub. finally got a chance to drive the car today after much excessive banging of the dust shield. turns out - it was the dust shield, only thing being I couldn't find anything shiny on the dust shield so i have no idea where it was rubbing. I guess it saved me a bunch of money. but this is still good for future reference. fingers crossed!
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jonathancl (06-02-20)
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Knucklebus (11-16-20)
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Knucklebus (03-22-21)
03-25-21, 03:49 PM
#44
Driver School Candidate
Be sure to remove the SPEED SENSOR or else....
Just finished replacing mine. It was very straightforward EXCEPT the ABS Speed Sensor and dust cover it slides in. I did not remove my sensor based on this diy because it was indicated to be unnecessary and out of the way. To the contrary, at least on a 2014 RWD GS350, if you don't remove the speed sensor and line up its hole through the dust cover while you tighten things down, you may do what I did- absolutely toast the Speed Sensor, which is now a $300 item on 4th Gen instead of $25 on 3rd gen. After I thought I had finished, took a one block ride and the ABS, Brake System and Traction lights lit. Went right back home and took it apart to find the speed sensor crushed and broken. I straightened out the dust cover and lined up the hole with a phillips head screwdriver hanging down though the sensor hole and wiggled it a couple of times to properly align it while tightening. Now I await my new $300 speed sensor with wiring that goes quite a route. And I can only hope I did not damage the ring.
03-25-21, 05:38 PM
#45
Instructor
Thread Starter
Just finished replacing mine. It was very straightforward EXCEPT the ABS Speed Sensor and dust cover it slides in. I did not remove my sensor based on this diy because it was indicated to be unnecessary and out of the way. To the contrary, at least on a 2014 RWD GS350, if you don't remove the speed sensor and line up its hole through the dust cover while you tighten things down, you may do what I did- absolutely toast the Speed Sensor, which is now a $300 item on 4th Gen instead of $25 on 3rd gen. After I thought I had finished, took a one block ride and the ABS, Brake System and Traction lights lit. Went right back home and took it apart to find the speed sensor crushed and broken. I straightened out the dust cover and lined up the hole with a phillips head screwdriver hanging down though the sensor hole and wiggled it a couple of times to properly align it while tightening. Now I await my new $300 speed sensor with wiring that goes quite a route. And I can only hope I did not damage the ring.