Anyone know where the fuel rail pressure sensor connector is?
05-26-19, 03:26 PM
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Anyone know where the fuel rail pressure sensor connector is?
Hi everyone trying to get my car starting again and was wondering if anyone knows where the fuel pressure sensor connector was located? I read that if you disconnect that 1 in 10 times the car will start and can isolate that as the problem.
01-13-21, 11:56 AM
#3
Driver School Candidate
The fuel pressure sensor failed in my '07 IS350 earlier this year and the replacement is fairly straightforward. It's not a complicated repair and $2700 dollars for repair is OUTRAGEOUS ! I purchased the replacement sensor off of Ebay for approx $30 which included a lifetime warranty for the part but it's Toyota # 89458-30010. The sensor is a standard Toyota part and is readily found but don't forget to also purchase the crush washer,Toyota # 90430-12026 since the new sensor does not come with a new washer. The washers are cheap and I would advise you to buy more than one in case you drop one in an inaccessible location.
Here's an accurate and fairly comprehensive description of how the sensor is accessed.
It's a straightforward job and looks a little intimidating at first but it's really fairly simple. Accomplishing the replacement took me approx two hours from start to finish and I think I could easily do it in half that time after doing it once. I took my sweet time and cleaned parts as the came off the car which took up most of my time. The basic architecture of the 2.5 and 3.5 litre engines is so similar it won't matter whether the repair is a 2.5 or 3.5 litre engine.
I did not use any sealant on the sensor and just want to snug it to a reasonable torque and do not overtighten ! If it's not leaking fuel, it's more than likely plenty tight. You will not be able to get a torque wrench on the sensor and that's the only part of the job that may give you a little unease. From memory, I think it was about 1/4-1/3 of a turn from when the sensor bottomed against the washer is about where I tightened mine. There were no leaks and it's been trouble free since. Also there are intake manifold and throttle body gaskets that you may want to replace but more than likely the existing ones will be fine. I purchased new and wound up not using them because mine were in excellent shape, not brittle, very pliable, etc..... You may want to have those on hand though so you can complete the job in case you don't like the looks of the old ones. I think the total for all the possible gaskets that may need replacement was well less than $50. I purchased Toyota # DNJ IG964 for the intake manifold, and Toyota # 94198TK for the throttle body but didn't use any of them so I now have a spare set in case I need to go back into the intake tract.
Here's an accurate and fairly comprehensive description of how the sensor is accessed.
It's a straightforward job and looks a little intimidating at first but it's really fairly simple. Accomplishing the replacement took me approx two hours from start to finish and I think I could easily do it in half that time after doing it once. I took my sweet time and cleaned parts as the came off the car which took up most of my time. The basic architecture of the 2.5 and 3.5 litre engines is so similar it won't matter whether the repair is a 2.5 or 3.5 litre engine.
I did not use any sealant on the sensor and just want to snug it to a reasonable torque and do not overtighten ! If it's not leaking fuel, it's more than likely plenty tight. You will not be able to get a torque wrench on the sensor and that's the only part of the job that may give you a little unease. From memory, I think it was about 1/4-1/3 of a turn from when the sensor bottomed against the washer is about where I tightened mine. There were no leaks and it's been trouble free since. Also there are intake manifold and throttle body gaskets that you may want to replace but more than likely the existing ones will be fine. I purchased new and wound up not using them because mine were in excellent shape, not brittle, very pliable, etc..... You may want to have those on hand though so you can complete the job in case you don't like the looks of the old ones. I think the total for all the possible gaskets that may need replacement was well less than $50. I purchased Toyota # DNJ IG964 for the intake manifold, and Toyota # 94198TK for the throttle body but didn't use any of them so I now have a spare set in case I need to go back into the intake tract.
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Jay2IS (01-17-22)
01-17-22, 08:24 PM
#4
The fuel pressure sensor failed in my '07 IS350 earlier this year and the replacement is fairly straightforward. It's not a complicated repair and $2700 dollars for repair is OUTRAGEOUS ! I purchased the replacement sensor off of Ebay for approx $30 which included a lifetime warranty for the part but it's Toyota # 89458-30010. The sensor is a standard Toyota part and is readily found but don't forget to also purchase the crush washer,Toyota # 90430-12026 since the new sensor does not come with a new washer. The washers are cheap and I would advise you to buy more than one in case you drop one in an inaccessible location.
Here's an accurate and fairly comprehensive description of how the sensor is accessed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHiU...F&index=8&t=3s
It's a straightforward job and looks a little intimidating at first but it's really fairly simple. Accomplishing the replacement took me approx two hours from start to finish and I think I could easily do it in half that time after doing it once. I took my sweet time and cleaned parts as the came off the car which took up most of my time. The basic architecture of the 2.5 and 3.5 litre engines is so similar it won't matter whether the repair is a 2.5 or 3.5 litre engine.
I did not use any sealant on the sensor and just want to snug it to a reasonable torque and do not overtighten ! If it's not leaking fuel, it's more than likely plenty tight. You will not be able to get a torque wrench on the sensor and that's the only part of the job that may give you a little unease. From memory, I think it was about 1/4-1/3 of a turn from when the sensor bottomed against the washer is about where I tightened mine. There were no leaks and it's been trouble free since. Also there are intake manifold and throttle body gaskets that you may want to replace but more than likely the existing ones will be fine. I purchased new and wound up not using them because mine were in excellent shape, not brittle, very pliable, etc..... You may want to have those on hand though so you can complete the job in case you don't like the looks of the old ones. I think the total for all the possible gaskets that may need replacement was well less than $50. I purchased Toyota # DNJ IG964 for the intake manifold, and Toyota # 94198TK for the throttle body but didn't use any of them so I now have a spare set in case I need to go back into the intake tract.
Here's an accurate and fairly comprehensive description of how the sensor is accessed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHiU...F&index=8&t=3s
It's a straightforward job and looks a little intimidating at first but it's really fairly simple. Accomplishing the replacement took me approx two hours from start to finish and I think I could easily do it in half that time after doing it once. I took my sweet time and cleaned parts as the came off the car which took up most of my time. The basic architecture of the 2.5 and 3.5 litre engines is so similar it won't matter whether the repair is a 2.5 or 3.5 litre engine.
I did not use any sealant on the sensor and just want to snug it to a reasonable torque and do not overtighten ! If it's not leaking fuel, it's more than likely plenty tight. You will not be able to get a torque wrench on the sensor and that's the only part of the job that may give you a little unease. From memory, I think it was about 1/4-1/3 of a turn from when the sensor bottomed against the washer is about where I tightened mine. There were no leaks and it's been trouble free since. Also there are intake manifold and throttle body gaskets that you may want to replace but more than likely the existing ones will be fine. I purchased new and wound up not using them because mine were in excellent shape, not brittle, very pliable, etc..... You may want to have those on hand though so you can complete the job in case you don't like the looks of the old ones. I think the total for all the possible gaskets that may need replacement was well less than $50. I purchased Toyota # DNJ IG964 for the intake manifold, and Toyota # 94198TK for the throttle body but didn't use any of them so I now have a spare set in case I need to go back into the intake tract.
01-17-22, 10:28 PM
#5
Driver School Candidate
I looked and looked trying to determine if there was a way to diagnose a failed fuel pressure sensor and couldn't find any procedure to accomplish that. Using common sense, it was obvious the starter was working, also somewhat obvious the fuel pump was working as well as the ignition system because I could start the car momentarily if I reset the start system by disconnecting the battery. The car would not restart unless the battery was disconnected and then reconnected no matter what else I did and it was coincidental that I discovered that !
I think the problem began when I had not driven the car for about 2 months and the battery ran down probably due to age. The car started fine the morning the fuel pressure sensor failed and I was idling the car, waiting for my wife and without thinking about the weak battery (engine turned over slower than normal). I turned the seat heaters on and the engine immediately died and would not restart. After the car died, it would fail the self test start sequence and I'd have a real weak amber start button. I realized it was probably due to a weak battery so I put a battery charger on the battery without disconnecting the battery from the car.
I think the fuel pressure sensor may have failed when I connected the battery charger to the car without disconnecting the battery. I believe the engine died when the battery voltage couldn't make up the system voltage deficit associated with turning on the seat heaters and the engine at low idle. It was the clicking sound of some relays that made me realize that the car was somewhere between run and off after the battery voltage had been restored to normal but I had been away from the car for awhile since I was allowing the charger some time to do it's work. So that's a lesson learned, I will never attempt charging a connected battery again ! "Stray" electricity can create problems and I suspect that is what caused the fuel pressure sensor failure but I don't know for sure. Once the system voltage was back to normal, I suspect the car's logic believed the engine was running and fuel pressure sensor was calling for more fuel due to "low" rpm and it burned itself out but that's just a guess. I have a DTC code reader but it was no help either because apparently, there isn't a fault code for a failed fuel pressure sensor.
Try disconnecting and then reconnecting your battery (assuming you have a good battery) and if the car starts but dies quickly, that is exactly what my car was doing. Once the car has been started it would not restart unless the battery was disconnected and then reconnected after a few minutes. It was messing around with the battery that I accidently discovered the problem wasn't the security system, starter, fuel pump, fusible link, etc... Of course I had already checked all fuses, relays, etc. and could find nothing else that was obvious.
I hope this helps. I found very little information in diagnosing my problem.
I think the problem began when I had not driven the car for about 2 months and the battery ran down probably due to age. The car started fine the morning the fuel pressure sensor failed and I was idling the car, waiting for my wife and without thinking about the weak battery (engine turned over slower than normal). I turned the seat heaters on and the engine immediately died and would not restart. After the car died, it would fail the self test start sequence and I'd have a real weak amber start button. I realized it was probably due to a weak battery so I put a battery charger on the battery without disconnecting the battery from the car.
I think the fuel pressure sensor may have failed when I connected the battery charger to the car without disconnecting the battery. I believe the engine died when the battery voltage couldn't make up the system voltage deficit associated with turning on the seat heaters and the engine at low idle. It was the clicking sound of some relays that made me realize that the car was somewhere between run and off after the battery voltage had been restored to normal but I had been away from the car for awhile since I was allowing the charger some time to do it's work. So that's a lesson learned, I will never attempt charging a connected battery again ! "Stray" electricity can create problems and I suspect that is what caused the fuel pressure sensor failure but I don't know for sure. Once the system voltage was back to normal, I suspect the car's logic believed the engine was running and fuel pressure sensor was calling for more fuel due to "low" rpm and it burned itself out but that's just a guess. I have a DTC code reader but it was no help either because apparently, there isn't a fault code for a failed fuel pressure sensor.
Try disconnecting and then reconnecting your battery (assuming you have a good battery) and if the car starts but dies quickly, that is exactly what my car was doing. Once the car has been started it would not restart unless the battery was disconnected and then reconnected after a few minutes. It was messing around with the battery that I accidently discovered the problem wasn't the security system, starter, fuel pump, fusible link, etc... Of course I had already checked all fuses, relays, etc. and could find nothing else that was obvious.
I hope this helps. I found very little information in diagnosing my problem.
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Jay2IS (01-19-22)
01-18-22, 09:22 PM
#6
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just curious as to why you think disconnecting the fuel rail pressure sensor would start the car? the sensor is for the computer to monitor and assist in fuel trims when the car is running. it is not a component that assist the starting of the car.
01-19-22, 08:36 PM
#7
I looked and looked trying to determine if there was a way to diagnose a failed fuel pressure sensor and couldn't find any procedure to accomplish that. Using common sense, it was obvious the starter was working, also somewhat obvious the fuel pump was working as well as the ignition system because I could start the car momentarily if I reset the start system by disconnecting the battery. The car would not restart unless the battery was disconnected and then reconnected no matter what else I did and it was coincidental that I discovered that !
I think the problem began when I had not driven the car for about 2 months and the battery ran down probably due to age. The car started fine the morning the fuel pressure sensor failed and I was idling the car, waiting for my wife and without thinking about the weak battery (engine turned over slower than normal). I turned the seat heaters on and the engine immediately died and would not restart. After the car died, it would fail the self test start sequence and I'd have a real weak amber start button. I realized it was probably due to a weak battery so I put a battery charger on the battery without disconnecting the battery from the car.
I think the fuel pressure sensor may have failed when I connected the battery charger to the car without disconnecting the battery. I believe the engine died when the battery voltage couldn't make up the system voltage deficit associated with turning on the seat heaters and the engine at low idle. It was the clicking sound of some relays that made me realize that the car was somewhere between run and off after the battery voltage had been restored to normal but I had been away from the car for awhile since I was allowing the charger some time to do it's work. So that's a lesson learned, I will never attempt charging a connected battery again ! "Stray" electricity can create problems and I suspect that is what caused the fuel pressure sensor failure but I don't know for sure. Once the system voltage was back to normal, I suspect the car's logic believed the engine was running and fuel pressure sensor was calling for more fuel due to "low" rpm and it burned itself out but that's just a guess. I have a DTC code reader but it was no help either because apparently, there isn't a fault code for a failed fuel pressure sensor.
Try disconnecting and then reconnecting your battery (assuming you have a good battery) and if the car starts but dies quickly, that is exactly what my car was doing. Once the car has been started it would not restart unless the battery was disconnected and then reconnected after a few minutes. It was messing around with the battery that I accidently discovered the problem wasn't the security system, starter, fuel pump, fusible link, etc... Of course I had already checked all fuses, relays, etc. and could find nothing else that was obvious.
I hope this helps. I found very little information in diagnosing my problem.
I think the problem began when I had not driven the car for about 2 months and the battery ran down probably due to age. The car started fine the morning the fuel pressure sensor failed and I was idling the car, waiting for my wife and without thinking about the weak battery (engine turned over slower than normal). I turned the seat heaters on and the engine immediately died and would not restart. After the car died, it would fail the self test start sequence and I'd have a real weak amber start button. I realized it was probably due to a weak battery so I put a battery charger on the battery without disconnecting the battery from the car.
I think the fuel pressure sensor may have failed when I connected the battery charger to the car without disconnecting the battery. I believe the engine died when the battery voltage couldn't make up the system voltage deficit associated with turning on the seat heaters and the engine at low idle. It was the clicking sound of some relays that made me realize that the car was somewhere between run and off after the battery voltage had been restored to normal but I had been away from the car for awhile since I was allowing the charger some time to do it's work. So that's a lesson learned, I will never attempt charging a connected battery again ! "Stray" electricity can create problems and I suspect that is what caused the fuel pressure sensor failure but I don't know for sure. Once the system voltage was back to normal, I suspect the car's logic believed the engine was running and fuel pressure sensor was calling for more fuel due to "low" rpm and it burned itself out but that's just a guess. I have a DTC code reader but it was no help either because apparently, there isn't a fault code for a failed fuel pressure sensor.
Try disconnecting and then reconnecting your battery (assuming you have a good battery) and if the car starts but dies quickly, that is exactly what my car was doing. Once the car has been started it would not restart unless the battery was disconnected and then reconnected after a few minutes. It was messing around with the battery that I accidently discovered the problem wasn't the security system, starter, fuel pump, fusible link, etc... Of course I had already checked all fuses, relays, etc. and could find nothing else that was obvious.
I hope this helps. I found very little information in diagnosing my problem.
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01-20-22, 11:58 AM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Here's the part that I purchased; https://www.ebay.com/itm/313150900558 Sorry, I can't find the crush washers purchase history on Ebay or Amazon and figure I must have bought them directly from a Toyota or a Lexus dealer and I didn't save the receipt nor did I record the part number in the car's logbook...
I'm not sure what you mean by your car will not start or even in accessory mode but to clarify, my car would only start ONCE and that was only after completely disconnecting the battery, allowing a few minutes and then reconnecting. After the car had been started once, the starter would not engage, regardless of what I tried such as pulling fuses, relays, etc. The battery had to be completely disconnected, I'd wait about 5 minutes, reconnect the battery and only then would the car self test properly and then start but quickly shut down.. I could repeat that process over and over but unless I had fully disconnected the battery, the car was not going to engage the starter. Any subsequent start attempts would result in NOTHING, ie; starter not engage, fuel pump run, etc. unless the battery was completely disconnected again. Make sense ?
I do remember finding a menu of fault codes that could be read from a DTC reader and I noticed there was nothing regarding fuel pressure sensor. The one electrical schematic I was able to find also didn't show a fault circuit for the FPS but I had no way to verify the information was accurate. I figured, for the relatively cheap price, I could simply replace the sensor but I also realized that if the the "new" sensor was bad, how would I know it was bad ? But what were the chances of the new sensor being faulty ???
Believe me, I was relieved when I pressed the start button and the car fired right up after the replacement sensor had been installed. Car has been fine since and I've had no abnormal or unusual issues since.
I'm not sure what you mean by your car will not start or even in accessory mode but to clarify, my car would only start ONCE and that was only after completely disconnecting the battery, allowing a few minutes and then reconnecting. After the car had been started once, the starter would not engage, regardless of what I tried such as pulling fuses, relays, etc. The battery had to be completely disconnected, I'd wait about 5 minutes, reconnect the battery and only then would the car self test properly and then start but quickly shut down.. I could repeat that process over and over but unless I had fully disconnected the battery, the car was not going to engage the starter. Any subsequent start attempts would result in NOTHING, ie; starter not engage, fuel pump run, etc. unless the battery was completely disconnected again. Make sense ?
I do remember finding a menu of fault codes that could be read from a DTC reader and I noticed there was nothing regarding fuel pressure sensor. The one electrical schematic I was able to find also didn't show a fault circuit for the FPS but I had no way to verify the information was accurate. I figured, for the relatively cheap price, I could simply replace the sensor but I also realized that if the the "new" sensor was bad, how would I know it was bad ? But what were the chances of the new sensor being faulty ???
Believe me, I was relieved when I pressed the start button and the car fired right up after the replacement sensor had been installed. Car has been fine since and I've had no abnormal or unusual issues since.
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