terrryz

My car is 2015 GS350 non-F Sport.

The car starts to have squeaking noise during cold start when I back it out from driveway. I am thinking of replace all the pads or even the rotors myself. I have all the tools and have done similar stuff on my previous car.

I have checked the user manual, it does not say the minimum thickness for both front and rear rotors. Does anyone know the minimum thickness for the rotors?

The manual does say about the minimum thickness (about 1mm) for the pads, is there any easy way of inspecting the pad thickness without taking it out?

Also can anyone recommend pads and rotors? Should I just get OEM parts from lexuspartsnow? I would prefer a little stronger initial bite.

Much appreciated

bob256k

Get OEM parts , including the shim kit, and if you are going to do it yourself get a techstream 3 day membership.

swat1727

iTrader: (2)

Why do you need tech stream for brakes?

AJLex19

@terrryz i'd go OEM since its not much cheaper aftermarket. Shop around and look at SSL-parts.com and MyLParts.com to see who has the best prices OEM prices on brakes/rotors. Helpful thread on pad thickness: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-question.html

Zsikd

I’d go with OEM. I got my full set of rotors + pads for my AWD GS from Bell Lexus off eBay for $500 with shipping... no problems at all!

NickMayer

Also have a '15 non F-sport
I did front brakes and rotors and bought after market ceramic pads (akebono performance for $60) from amazon, and OEM rotors from lexusparts. Spent $200 total, then paid a guy to come change them for me. All in all I paid $350. More than worth it.

terrryz

After looking at some other threads, it appears that the pads would normally start at 11mm (6/32 inch) when new and need replacement at about 6mm (2/32 - 3/32 inch).
However, I still have not found such info on the rotor.

The videos on youtube makes believe this is a rather straightforwrad job, maybe 30min on each axle.

peasodos

iTrader: (1)

You don't need a TIS membership, the brake pads are so easy to change on this car, just pins hold it in the front and take out one bolt in the rear to swing the caliper out the way to remove rears.

Also you don't need to change the rotor unless you have a significantly noticeable lip on the edge. My last car 232k miles I changed the front rotor once and that wasn't till over 100k miles. Unless your tracking the car or driving/breaking like an idiot on the street your rotors don't have to be changed every pad change under 100k.

Also 2 bolts on the back side hold the entire caliper assembly on, you would take that off to remove the rotor. Toyota/Honda have the notorious rotor screws that usually seize, If you don't take it off correctly you will strip the head and end up having to drill it out or at least the head off.

Also the pads have a squeaker on the side if the pads are worn close to this it's time to change them. There is also a tool on amazon to easily push back the pistons on the front rotors.

er34

Techstream might be for bleeding the brakes, which you might as well do while you are replacing the pads/rotors.

Yes, you can do it without, but the Techstream exercises the ABS actuators to refresh the fluid there as well, it's not a must but I do it.

Whatever you do, make sure to top up the reservoir after doing each wheel.

bob256k

Fair enough you probably wont need the manual, but a day pass is like $15, depends on what you want.

terrryz

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I will just change the pads and not worry about the rotor. My car is only at 46k miles.

EyeKutr

iTrader: (5)

Hmmmm....not sure on this buddy, A lot of us drive spirited, perhaps like idiots. My OEM rotors were badly warped and I swapped them at 70k. I dont think the typical gs350 driver on this forum babies the brakes

Cwang

I believe it's 30mm from the factory and 27mm when it's time to replace it.

marjenmill

I have a 2015 GS350 non-f sport too. Replacing the front brake pads is SUPER easy. Takes more time to jack up the car and take off the tire than it does to change the pads. google a youtube video on it. There is a long rod held in place with a pin. Pull the pin, tap out the rod, remove a metal bracket, remove the pads, put the shims from the old pads to the new ones (put a little anti-squeal gel between them), push back the calipers (I used a C clamp, but pliers would work too), put in the new pads and reverse the uninstall.

I replaced my pads with OEM even though they only lasted 38,000 miles. Didn't want the potential hassle of squeals. Did not turn or replace the rotor...no need to.

I have pads to replace the back set, but they don't need it yet.

drgrant

If it was me I would dump the rotors at the same time.

The transactional costs of having to go back and do the rotors later are stupid, just get it all done at once and then not have to worry about anything for another 40K or whatever.

-Mike