Infotainment Broken after battery replacement
12-10-19, 12:57 PM
#121
Lexus Test Driver
I'm still waiting for my new radio, I think they have to order it from Japan. Even my old CD Walkman is more reliable than this.
The following users liked this post:
Cal916 (12-10-19)
12-10-19, 01:40 PM
#122
Apparently disconnecting his battery, same thing you would do in replacing the battery, did not fry his head unit again. I've actually removed the head unit without disconnecting the battery and never had a problem, none of those plugs are receiving any power when the car is off.
It doesn't make sense to me why in 2013 Lexus would've used a HDD. Why not an SSD or even at that point, a flash card? Why'd they have to wait till 2015 to JUST implement an already existing technology.
The following users liked this post:
Im2bz2p345 (12-11-19)
12-10-19, 11:10 PM
#123
Lexus is slow to implement new technology vs existing time tested ones. They have been using 4200 rpm platter hard drives for a long time. There are cars on the road driving 20 years and the hard drive never failed. Heck I can still fire up my parents old windows 95 computer with platter hard drive and it works. The sd card nav is better and no hard drive spinning noise, more noticeable in a 450h when it is in all electric with the engine off at night.
The following users liked this post:
Im2bz2p345 (12-11-19)
12-17-19, 03:31 AM
#124
Driver School Candidate
Hey everyone, I might be able to help shed some light on what happens or causes the units to seemingly just 'fail'.
I'm an electronic service tech in NZ, specialising in the repair of automotive audio/nav units, for the last 25 years.
So after reading through all the posts, there are 2 possibilities that come to mind, and I've seen both situations multiple times (not necessarily with just Lexus):
1. Lexus/Toyota units cold boot up from scratch if it has been removed/unplugged, or if the battery has gone flat or removed. This is normal of course, but it is a critical time. If a battery was removed, normally the key is off, the system won't power up, and with the key/vehicle off, battery replacement should be safe (assuming correct procedures by the tech/person). However, what we have seen is instances where in the Lexus the battery was drained, and a jump pack (or other vehicle) was used to start the flat vehicle, and this is where you have to be careful and not for the obvious reasons. The infotainment unit will start to cold reboot from scratch as soon as you turn the key to Accessory/On, and most will continue to then crank the car over, because you want to get going right? But starting the motor disconnects the Accessory position while cranking to put all power to cranking, and then you have just interrupted the boot process.
Several things can happen from there, it could restart booting and be fine, or some of either hdd data or internal flash memory could have been corrupted, which may or may not be in the critical boot area it was attempting to boot from, and no longer work, or some other non critical part may now not work.
It's a bit like this, turn your laptop on and while it's booting up from complete power off, yank the battery out in the middle of it booting. You could be lucky and it will reboot again and be fine, or you could now have a brick.
So how do you prevent this? really simple, when the Lexus (or any brand car for that matter) is being started from dead/no battery, turn the key to accessory (or ON) and WAIT for it to finish booting (and perhaps go to audio source, so you know it is now in 'normal functionality', THEN crank it over to start the motor.
2. The other issue we have seen (admittedly in another vehicle brand but could apply) is internal memory failure, but not the reason most think either. There is some clever self checking internal firmware that checks itself on certain power up times, or after an error is detected in some way, it's not known for sure exactly when unfortunately, and the manufacturers are tight lipped about it all. For this particular system I'm talking about, this is not obvious to the user, and happens in the background in the seconds it takes the units to power up. The good thing is this unit has some backup of part of the firmware, and when some error seems to be detected, we believe it marks the block as bad in the internal nand flash, and creates a new block, because they designed it to have X amount of extra available memory in nand flash to allow for X quantity of such errors, and your system continues working and the user has no idea.
Good idea in theory, but internal nand flash is just a memory chip with a limited amount of space, and we believe the design engineer(s) perhaps didn't anticipate maybe just how many potential small errors were created in the real world application (vehicle low battery, sudden voltage drop, noisy power lines, jump starting etc etc), again, it's not too clear, but what we do know is that it runs out of room to copy/correct itself any more. Typically, but not always, it's the cold boot section that goes corrupt, and then there is a big problem. Often the unit works completely fine, after all, it only needs the boot section when? you guessed it, when the battery is flat or removed. What happens in this unit most of the time, is the unit has a blank screen and never works again. Often we hear the story of the poor mechanic/repair company who disconnected the battery to do their work, and now have got the blame for the system not working any more, as after all, when the customer drove in it was all working fine.
In this situation, it is an electronic ticking time bomb, and it goes off with whoever disconnects the battery, or someone that jump starts the flat battery is blamed for 'spiking' it.
How to prevent this problem? you can't, there is absolutely nothing the user/owner can do, it really is a clever but not so clever design. The problem is unfortunately not understood or recognised by most dealerships or their technicians, as for most it's beyond the level of diagnosis they have available, so you get the 'it's faulty, just replace it' speech.
Some can be fixed, some not yet, many cases are different, and in my opinion, either of the above could have happened to this particular Lexus unit. Of course, it could be the more simple faults, like hdd failed etc, and I would love to get my hands on it and strip it down out of sheer curiosity.
But please everyone, wait for your system to boot up properly before cranking her over!
Good luck to all!
I'm an electronic service tech in NZ, specialising in the repair of automotive audio/nav units, for the last 25 years.
So after reading through all the posts, there are 2 possibilities that come to mind, and I've seen both situations multiple times (not necessarily with just Lexus):
1. Lexus/Toyota units cold boot up from scratch if it has been removed/unplugged, or if the battery has gone flat or removed. This is normal of course, but it is a critical time. If a battery was removed, normally the key is off, the system won't power up, and with the key/vehicle off, battery replacement should be safe (assuming correct procedures by the tech/person). However, what we have seen is instances where in the Lexus the battery was drained, and a jump pack (or other vehicle) was used to start the flat vehicle, and this is where you have to be careful and not for the obvious reasons. The infotainment unit will start to cold reboot from scratch as soon as you turn the key to Accessory/On, and most will continue to then crank the car over, because you want to get going right? But starting the motor disconnects the Accessory position while cranking to put all power to cranking, and then you have just interrupted the boot process.
Several things can happen from there, it could restart booting and be fine, or some of either hdd data or internal flash memory could have been corrupted, which may or may not be in the critical boot area it was attempting to boot from, and no longer work, or some other non critical part may now not work.
It's a bit like this, turn your laptop on and while it's booting up from complete power off, yank the battery out in the middle of it booting. You could be lucky and it will reboot again and be fine, or you could now have a brick.
So how do you prevent this? really simple, when the Lexus (or any brand car for that matter) is being started from dead/no battery, turn the key to accessory (or ON) and WAIT for it to finish booting (and perhaps go to audio source, so you know it is now in 'normal functionality', THEN crank it over to start the motor.
2. The other issue we have seen (admittedly in another vehicle brand but could apply) is internal memory failure, but not the reason most think either. There is some clever self checking internal firmware that checks itself on certain power up times, or after an error is detected in some way, it's not known for sure exactly when unfortunately, and the manufacturers are tight lipped about it all. For this particular system I'm talking about, this is not obvious to the user, and happens in the background in the seconds it takes the units to power up. The good thing is this unit has some backup of part of the firmware, and when some error seems to be detected, we believe it marks the block as bad in the internal nand flash, and creates a new block, because they designed it to have X amount of extra available memory in nand flash to allow for X quantity of such errors, and your system continues working and the user has no idea.
Good idea in theory, but internal nand flash is just a memory chip with a limited amount of space, and we believe the design engineer(s) perhaps didn't anticipate maybe just how many potential small errors were created in the real world application (vehicle low battery, sudden voltage drop, noisy power lines, jump starting etc etc), again, it's not too clear, but what we do know is that it runs out of room to copy/correct itself any more. Typically, but not always, it's the cold boot section that goes corrupt, and then there is a big problem. Often the unit works completely fine, after all, it only needs the boot section when? you guessed it, when the battery is flat or removed. What happens in this unit most of the time, is the unit has a blank screen and never works again. Often we hear the story of the poor mechanic/repair company who disconnected the battery to do their work, and now have got the blame for the system not working any more, as after all, when the customer drove in it was all working fine.
In this situation, it is an electronic ticking time bomb, and it goes off with whoever disconnects the battery, or someone that jump starts the flat battery is blamed for 'spiking' it.
How to prevent this problem? you can't, there is absolutely nothing the user/owner can do, it really is a clever but not so clever design. The problem is unfortunately not understood or recognised by most dealerships or their technicians, as for most it's beyond the level of diagnosis they have available, so you get the 'it's faulty, just replace it' speech.
Some can be fixed, some not yet, many cases are different, and in my opinion, either of the above could have happened to this particular Lexus unit. Of course, it could be the more simple faults, like hdd failed etc, and I would love to get my hands on it and strip it down out of sheer curiosity.
But please everyone, wait for your system to boot up properly before cranking her over!
Good luck to all!
The following 7 users liked this post by morphis1:
AJLex19 (12-17-19),
chinee (12-18-19),
hypervish (12-18-19),
Im2bz2p345 (12-17-19),
jonathancl (12-18-19),
and 2 others liked this post.
12-17-19, 06:04 AM
#125
Hey everyone, I might be able to help shed some light on what happens or causes the units to seemingly just 'fail'.
I'm an electronic service tech in NZ, specialising in the repair of automotive audio/nav units, for the last 25 years.
So after reading through all the posts, there are 2 possibilities that come to mind, and I've seen both situations multiple times (not necessarily with just Lexus):
1. Lexus/Toyota units cold boot up from scratch if it has been removed/unplugged, or if the battery has gone flat or removed. This is normal of course, but it is a critical time. If a battery was removed, normally the key is off, the system won't power up, and with the key/vehicle off, battery replacement should be safe (assuming correct procedures by the tech/person). However, what we have seen is instances where in the Lexus the battery was drained, and a jump pack (or other vehicle) was used to start the flat vehicle, and this is where you have to be careful and not for the obvious reasons. The infotainment unit will start to cold reboot from scratch as soon as you turn the key to Accessory/On, and most will continue to then crank the car over, because you want to get going right? But starting the motor disconnects the Accessory position while cranking to put all power to cranking, and then you have just interrupted the boot process.
Several things can happen from there, it could restart booting and be fine, or some of either hdd data or internal flash memory could have been corrupted, which may or may not be in the critical boot area it was attempting to boot from, and no longer work, or some other non critical part may now not work.
It's a bit like this, turn your laptop on and while it's booting up from complete power off, yank the battery out in the middle of it booting. You could be lucky and it will reboot again and be fine, or you could now have a brick.
So how do you prevent this? really simple, when the Lexus (or any brand car for that matter) is being started from dead/no battery, turn the key to accessory (or ON) and WAIT for it to finish booting (and perhaps go to audio source, so you know it is now in 'normal functionality', THEN crank it over to start the motor.
2. The other issue we have seen (admittedly in another vehicle brand but could apply) is internal memory failure, but not the reason most think either. There is some clever self checking internal firmware that checks itself on certain power up times, or after an error is detected in some way, it's not known for sure exactly when unfortunately, and the manufacturers are tight lipped about it all. For this particular system I'm talking about, this is not obvious to the user, and happens in the background in the seconds it takes the units to power up. The good thing is this unit has some backup of part of the firmware, and when some error seems to be detected, we believe it marks the block as bad in the internal nand flash, and creates a new block, because they designed it to have X amount of extra available memory in nand flash to allow for X quantity of such errors, and your system continues working and the user has no idea.
Good idea in theory, but internal nand flash is just a memory chip with a limited amount of space, and we believe the design engineer(s) perhaps didn't anticipate maybe just how many potential small errors were created in the real world application (vehicle low battery, sudden voltage drop, noisy power lines, jump starting etc etc), again, it's not too clear, but what we do know is that it runs out of room to copy/correct itself any more. Typically, but not always, it's the cold boot section that goes corrupt, and then there is a big problem. Often the unit works completely fine, after all, it only needs the boot section when? you guessed it, when the battery is flat or removed. What happens in this unit most of the time, is the unit has a blank screen and never works again. Often we hear the story of the poor mechanic/repair company who disconnected the battery to do their work, and now have got the blame for the system not working any more, as after all, when the customer drove in it was all working fine.
In this situation, it is an electronic ticking time bomb, and it goes off with whoever disconnects the battery, or someone that jump starts the flat battery is blamed for 'spiking' it.
How to prevent this problem? you can't, there is absolutely nothing the user/owner can do, it really is a clever but not so clever design. The problem is unfortunately not understood or recognised by most dealerships or their technicians, as for most it's beyond the level of diagnosis they have available, so you get the 'it's faulty, just replace it' speech.
Some can be fixed, some not yet, many cases are different, and in my opinion, either of the above could have happened to this particular Lexus unit. Of course, it could be the more simple faults, like hdd failed etc, and I would love to get my hands on it and strip it down out of sheer curiosity.
But please everyone, wait for your system to boot up properly before cranking her over!
Good luck to all!
I'm an electronic service tech in NZ, specialising in the repair of automotive audio/nav units, for the last 25 years.
So after reading through all the posts, there are 2 possibilities that come to mind, and I've seen both situations multiple times (not necessarily with just Lexus):
1. Lexus/Toyota units cold boot up from scratch if it has been removed/unplugged, or if the battery has gone flat or removed. This is normal of course, but it is a critical time. If a battery was removed, normally the key is off, the system won't power up, and with the key/vehicle off, battery replacement should be safe (assuming correct procedures by the tech/person). However, what we have seen is instances where in the Lexus the battery was drained, and a jump pack (or other vehicle) was used to start the flat vehicle, and this is where you have to be careful and not for the obvious reasons. The infotainment unit will start to cold reboot from scratch as soon as you turn the key to Accessory/On, and most will continue to then crank the car over, because you want to get going right? But starting the motor disconnects the Accessory position while cranking to put all power to cranking, and then you have just interrupted the boot process.
Several things can happen from there, it could restart booting and be fine, or some of either hdd data or internal flash memory could have been corrupted, which may or may not be in the critical boot area it was attempting to boot from, and no longer work, or some other non critical part may now not work.
It's a bit like this, turn your laptop on and while it's booting up from complete power off, yank the battery out in the middle of it booting. You could be lucky and it will reboot again and be fine, or you could now have a brick.
So how do you prevent this? really simple, when the Lexus (or any brand car for that matter) is being started from dead/no battery, turn the key to accessory (or ON) and WAIT for it to finish booting (and perhaps go to audio source, so you know it is now in 'normal functionality', THEN crank it over to start the motor.
2. The other issue we have seen (admittedly in another vehicle brand but could apply) is internal memory failure, but not the reason most think either. There is some clever self checking internal firmware that checks itself on certain power up times, or after an error is detected in some way, it's not known for sure exactly when unfortunately, and the manufacturers are tight lipped about it all. For this particular system I'm talking about, this is not obvious to the user, and happens in the background in the seconds it takes the units to power up. The good thing is this unit has some backup of part of the firmware, and when some error seems to be detected, we believe it marks the block as bad in the internal nand flash, and creates a new block, because they designed it to have X amount of extra available memory in nand flash to allow for X quantity of such errors, and your system continues working and the user has no idea.
Good idea in theory, but internal nand flash is just a memory chip with a limited amount of space, and we believe the design engineer(s) perhaps didn't anticipate maybe just how many potential small errors were created in the real world application (vehicle low battery, sudden voltage drop, noisy power lines, jump starting etc etc), again, it's not too clear, but what we do know is that it runs out of room to copy/correct itself any more. Typically, but not always, it's the cold boot section that goes corrupt, and then there is a big problem. Often the unit works completely fine, after all, it only needs the boot section when? you guessed it, when the battery is flat or removed. What happens in this unit most of the time, is the unit has a blank screen and never works again. Often we hear the story of the poor mechanic/repair company who disconnected the battery to do their work, and now have got the blame for the system not working any more, as after all, when the customer drove in it was all working fine.
In this situation, it is an electronic ticking time bomb, and it goes off with whoever disconnects the battery, or someone that jump starts the flat battery is blamed for 'spiking' it.
How to prevent this problem? you can't, there is absolutely nothing the user/owner can do, it really is a clever but not so clever design. The problem is unfortunately not understood or recognised by most dealerships or their technicians, as for most it's beyond the level of diagnosis they have available, so you get the 'it's faulty, just replace it' speech.
Some can be fixed, some not yet, many cases are different, and in my opinion, either of the above could have happened to this particular Lexus unit. Of course, it could be the more simple faults, like hdd failed etc, and I would love to get my hands on it and strip it down out of sheer curiosity.
But please everyone, wait for your system to boot up properly before cranking her over!
Good luck to all!
12-17-19, 06:16 AM
#126
12-17-19, 06:38 AM
#127
Driver School Candidate
morphis1 - Thank you so much for sharing your experience with these systems, this is some great information that helped me to better understand the (potential) problems with these sorts of systems.
The following users liked this post:
Im2bz2p345 (12-17-19)
12-17-19, 09:09 AM
#128
Lexus Test Driver
1. Lexus/Toyota units cold boot up from scratch if it has been removed/unplugged, or if the battery has gone flat or removed. This is normal of course, but it is a critical time. If a battery was removed, normally the key is off, the system won't power up, and with the key/vehicle off, battery replacement should be safe (assuming correct procedures by the tech/person). However, what we have seen is instances where in the Lexus the battery was drained, and a jump pack (or other vehicle) was used to start the flat vehicle, and this is where you have to be careful and not for the obvious reasons. The infotainment unit will start to cold reboot from scratch as soon as you turn the key to Accessory/On, and most will continue to then crank the car over, because you want to get going right? But starting the motor disconnects the Accessory position while cranking to put all power to cranking, and then you have just interrupted the boot process.
Several things can happen from there, it could restart booting and be fine, or some of either hdd data or internal flash memory could have been corrupted, which may or may not be in the critical boot area it was attempting to boot from, and no longer work, or some other non critical part may now not work.
It's a bit like this, turn your laptop on and while it's booting up from complete power off, yank the battery out in the middle of it booting. You could be lucky and it will reboot again and be fine, or you could now have a brick.
So how do you prevent this? really simple, when the Lexus (or any brand car for that matter) is being started from dead/no battery, turn the key to accessory (or ON) and WAIT for it to finish booting (and perhaps go to audio source, so you know it is now in 'normal functionality', THEN crank it over to start the motor.
But please everyone, wait for your system to boot up properly before cranking her over!
Good luck to all!
Several things can happen from there, it could restart booting and be fine, or some of either hdd data or internal flash memory could have been corrupted, which may or may not be in the critical boot area it was attempting to boot from, and no longer work, or some other non critical part may now not work.
It's a bit like this, turn your laptop on and while it's booting up from complete power off, yank the battery out in the middle of it booting. You could be lucky and it will reboot again and be fine, or you could now have a brick.
So how do you prevent this? really simple, when the Lexus (or any brand car for that matter) is being started from dead/no battery, turn the key to accessory (or ON) and WAIT for it to finish booting (and perhaps go to audio source, so you know it is now in 'normal functionality', THEN crank it over to start the motor.
But please everyone, wait for your system to boot up properly before cranking her over!
Good luck to all!
The following 2 users liked this post by bclexus:
Im2bz2p345 (12-17-19),
mrplesh (12-17-19)
12-18-19, 02:48 AM
#129
Driver School Candidate
What I did forget to mention was another possibility for corruption that most don't think of, just to be complete. It's less likely, but still possible.
A lot of the units don't shut down straight away when you turn the key off, and even hop out of the car. Most Lexus units we power up on the bench for repair take approx 20 seconds to truly power down to standby mode, so if you were quick to turn off the car and disconnect your battery before it shuts down properly, potentially similar corruption can happen. Many other units we test can take as much as 2 to 3 minutes. Like I said, unlikely though, as who turns their car off, gets out and promptly removes the battery terminal...
While I think of it, all the above can happen in a similar way if you have loose/corroded/poor battery connections. Trying to start a motor with any of those problems can result in an instant voltage drop/power to all electronics, having a similar effect to briefly removing the battery terminals for as long as it is trying to crank the motor over. In some cases, this second or two can be enough to make some infotainment units cold boot when it stops cranking, because you probably still have the ignition on, so if you try starting it again...
12-18-19, 07:35 AM
#130
Racer
@morphis1 got me thinking about this in more detail.
The drive inside the radio is a Toshiba, specifically a ruggedized 2.5" hard drive.
During a normal boot, information from the drive is probably only being read, so interrupting that process should have no effect. There's no way to know that for certain, but if our radios were truly vulnerable to any kind of boot interruption, we'd have far more issues than we see.
Recovering from a battery or radio replacement is a different boot procedure: there is a different screen that pulls data from some of the other control modules in the car, things like custom settings you can change via the radio. I forget exactly what that screen says, but I saw it repeatedly when I was swapping ML and non-ML radios to compare the sound (no difference btw).
That process indicated by the progress bar is very likely writing data to the drive, and it is plausible that interrupting that process could create an unrecoverable situation. It could be updating a database file and not have proper logic to deal with corruption of said file.
That said, this procedure should mitigate the risk (as others have suggested):
The drive inside the radio is a Toshiba, specifically a ruggedized 2.5" hard drive.
During a normal boot, information from the drive is probably only being read, so interrupting that process should have no effect. There's no way to know that for certain, but if our radios were truly vulnerable to any kind of boot interruption, we'd have far more issues than we see.
Recovering from a battery or radio replacement is a different boot procedure: there is a different screen that pulls data from some of the other control modules in the car, things like custom settings you can change via the radio. I forget exactly what that screen says, but I saw it repeatedly when I was swapping ML and non-ML radios to compare the sound (no difference btw).
That process indicated by the progress bar is very likely writing data to the drive, and it is plausible that interrupting that process could create an unrecoverable situation. It could be updating a database file and not have proper logic to deal with corruption of said file.
That said, this procedure should mitigate the risk (as others have suggested):
- Replace battery, attach jumper cables, and/or install new radio.
- Hit the start button twice without depressing brake to power-on all electronics.
- Wait for radio to complete initialization.
- Depress brake, and hit power again to start the car.
Last edited by jonathancl; 12-18-19 at 09:18 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by jonathancl:
AJLex19 (12-18-19),
Im2bz2p345 (12-19-19)
12-18-19, 04:46 PM
#131
Driver School Candidate
@morphis1 got me thinking about this in more detail.
The drive inside the radio is a Toshiba, specifically a ruggedized 2.5" hard drive.
During a normal boot, information from the drive is probably only being read, so interrupting that process should have no effect. There's no way to know that for certain, but if our radios were truly vulnerable to any kind of boot interruption, we'd have far more issues than we see.
Recovering from a battery or radio replacement is a different boot procedure: there is a different screen that pulls data from some of the other control modules in the car, things like custom settings you can change via the radio. I forget exactly what that screen says, but I saw it repeatedly when I was swapping ML and non-ML radios to compare the sound (no difference btw).
That process indicated by the progress bar is very likely writing data to the drive, and it is plausible that interrupting that process could create an unrecoverable situation. It could be updating a database file and not have proper logic to deal with corruption of said file.
The drive inside the radio is a Toshiba, specifically a ruggedized 2.5" hard drive.
During a normal boot, information from the drive is probably only being read, so interrupting that process should have no effect. There's no way to know that for certain, but if our radios were truly vulnerable to any kind of boot interruption, we'd have far more issues than we see.
Recovering from a battery or radio replacement is a different boot procedure: there is a different screen that pulls data from some of the other control modules in the car, things like custom settings you can change via the radio. I forget exactly what that screen says, but I saw it repeatedly when I was swapping ML and non-ML radios to compare the sound (no difference btw).
That process indicated by the progress bar is very likely writing data to the drive, and it is plausible that interrupting that process could create an unrecoverable situation. It could be updating a database file and not have proper logic to deal with corruption of said file.
From what I can tell, the boot process/progress involves a mix of Flash, Sram and HDD, not just reading, but also writing to Sram to ready the system for normal operation, and faster 'turn on' time when the car is turned on. We've studied them in detail for repair and conversion, have browsed and have found the memory offsets, and where the loading file is loaded into Ram, and have modified Flash contents etc for 'recoding' new HDD's to units when corrupt, firmware manipulation for conversion etc.
Corrupt HDD's still have some system functionality usually, as it loads still but lets you know with the error message most people know about ' A program can not be read, please consult to a dealer.' If the unit powers up and it's got that far, the HDD has failed most likely, but a black screen no function/display is a bit more serious and possibly internal memory.
That said, this procedure should mitigate the risk (as others have suggested):
- Replace battery, attach jumper cables, and/or install new radio.
- Hit the start button twice without depressing brake to power-on all electronics.
- Wait for radio to complete initialization.
- Depress brake, and hit power again to start the car.
Last edited by morphis1; 12-19-19 at 12:08 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Im2bz2p345 (12-19-19)
12-19-19, 08:15 AM
#132
Lexus Test Driver
I'm going to change my mom's Prius 12V battery next week and we'll see if it'll brick the nav system. 
But I don't think it will cause hybrids don't run the engine immediately after the ignition is on anyway so I think I'll be alright!
But I don't think it will cause hybrids don't run the engine immediately after the ignition is on anyway so I think I'll be alright!
12-19-19, 09:01 AM
#133
Racer
We've studied them in detail for repair and conversion, have browsed and have found the memory offsets, and where the loading file is loaded into Ram, and have modified Flash contents etc for 'recoding' new HDD's to units when corrupt, firmware manipulation for conversion etc.
I was able to grab an image using this rather convoluted procedure, but it didn't look like anything I had ever seen before.
12-21-19, 08:10 PM
#134
Driver School Candidate
Do you have any idea what the OS is that these systems are based on?
I was able to grab an image using this rather convoluted procedure, but it didn't look like anything I had ever seen before.
I was able to grab an image using this rather convoluted procedure, but it didn't look like anything I had ever seen before.
Sorry to the OP for straying off topic slightly there
