Very Slow tire leak and unexpected cross threaded nut/stud from tire shop.
#16
The worst! I bought my car with a cross threaded stud, they'd glued the wheel nut on to cover it up. Mechanics couldn't get it off manually so had to rattle gun the nut off which just stripped the spline in the hub 😭 At least the lug replacement is easy!
#17
Peasodos,
Sounds like you’re having far too much fun! Hopefully the die tool gets in this morning for you and you can do that thread repair.
As a few have mentioned, there are several things that can cause air to slowly leak from a tire, replacing the valve core is a great start. The other thing you may want to consider is having someone remove and replace the valve hole gasket. I believe your vehicle has a metal valve stem (clamp-in valve) so there will be a gasket that seals the metal stem to the wheel which can dry out and crack creating this slow leak. If you have a rubber stem they would just replace the stem which can also dry out over time and crack.
TPMS Rebuild | Discount Tire
With regards to repair, although a plug will seal the hole, the reason we and many other shops won’t do just a plug is that over time the plug can loosen which can allow moisture (someone cringed reading that) into the tire, mixing a metal belt package with water could create rust resulting in the tire potentially failing. The plug coming loose will cause loss of pressure as well, this is where the patch comes in. Also, when a reamer is first shoved through, it pushes the damaged belts into the tire rather than removing them as a patch repair would do. A lot of patches (ours included offers a plug & patch combination) that not only seals the tire from moisture but also fills the hole leaving a tire completely safe and usable for the remaining tread depth.
As BClexus, mentioned we offer free flat repairs to anyone as long as it is safe to do so. We would rather repair a tire free of charge and know that it was done right, than have someone risk an unsafe repair.
Ajlex19 is correct. The other thing that may be needed is the Buff and Seal. This is due to corrosion building up between the wheel and tire that won’t allow the tire to properly seal to the wheel. By removing the wheel and cleaning the rim flange area that the tire seals to, Applying a proper bead sealer to the tire and reinstalling the tire allows the tire to seal and hold air, although sometimes if the wheel cant be fixed it may need a replacement.
Best of luck with the thread repair, fingers crossed. If you are still having trouble and are near one of our stores, we can certainly have them take a look and resolve the issue.
Store Locator | Discount Tire
Sounds like you’re having far too much fun! Hopefully the die tool gets in this morning for you and you can do that thread repair.
As a few have mentioned, there are several things that can cause air to slowly leak from a tire, replacing the valve core is a great start. The other thing you may want to consider is having someone remove and replace the valve hole gasket. I believe your vehicle has a metal valve stem (clamp-in valve) so there will be a gasket that seals the metal stem to the wheel which can dry out and crack creating this slow leak. If you have a rubber stem they would just replace the stem which can also dry out over time and crack.
TPMS Rebuild | Discount Tire
With regards to repair, although a plug will seal the hole, the reason we and many other shops won’t do just a plug is that over time the plug can loosen which can allow moisture (someone cringed reading that) into the tire, mixing a metal belt package with water could create rust resulting in the tire potentially failing. The plug coming loose will cause loss of pressure as well, this is where the patch comes in. Also, when a reamer is first shoved through, it pushes the damaged belts into the tire rather than removing them as a patch repair would do. A lot of patches (ours included offers a plug & patch combination) that not only seals the tire from moisture but also fills the hole leaving a tire completely safe and usable for the remaining tread depth.
As BClexus, mentioned we offer free flat repairs to anyone as long as it is safe to do so. We would rather repair a tire free of charge and know that it was done right, than have someone risk an unsafe repair.
Ajlex19 is correct. The other thing that may be needed is the Buff and Seal. This is due to corrosion building up between the wheel and tire that won’t allow the tire to properly seal to the wheel. By removing the wheel and cleaning the rim flange area that the tire seals to, Applying a proper bead sealer to the tire and reinstalling the tire allows the tire to seal and hold air, although sometimes if the wheel cant be fixed it may need a replacement.
Best of luck with the thread repair, fingers crossed. If you are still having trouble and are near one of our stores, we can certainly have them take a look and resolve the issue.
Store Locator | Discount Tire
The following users liked this post:
Im2bz2p345 (01-26-20)
#18
Peasodos,
Sounds like you’re having far too much fun! Hopefully the die tool gets in this morning for you and you can do that thread repair.
As a few have mentioned, there are several things that can cause air to slowly leak from a tire, replacing the valve core is a great start. The other thing you may want to consider is having someone remove and replace the valve hole gasket. I believe your vehicle has a metal valve stem (clamp-in valve) so there will be a gasket that seals the metal stem to the wheel which can dry out and crack creating this slow leak. If you have a rubber stem they would just replace the stem which can also dry out over time and crack.
TPMS Rebuild | Discount Tire
With regards to repair, although a plug will seal the hole, the reason we and many other shops won’t do just a plug is that over time the plug can loosen which can allow moisture (someone cringed reading that) into the tire, mixing a metal belt package with water could create rust resulting in the tire potentially failing. The plug coming loose will cause loss of pressure as well, this is where the patch comes in. Also, when a reamer is first shoved through, it pushes the damaged belts into the tire rather than removing them as a patch repair would do. A lot of patches (ours included offers a plug & patch combination) that not only seals the tire from moisture but also fills the hole leaving a tire completely safe and usable for the remaining tread depth.
As BClexus, mentioned we offer free flat repairs to anyone as long as it is safe to do so. We would rather repair a tire free of charge and know that it was done right, than have someone risk an unsafe repair.
Ajlex19 is correct. The other thing that may be needed is the Buff and Seal. This is due to corrosion building up between the wheel and tire that won’t allow the tire to properly seal to the wheel. By removing the wheel and cleaning the rim flange area that the tire seals to, Applying a proper bead sealer to the tire and reinstalling the tire allows the tire to seal and hold air, although sometimes if the wheel cant be fixed it may need a replacement.
Best of luck with the thread repair, fingers crossed. If you are still having trouble and are near one of our stores, we can certainly have them take a look and resolve the issue.
Store Locator | Discount Tire
Sounds like you’re having far too much fun! Hopefully the die tool gets in this morning for you and you can do that thread repair.
As a few have mentioned, there are several things that can cause air to slowly leak from a tire, replacing the valve core is a great start. The other thing you may want to consider is having someone remove and replace the valve hole gasket. I believe your vehicle has a metal valve stem (clamp-in valve) so there will be a gasket that seals the metal stem to the wheel which can dry out and crack creating this slow leak. If you have a rubber stem they would just replace the stem which can also dry out over time and crack.
TPMS Rebuild | Discount Tire
With regards to repair, although a plug will seal the hole, the reason we and many other shops won’t do just a plug is that over time the plug can loosen which can allow moisture (someone cringed reading that) into the tire, mixing a metal belt package with water could create rust resulting in the tire potentially failing. The plug coming loose will cause loss of pressure as well, this is where the patch comes in. Also, when a reamer is first shoved through, it pushes the damaged belts into the tire rather than removing them as a patch repair would do. A lot of patches (ours included offers a plug & patch combination) that not only seals the tire from moisture but also fills the hole leaving a tire completely safe and usable for the remaining tread depth.
As BClexus, mentioned we offer free flat repairs to anyone as long as it is safe to do so. We would rather repair a tire free of charge and know that it was done right, than have someone risk an unsafe repair.
Ajlex19 is correct. The other thing that may be needed is the Buff and Seal. This is due to corrosion building up between the wheel and tire that won’t allow the tire to properly seal to the wheel. By removing the wheel and cleaning the rim flange area that the tire seals to, Applying a proper bead sealer to the tire and reinstalling the tire allows the tire to seal and hold air, although sometimes if the wheel cant be fixed it may need a replacement.
Best of luck with the thread repair, fingers crossed. If you are still having trouble and are near one of our stores, we can certainly have them take a look and resolve the issue.
Store Locator | Discount Tire
Out of curiosity I google map searched Discount Tire and there isn't one within 100 miles from me. I live in Virginia 20 minutes from Washington DC. The nearest Discount Tire is in Richmond, VA. Kind of weird the DC area or Northern Virginia doesn't have a discount tire considering how populated this area is.
The following users liked this post:
Discount Tire (01-22-20)
#19
Amazon delivered the half inch socket for the die tool this morning. The actual die tool won't get here till later today.
Out of curiosity I google map searched Discount Tire and there isn't one within 100 miles from me. I live in Virginia 20 minutes from Washington DC. The nearest Discount Tire is in Richmond, VA. Kind of weird the DC area or Northern Virginia doesn't have a discount tire considering how populated this area is.
Out of curiosity I google map searched Discount Tire and there isn't one within 100 miles from me. I live in Virginia 20 minutes from Washington DC. The nearest Discount Tire is in Richmond, VA. Kind of weird the DC area or Northern Virginia doesn't have a discount tire considering how populated this area is.
PM coming your way.
Last edited by Discount Tire; 01-24-20 at 06:27 AM.
#20
When Amazon logistics fails to deliver on time.. This reminds me of when I needed my car battery, same problem. At least I work from home so not a big deal.
Amazon will try their "Maximum", Indian CS
The best part is I found out it shipped from a location 25 minutes from my apartment.
Amazon will try their "Maximum", Indian CS
The best part is I found out it shipped from a location 25 minutes from my apartment.
Last edited by peasodos; 01-22-20 at 12:58 PM.
#22
So they didn't patch the tire from the inside? You can probably bend the pinch weld back with pliers or vice grips. I bent mine once then I got the hockey puck with the slot in it for the floor jack.
Toyota has the stupidest flimsiest jack points I have ever encountered, I never had this problem with my Honda back in the day. I never used hockey pucks just floor jack to jack point before.
Toyota has the stupidest flimsiest jack points I have ever encountered, I never had this problem with my Honda back in the day. I never used hockey pucks just floor jack to jack point before.
Awhile ago someone posted a diagram that shows that jack points. None of them involve pinch welds.
ETA: Maybe the flimsy spare tire jack does this, but if so, my gut instinct was this was done out of expedience and the fact that you can't reach the approved ones easily on the side of the road...
-Mike
#23
-Mike
#24
#25
On Honda that pinch weld is reinforced/much stronger than Lexus for jacking up the car, that jack seat directly against this. If you use the hockey puck with the slot it basically avoids putting pressure directly against the pinch weld(like the car jack). This is what I use to jack up the one side of the car to do oil changes.
#26
Tool finally came in, fix my threads tomorrow.
I tested it on my old oem stud, fits perfectly, if anything nice to run it to clean out the crude in between the threads.
I tested it on my old oem stud, fits perfectly, if anything nice to run it to clean out the crude in between the threads.
#27
Keep us posted on the progress of resolving the leak.
#28
Well I could not get the tool perfectly on the original thread. It sort of recut the thread next to the old one. I got all the lugs on, but this damaged one I can only torque up to 56ft lb. Then it stops and I feel the threads are starting to give.
If I filed down the first few stripped threads I probably could have lined it up better with the existing threads.
In any case I ordered the replacement stud and plan on replacing it myself next week. Better to have the lug on than just 4, even though 4 would be perfectly fine torqued properly.
Also monitor my psi over the next week hopefully the valve core was the problem.
If I filed down the first few stripped threads I probably could have lined it up better with the existing threads.
In any case I ordered the replacement stud and plan on replacing it myself next week. Better to have the lug on than just 4, even though 4 would be perfectly fine torqued properly.
Also monitor my psi over the next week hopefully the valve core was the problem.
#29
I had a tire shop (the “fake” Discount Tire* in OC) put all of my lug nuts on backwards on my Avalon back in the day. Had to have 2-3 studs replaced on every single wheel because of that. Needless to say, I was highly upset. I didn’t realize it until I blew a tire and had to change it on the side of the freeway, snapping off 3 studs in the process and costing me a tow.
*For those not in CA, Discount Tire does business in parts of CA as “America’s Tire”, so the shop named “Discount Tire” is a different company altogether. That other company are the ones that botched all my wheels. The real Discount Tire has always been great.
*For those not in CA, Discount Tire does business in parts of CA as “America’s Tire”, so the shop named “Discount Tire” is a different company altogether. That other company are the ones that botched all my wheels. The real Discount Tire has always been great.
#30
I had a tire shop (the “fake” Discount Tire* in OC) put all of my lug nuts on backwards on my Avalon back in the day. Had to have 2-3 studs replaced on every single wheel because of that. Needless to say, I was highly upset. I didn’t realize it until I blew a tire and had to change it on the side of the freeway, snapping off 3 studs in the process and costing me a tow.
*For those not in CA, Discount Tire does business in parts of CA as “America’s Tire”, so the shop named “Discount Tire” is a different company altogether. That other company are the ones that botched all my wheels. The real Discount Tire has always been great.
*For those not in CA, Discount Tire does business in parts of CA as “America’s Tire”, so the shop named “Discount Tire” is a different company altogether. That other company are the ones that botched all my wheels. The real Discount Tire has always been great.
Took my mom's Prius there the other day because we saw a screw on the tire and they said the screw didn't puncture the tire but still charged her $25 anyway cause they "said" they took off the wheel and all. I was outside and didn't know until all is said and done and I was kinda pissed. They basically didn't do anything but still charged $$. What the F!!