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I ordered this harbor freight ball joint tool to make removing and installing the stud super easy, instead of banging with a hammer. I got the idea from this blog: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...all-joint-tool
I'm actually looking forward to doing the work, I like stuff like this It will be my first time changing a stud, I've done brake jobs several times before.
Cost of the original H&R stud $5, cost of ball joint tool $15, everything else priceless.
The whole job is rather simple:
1) Remove the wheel.
2) Remove the pin and pull the brake pads. I plan on changing my pads.
3) Remove the two caliper bolts on the back side.
4) Set aside the caliper.
5) Tap the back of the rotor with hammer to pop it off, or screw bolts into the caliper in the bolt holes to pop it off the hub.
6) Use ball joint tool to remove and install studs. Use penetrating fluid for stud removal and lubricate the knurling on the new stud to make it slide in easier.
7) Put everything back together.
Even the shops that do charge, tend to charge very little. I think one of the patches I had done on my 10 Camry cost me less than 20 bucks. I think tire shops try to keep this cheap in terms of garnering customer goodwill.
-Mike
Yes, that's true, I worked at a great tire store in 1986 & they charged $15, & lost money. It just takes too long for the glue to dry so the rack is tied up too long for $15.
After putting the wheel back on, I set all the tires to the same PSI. So far driving over two days and no drop in psi relative to the other tires. I can only be 100% certain after several more days, but so far I'm happy.
Ok I can now say with 100% confidence, replacing the valve stem core fixed my tire leak. The tire that was leaking is the same PSI relative to the other tires.