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My concern was with programming. I know for BMW, used modules don’t always work Unless they were registered to a car, so figured I’d play it safe and buy new. More playing it safe than anything else. Had an X5 where even the computer for the rear hatch had to be programmed and could only be done with the BMW software, and that used modules wouldn’t work, so that was kind of the basis for my decision.
Regardless, glad to know used will work for other people who may run into the issue
Yeah this ecu doesn't require any programming or register to the car, plug and play.
I have retrofitted factory options to my car the ECU's I got from wrecked cars are just plug and play, Lexus is more intuitive and streamlined in the way parts go together.
BMW is stupid, you even have to program a new battery when you change it requiring dealer software or an expensive tablet.
While I am waiting for the ordered ECU to arrive, I followed RXGS' instruction to gain access to the ECU and unplug it. However when I checked the parasitic drain, it is still 1.2A! Does it mean that the ECU is not the problem for my car?
While I am waiting for the ordered ECU to arrive, I followed RXGS' instruction to gain access to the ECU and unplug it. However when I checked the parasitic drain, it is still 1.2A! Does it mean that the ECU is not the problem for my car?
It might be draining without that ecu and act the same way it drains with a defective one. A working ecu might fix the problem, you'll only know for sure once you change the part.
Remove the screws from the glove box and place it on the floor. You'll see this gray box with an orange sticker on it. Remove the two screws and disconnect the connector and install the new part. Then put the glove box back, you're all done!
Why does this look like the most arbitrarily placed part?
"Joe, where should we put this network module? Everything else is nicely tucked away, but it's getting tight."
'I dunno, Steve. It's almost five... Just screw it to the fan housing, and let's go.'
[Joe and Steve: classic names for Japanese engineers.]
I confirmed that I did have the faulty part, replaced w the one from eBay:
I finally received the part yesterday. Today before I replaced the old one, I checked the current, which was 0.44-0.46A (in my original post I reported 1.23A but actually it was sort of incorrect: it was 1.23A when the multimeter was first connected but after 10-15 seconds, the current dropped to 0.44A. I learned online that the initial surge was due to the charging of capacitors). However after I plugged in the new module, the current became 0.88-0.89A. Taking out fuses 20 and 26 again dropped the current to zero. Now I am lost. How could a new part make it worse?
Was wondering if this the right part for the battery drain issues. I just bought a used 2013 gs350(love the car) and picked this up from ebay just in case but looking at past thread, I wanted to make sure I had the right part. I appreciate the help!
04-17-20, 12:42 PM
