chuber1986

Thanks for the response, just was checking to make sure I didnt just buy another older one. Figured for $40 couldn’t hurt to have it on hand 🤷‍♂️

maclem8223

Thinking about trying this myself, I'll pull the glove box this weekend and check the ECU number but I've been having to jump start my GS the past couple of weeks as well only after a couple of days. Battery is about 2 years old I believe. Hoping this will be the issues.

peasodos

iTrader: (1)

You should get your battery tested asap. My 2013 has the original ecu and zero issues.

maclem8223

Yup, gonna pull it this weekend and take to auto store to get tested. Sticker on oem battery is 4/18 which if I remember correctly Lexus' battery warranty is 4 years prorated. Could be wrong here.I do have a dashcam, but is connected only to come on when the car is on. Aftermarket amp / sub and vline are the only other things I've installed that may be causing an issue I guess?
Edit #2: Battery warranty is actually 84 months prorated. Just fyi

maclem8223

Conclusion: Battery pretty much completely dead. Replaced...all is well.
Sorry for double post

maclem8223

Conclusion for me: Battery pretty much completely dead, replaced, all is well. Battery was only two years old so I have warranty left on it prorated; however, dealer HAS to have battery in car, won't take the print out or just let me bring the battery on. I was a SA with Lexus for about 3 years, sorry, not dealing with your BS. I'll pay an extra $30 at the auto parts store and save myself the hour trip to you.....

scottgs350

To all you guys with power daining problems,
I myself had draining problem.
After replacing network gateway computer, about 60 bucks I still had draining issues.

I did a complete test and found power draining from 7.5 Am2 fuse number 13# fuse. Passenger footwell.
drain, 10 to 160 milli amps.

under warranty I took it to lexus and told them the problem and where to find it.
They called me back and said they had never had this problem with the gs?
They found the alarm system is draining the battery down. 1200$ part deep in the dash needs to be replaced.m
They Should be doing under warranty, if not there will hell to pay.

I wanted to let all of you know the problem and how to fix, the gateway works for must, but I would double check yours if it’s dead in 5 to 7 days with a new battery.
hope that can help a few find the problem.
only the lockdown help me find my problem.

peasodos

iTrader: (1)

Unless previous owner did some mod and didn't put it back to stock or had an aftermarket alarm.

scottgs350

It was stock as stock can be. It was draining a full battery in seven days.

I just got the car back after they put in a new system, it now looks like it is working and it is fixed.
After checking forums, I found someone els that had the same problem and his was replace also. That makes two for sure now.

TrevorTran

I am currently having this issue on my 2013 F-Sport. I bought a brand new OEM battery from Longo 2 months ago. I last drove the car on Monday 12/7, tried to start the car on Sunday 12/13, and there was no power to open the doors, no electrical, no lights. I do have air suspension, and have tapped a fuse for footwell LED lights, so that may be the cause of power drain, but battery seems to be completely dead after only being sat for 6 days. I tried jumping with a 75amp battery starter, but car wouldn't turn over, and instead went haywire, saying 'parking brake inoperable', and every time I would hit the push to start button, it would try to start instead of turning off. I had to leave it on accessory mode and let the power die down. In this case, it wouldn't be an alternator or starter issue would it?

I'm going to have to buy a new battery, and buy this network computer that you guys have recommended to see if that will fix the issue. Will also check the fuses to see if there is excessive current draw while car is off.

jdpdata

Your new battery is only 2 months old. It should still have warranty on it. Ask for an exchange. Then get a trickle charger to hook-up to battery when not in use. Are you driving it daily? Most of us are driving less with Covid restrictions.

TrevorTran

I will ask for an exchange since the battery is still new. I haven't been driving it daily, it sits in the garage 5-6 days at a time, but I didn't expect it to have this much of a power drain. I will certainly invest in a trickle charger this time around due to the reduced driving. Thanks for the input @jdpdata, appreciate it!

edoggie

1) Get a voltmeter.
2) Place it on the amps setting
3) Disconnect the *negative* battery terminal
4) Place the red probe to the battery terminal cable
5) Place the black lead to the negative battery terminal
6) Wait for around 40 mins and the car should go to sleep
7) Turn your meter on
8) If you are reading over .050, there is your problem
9) At this point, you have to start pulling fuses.
10) Fuse Am2, at the passenger side fuse box tends to be a favorite.

Do not turn the headlights on or start the car while your meter is connected. You will blow the fuse in your meter due to high current.

IntrinoX

iTrader: (1)

I currently have this problem on my 2014.

I changed my gateway ecu already, but it still dies.

I did a draw test today and I’m under 50ma.

at this point, I am thinking it’s a battery issue if draw is under 50ma?

surgeon0

The drain issue also a 2013. Cousin's car so I only work on it once in a while. Seems there was a long story for battery issue. Used to call AAA so many times where they come and jump start. She had the dealer work on it. Nine months past, same issue. Then she went to an indy mechanic who replaced the battery terminal because there was some corrosion. It looked almost new now after cleaned up the wire up to terminal attachment. Few months past. Same issue. She gave it to dealer again. Week later, "there is some bad corrosion on a wire deep somewhere". It will be $400 to fix. I was getting ready to order the negative wire 82284-30080. She had the dealer do it. Yep $340.70.
EL15 Cable, Battery - Negative - Replace > parts 132.17 labor 195.99

So before she went to do the dealer work, I sanded the body where the negative cables bracket bolts on. And a plastic clip broke on the driver side bumper so it pops out a little at the corner.... They told her there was some accident on the vehicle and they can show her "heavy structural damage under the hood and if she is selling the car they would offer her $3500". It was one owner and is garage-parked, low miles and its worth $23000 as of last week. This was "Lexus of Cerritos". <<< "Stealer" is appropriate here.

Problem still there. I traced the drain with multimeter/clampmeter over a few days and at 10.6V on 4th day, charges fine after jump. I found TSB L-SB-0035-16. We talked to Lexus customer care. Looked at our service records and this issue was not serviced yet. They also realized that Cerritos dealer "full diagnosis" for more than a week, they could not figure out. They advised us to go to a different dealer. As she did that will update what they come up with. I already ordered this Network module ECU 30181. Waiting to see what the dealer at South Bay comes up with now. They are charging $180 for the diagnosis.

Will post back in a few days when we get the results. In the next few days I will also receive my part.