Failing !2v Battery
10-24-20, 07:40 PM
#16
12.2V is a nearly 1/2 dead battery. Anything below 12.0V is considered discharged. 12.7V is a well-charged battery.
My car has been sitting and only driven once per week. It has been dead enough that the horn chirps and the headlights go all flashy-wonky. I have to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. Putting a charger on it does not help at that stage.
I drove it today to see if it would start. It cranked slow but fired. I drove about 10 minutes and shopped for 15 minutes and it started again just fine.
When I returned home, it showed 12.07V on my digital meter. I disconnected the battery and am charging it overnight to see what I get in the morning. If it is 12.5 or above, I'll leave it alone for 24 hours to see what loss it has without being connected to the car. Then I will do another 24-hour test reconnected to see how much draw there is in a day.
My luck with batteries is either excellent or crap. The batteries in my muscle cars that haven't been driven in 1 week and 2 weeks respectively are 12.52v and 12.49v. My lawnmower which has not run in 2 weeks is 12.51v. The batteries in my muscle cars last for a decade. I attribute that to being on a battery tender all winter. I got 12 years out of the last one. Even my mower got 6 years out of the last battery. My Lexus ran 2.3 years before I had to replace it in April 2020. Now, that battery is not great at 6 months in.
My car has been sitting and only driven once per week. It has been dead enough that the horn chirps and the headlights go all flashy-wonky. I have to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. Putting a charger on it does not help at that stage.
I drove it today to see if it would start. It cranked slow but fired. I drove about 10 minutes and shopped for 15 minutes and it started again just fine.
When I returned home, it showed 12.07V on my digital meter. I disconnected the battery and am charging it overnight to see what I get in the morning. If it is 12.5 or above, I'll leave it alone for 24 hours to see what loss it has without being connected to the car. Then I will do another 24-hour test reconnected to see how much draw there is in a day.
My luck with batteries is either excellent or crap. The batteries in my muscle cars that haven't been driven in 1 week and 2 weeks respectively are 12.52v and 12.49v. My lawnmower which has not run in 2 weeks is 12.51v. The batteries in my muscle cars last for a decade. I attribute that to being on a battery tender all winter. I got 12 years out of the last one. Even my mower got 6 years out of the last battery. My Lexus ran 2.3 years before I had to replace it in April 2020. Now, that battery is not great at 6 months in.
There is a known issue of battery drain caused by the network gateway ecu, could be the same problem with your car.
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ShonBooker (11-09-20)
10-24-20, 08:06 PM
#17
Instructor
10-24-20, 10:46 PM
#18
Here is the TSB:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...86305-5448.pdf
You can buy the updated part number that fixes this issue used for about $50 used on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...30181&_sacat=0
This is the part number
89100-30181
Several members have bought the used 89100-30181 on eBay and that fixed the problem, no need to buy it new.
It's fairly easy to replace, right behind the glove box, here is a diy post:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...l#post10423255
Last edited by peasodos; 10-24-20 at 10:50 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Im2bz2p345 (10-26-20)
10-25-20, 07:34 AM
#19
Instructor
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ery-drain.html
Here is the TSB:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...86305-5448.pdf
You can buy the updated part number that fixes this issue used for about $50 used on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...30181&_sacat=0
This is the part number
89100-30181
Several members have bought the used 89100-30181 on eBay and that fixed the problem, no need to buy it new.
It's fairly easy to replace, right behind the glove box, here is a diy post:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...l#post10423255
Here is the TSB:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...86305-5448.pdf
You can buy the updated part number that fixes this issue used for about $50 used on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...30181&_sacat=0
This is the part number
89100-30181
Several members have bought the used 89100-30181 on eBay and that fixed the problem, no need to buy it new.
It's fairly easy to replace, right behind the glove box, here is a diy post:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...l#post10423255
10-26-20, 05:24 AM
#20
Instructor
Update: I charged my battery to 12.65v overnight and latched the hood mechanism with a screwdriver so as not to trigger a theft deterrent drain. I used my Craftsman multimeter that is rated to 10a DC for 30 seconds and was able to verify my draw at 0.01 - 0.02 amps (aka 10-20 milliamps)
In conclusion, I do not believe my car suffers the condition outlined in the TSB. It simply isn't being driven enough after sitting an entire week. Basically, I was driving 2 miles to the grocery, left the car sitting for 30 minutes while shopping and 2 miles back home once a week. I will keep it on a battery tender until more normal travel patterns return.
For what it is worth, if you have a basic multimeter with a DC amp setting and a short lead with alligator clips, this is a very simple test to perform. It will easily rule out the network gateway module.
In conclusion, I do not believe my car suffers the condition outlined in the TSB. It simply isn't being driven enough after sitting an entire week. Basically, I was driving 2 miles to the grocery, left the car sitting for 30 minutes while shopping and 2 miles back home once a week. I will keep it on a battery tender until more normal travel patterns return.
For what it is worth, if you have a basic multimeter with a DC amp setting and a short lead with alligator clips, this is a very simple test to perform. It will easily rule out the network gateway module.
10-26-20, 07:19 AM
#21
Test the network gateway ecu and let us know. You car may have always had this problem, just more noticeable now because you drive it a lot less. I've had my car sit around for nearly a month before when I was out of the country and it started up no problem.
10-26-20, 04:14 PM
#22
Instructor
How do you test the NGE specifically? I did the residual drain down test and mine was well under the limit of 50 milliamps (0.050 amps) at 10-20 milliamps.
10-26-20, 07:29 PM
#23
idk probably gotta look at the wiring diagram, but honestly If my battery was draining like yours and can’t figure anything else just remove the network gateway ecu and test your battery to see if it’s still draining. If not then that confirms your problem.
10-26-20, 07:32 PM
#24
Instructor
I think you are missing the point that I tested the parasitic draw as prescribed in the TSB document and it tests in the good range. It allows 50 milliamps and I got 10-20 milliamps.
10-26-20, 07:35 PM
#25
I had a drain on my battery turned out the empty slot I fused my dash cam too had power when the car was off, I meant to connect it to only when the car is running. Have you tapped any fuses?
10-27-20, 08:30 AM
#26
Instructor
Then I guess it’s not an issue according to the tsb, if you know you tested it correctly.
I had a drain on my battery turned out the empty slot I fused my dash cam too had power when the car was off, I meant to connect it to only when the car is running. Have you tapped any fuses?
I had a drain on my battery turned out the empty slot I fused my dash cam too had power when the car was off, I meant to connect it to only when the car is running. Have you tapped any fuses?
11-08-20, 08:41 PM
#27
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: OR
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...ery-drain.html
Here is the TSB:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...86305-5448.pdf
You can buy the updated part number that fixes this issue used for about $50 used on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...30181&_sacat=0
This is the part number
89100-30181
Several members have bought the used 89100-30181 on eBay and that fixed the problem, no need to buy it new.
It's fairly easy to replace, right behind the glove box, here is a diy post:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...l#post10423255
Here is the TSB:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...86305-5448.pdf
You can buy the updated part number that fixes this issue used for about $50 used on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...30181&_sacat=0
This is the part number
89100-30181
Several members have bought the used 89100-30181 on eBay and that fixed the problem, no need to buy it new.
It's fairly easy to replace, right behind the glove box, here is a diy post:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...l#post10423255
11-29-20, 10:39 AM
#28
Driver School Candidate
Mine has same problem, 1200 box for the alarm system. Am2 fuse, 7.5 number 13# space, inside passenger footwell. This might need to be a recall. I think lexus has been putting it off. But it is very telling now. Guys if your car sits for 5 to seven days a is dead, check the fuse.
11-29-20, 02:39 PM
#29
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: OR
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In the name of absolute overkill, I've been charging and testing my battery for 21 days. It is a Costco Interstate 27F purchased four months ago. There is a pattern of charging to 12.4, then 11.8, 11.6 and 11.4 next three days. On 5th day 2.2. This is without starting car to maintain fault state. To stupidly see if the battery was a fault, just let it sit four days and watched drop from 12.5 to 12.23. Lexus dealer received the TSB from me three weeks ago with interest, but as it does not apply to 2003 GX470, they are reluctant to look at it. R&R the Gateway module behind the glove box is $350. I intend to make sure it is in fault state, flatbed tow to Lexus and deliver dead. Share 3 weeks diary with them. Tell THEM to find the fault and be prepared to R&R the Gateway module if they cannot locate definitive fault. Fingers crossed.
Last edited by Oregonstit; 11-29-20 at 02:42 PM.
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