This is what the bottom of the grille and package tray looks like in the center. It appears that the grille has 7 points circled in red and possibly 1 more circled in gold where the plastic stems from the grille get melted to form a rivet-like attachment. To get the grille off you would have to break the melted plastic areas and then you could replace the fabric. The problem is reconnecting the grille after. The stems won't be long enough to give you any plastic to melt. You could possibly use a glue gun, screws and washers with some Locktite, melt plastic from something else onto it or use some epoxy. However, my fear would be that if any of those reconnected areas fail, then you'll get vibration from the grille itself and have to pull the whole thing apart to inspect and fix it.

I had this same problem and after looking into it just bit the bullet and had Lexus replace the rear package tray. It cost approximately $800. They did a good job and it's held up well so far. I also keep my rear shade up and have the windows tinted. The previous owner didn't have tint and the heat from the sun probably caused the fabric glue to let loose when the bass was pumping while listening to music. Good luck.

 

Thanks man I appreciate the feedback. I had a guy that works on cars say he could re glue it for 250. I might consider that or just take off the fabric completely and leaving just the plastic.

 

In my experience re-gluing will fail prematurely due to the fact that the sub is in your car and exposed to extreme heat , cold and wet conditions. If the sub sat in your living room or basement , that wouldn't be an issue. And the type of glue needed is usually a 2 part , highly toxic , and often not available to the public because of how carcinogenic the stuff is .



They told me they're not supposed to sell this stuff, but hooked it up anyways.

 

good to know. I might just have to leave it bare plastic without the cover. Doesn’t look TOO BAD. But it’s still kinda funny looking.

 

This was driving me nuts on my GSF so I just took a few strips of velcro to hold the fabric down. No more rattles!

 

hey I wanted to reach out to you to ask how exactly you applied the Velcro

 

I just added strips until it stopped rattling. I don't care how it looks back here and it sounds fine still.

 

I approached this problem like I have all my other audio projects. I laid down a sheet of KnuKonceptz Kolossus butyl constrained-layer damper (deadening sheet) upside down in the trunk, cutting pieces to fit the sheet metal panel. I focused on the flatter sections of steel which are more resonant. Then I tested the system and found the resonances of the system still present, so i doubled up in some areas and closed off any holes as i went. The second round did it, so I applied 1/4" neoprene foam with spray-on contact cement (Sprayway 92 is the product for this) with the subwoofer hole cut out underneath to seal off the deadening mat and prevent butyl from staining anything that bumps the trunk up there, plus the foam calms down random high frequencies.

This approach from underneath works well because the top resonant side is excited by the steel panel of course, so anything to quell that helps, no matter which side you get to. If I were building this car up with a subwoofer upgrade, I'd have to treat the top side as well.

Now my limit of bass before audible distortion is the fuel door vibrating against its latch.

 

I might have to double up to see if it helps. I was going to try to sew fabric cover to the plastic guard that I assume is underneath.

For the fuel door rattle I used some black butyl audio mat on the inside of the door and cut it to match the interior. Makes closing/opening the fuel door more secure (you have to push in harder to open it).