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I'll have to check out your method next time. After 3 sets of Schrader Valves on the same cylinder, it still leaks. I'm thinking the cylinder itself may have a pinhole somewhere.
Have you tried spraying some dish soap and water on the schrader valve? My air leak was on the ram portion of the hydraulic cylinder and I was able to hear it. When I spoke to a tech at Ranger, he said the air cylinder is only used to lower the jack frame after the weight of the car is no longer on it. Once the seals on the hydraulic piston is broken in after a few uses, the air cylinder is no longer needed. Not sure if this is true or not.
How long have you had your QJ? They might goodwill it if it's a few months out of warranty. Air was leaking from the chrome part
That's actually a really good idea...I'll try that method this weekend.
I bought the QJ Dec '19 so I'm well out of warranty. They were very helpful with small replacement parts but if I do find a cylinder leak, I'll give them a call.
I think part of my frustration with using the QJ is that mine doesn't lift both sides at the same height, so one side will always make contact first and it takes me a while to line things up jumping from side to side.
That's actually a really good idea...I'll try that method this weekend.
I bought the QJ Dec '19 so I'm well out of warranty. They were very helpful with small replacement parts but if I do find a cylinder leak, I'll give them a call.
I think part of my frustration with using the QJ is that mine doesn't lift both sides at the same height, so one side will always make contact first and it takes me a while to line things up jumping from side to side.
I think they might have changed their warranty to 2 years at some point from their 1 year warranty to sell these things.
It almost sounds like you have air in your lines. Mine did that before when I first set it up and after a few bleeds, they both lifted smooth and even.
The problem I'm having is when trying to disconnect the lines from the pump. I have to hold the down button on the remote just to get the quick connects apart.
Can someone show where exactly you are lifting on the pinch welds? I'm looking at the double pinch locations and my SLX w/extensions don't seem even long enough.
Not sure why the word "Deflowered" made me click on this post repeatedly, but the QJ is awesome for a home car nut. I spent a bit more for something taller.....
Is that an Ideal single post lift? Do you like it? Is it fast to setup and use? Is there enough clearance to access the transmission for fluid changes? My heaviest vehicle is a 2014 Tundra crew cab 4x4. I believe it weighs roughly 5,900lbs with a cab-high cap. do you feel this lift can handle a vehicle that size just fine?
Can someone show where exactly you are lifting on the pinch welds? I'm looking at the double pinch locations and my SLX w/extensions don't seem even long enough.
At the furthest points that the extensions allow - the blocks will be at the furthest points on the extensions towards the wheels. There's some splash shields that will come in contact with the blocks (front I believe?), but shouldn't be of concern or get damaged.
It doesn't fully reach the center of the pinch welds. It's one of the many frustrations I have with the QJ. The extensions are heavy, bulky, and expensive and don't even reach the centers of our pinch welds. Kind of wish I didn't buy the pinch weld rubber blocks too.
At the furthest points that the extensions allow - the blocks will be at the furthest points on the extensions towards the wheels. There's some splash shields that will come in contact with the blocks (front I believe?), but shouldn't be of concern or get damaged.
ok, will look next time I try. Was concerned with not lifting them right at the center. As one of mine is already bent; front someone jacking it up from one side I think. Thank you for your reply.
It doesn't fully reach the center of the pinch welds. It's one of the many frustrations I have with the QJ. The extensions are heavy, bulky, and expensive and don't even reach the centers of our pinch welds. Kind of wish I didn't buy the pinch weld rubber blocks too.
thanks for the confirmation. Have you had any issues not jacking them up from dead center? Bends etc?
For the 4GS, try sliding the Quickjack frames toward the center of the car instead of using the pinch welds. You can use the frame rails as the lifting point, even for the SLX models. If you look under the rear doors of the car and towards the center and forward of the rear door, you'll see a cut out in the plastic cover where the frame rail is exposed. Only one tall rubber block is required for this placement. I have a 5000ext and when I first got it, the parts didn't match the instructions and it also came with a leaking air cylinder. It only took Ranger/Quickjack a 6 week time span to send me the wrong hydraulic/air cylinder from the 7000 model and then send me another leaking cylinder until I got a working one.
I know this is a really old post, but I was getting super frustrated since I just got the QJ 7000TL and I couldn't figure out how to get it to lift the GS, but then found your post, a life saver! Worked great!
I did notice one thing tho, after lowering the car, the blocks which came in contact with the frame rail cutout in the rear, had a straight wet line on them... Both blocks. I did notice some sort of padding on that area before lifting, not sure if it had some moisture caught in it... But also a bit paranoid if there was some kinda fluid line running by there.......
I know this is a really old post, but I was getting super frustrated since I just got the QJ 7000TL and I couldn't figure out how to get it to lift the GS, but then found your post, a life saver! Worked great!
I did notice one thing tho, after lowering the car, the blocks which came in contact with the frame rail cutout in the rear, had a straight wet line on them... Both blocks. I did notice some sort of padding on that area before lifting, not sure if it had some moisture caught in it... But also a bit paranoid if there was some kinda fluid line running by there.......
That's strange. Maybe some moisture on the frame rail since there are no lines or drains in that area?
With the QJ7000, it should be long enough for you to use the pinch welds but might be too long to clear the front and rear wheels. Have you tried lifting from the pinch welds yet?
That's strange. Maybe some moisture on the frame rail since there are no lines or drains in that area?
With the QJ7000, it should be long enough for you to use the pinch welds but might be too long to clear the front and rear wheels. Have you tried lifting from the pinch welds yet?
The 7000 TL is not long enough to reach the 2 pinch weld points. The XL I think adds 6 inches but don't think that's still long enough to reach them. Plus with the plastic side skirts etc, high chance of breaking if you try to use those areas with the QJ blocks.
03-04-21, 05:23 PM
