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Deflowered my Quickjack installing Exhaust and Spacers
Finally used my Quickjack on the GS. The extensions and taller blocks are a must if anyone is considering getting one. I ended up cutting a groove in the taller blocks for the pinch welds to sit it - gave just enough clearance so the frame extensions wouldn't be pressing on the body panels. Goin up! Juuuust enough clearance H&R Spacers on Front and Back Exhaust side by side Perfect fitment and perfect sound!
Everything took almost 5 hours, including figuring out how to position the jack and determine best block fitment. Spacers are perfect for stock wheels, and the F Sport's exhaust note should have sounded like this Borla from the factory! Enough at wot to know there's pipes back there, but nothing really noticeable at idle or cruising.
Big shout out to Josh and Meraki - great prices and all of my parts arrived quickly.
RSR Downs and front lip go on next, woo
Please be aware there is a false lock state that the QJ can get into that is a potential danger if you are unaware. This is primarily a risk with the mid-rise stop. If you raise the QJ up past the stop block and go a little bither futher up, enough to also let the cam also go over the stop. If you let it go down into "lock" with the cam foot past the stop block, the cam foot can jam against the stop block. It WILL hold up your car and appear to be locked, but it isn't actually solidly locked. The false lock of the cam jaming against the top block happened on mine and it let go with a sudden bang after I released pressure. If readers are not aware, the SOP is to completely release hydraulic pressure on the QJ.
In true lock, the QJ is very stable, but be aware of the false lock state. Manufacturer and NHTSA have both been made aware of this issue, but I have not seen any action.
I use mine pretty frequently, but am very careful to avoid false lock.
1. Never go far enough up that the cam feet are also past the stop block.
2. Once lowered into lock, inspect both sides to verify that the cam feet freely pivot (not jammed in a false lock). The actual END of the diagonal bar must be engaged for the QJ to be in true lock.
If going under QJ, have a second jack stand system in place. It is unlikely to mechanically fail in true lock, but if your rubber lift blocks are not centered or a false lock has occurred, the extra jacks may save your life.
I've been underneath my SC430 with the QJ three times already today. Yes, I use mine, but take precautions against "false lock"
Last edited by Seattle SCone; 02-28-21 at 09:47 AM.
Is it just me or does it seem like even with the extensions, the Quickjack isn't long enough?
My new extensions are just shy of hitting both jack points front and rear and it takes me forever to line the thing up since I have to double stack rubber blocks.
Getting it lined up with my pinch weld adapters takes up 80% of the time getting my QJ ready to lift. Length is going to really depend on your vehicle and model of QJ +/- extension.
Be mindful of how much radial shift (forward/backward) occurs between time blocks make contact and tires break free of ground. Until that point the shift pulls the top of block stack forward/backwards because non-rolling tires don't move until they actually lift. If you have blocks stacked incorrectly, you'll have be surprised by the bllocks shifting atop each other. That's why the order of stacking is important if you need to stack blocks.
I bought the 5000SLX and soon discovered that I needed the extensions to lift the GS. Even with these new extensions, I can't fully reach the slots in the pinch weld front to back.
The overpriced QJ slotted rubber blocks I bought also don't clear the plastic covers on the underside so I ended up using some generic ones from
Not sure why the word "Deflowered" made me click on this post repeatedly, but the QJ is awesome for a home car nut. I spent a bit more for something taller.....
Is it just me or does it seem like even with the extensions, the Quickjack isn't long enough?
My new extensions are just shy of hitting both jack points front and rear and it takes me forever to line the thing up since I have to double stack rubber blocks.
It was very, very, very close (I got the SLX, the EXT isn't an option on HD so I didn't even know about it till later). If the extensions were just an inch longer it would be perfect, so if anyone is looking at these the EXT model would probably be best. The front block still hit some plastic but nothing that would do damage or make it unstable, it still sat in the pinch weld nicely. I just tried stacking blocks on my IS to clear my side skirts and just on the initial lift I saw the blocks move so never going to even attempt that again. Those blocks have zero friction between them, so with a slightly sloped garage floor like mine or a hard tug on rusty bolt it looks like it could be a disaster. I'm happy with how the modification of the taller blocks worked for the GS, and the IS will require me to remove the side skirts to work so no biggie there.
Overall it will definitely make doing any 4 point wheel work much easier than dragging the jack around. Another thing I like is that I don't need to use the entire garage for jack handle clearance - I could still have 2 cars in the garage and have room to work.
I'm sure it's good and many have used it without a problem. But that Quickjack looks scary to me. I could not trust it. Just me.
If you don't trust it use floor jacks like the OP did, so if the quick jack lock fails it's not going anywhere.
I've actually put my entire car in the air with a floor jack, two stands and 3 scissor jacks. So the entire car is held up at 6 jack points. I did this to paint my calipers.
When I rotate my tires or do a brake job I use the scissor jack with my electric drill attachment and the spare tire.
If you don't trust it use floor jacks like the OP did, so if the quick jack lock fails it's not going anywhere.
I've actually put my entire car in the air with a floor jack, two stands and 3 scissor jacks. So the entire car is held up at 6 jack points. I did this to paint my calipers.
When I rotate my tires or do a brake job I use the scissor jack with my electric drill attachment and the spare tire.
I have 4 extra heavy duty jack stands I use. Backed up by one Large hydraulic floor jack for safety.
Once it's all setup, the Quickjack is actually very solid, it's one of the reasons why I got it. Once the stand locks into position, it's not coming down.
I used to use four 3 ton jack stands to lift the entire car which worked fine, but I always felt uneasy about it.
My biggest gripes w/ Quickjack is the time it takes to lift the car, poor quality control (Leaking Schrader Valves and Hoses), and crazy expensive accessories you will probably need ($80 Rubber Blocks)
For the 4GS, try sliding the Quickjack frames toward the center of the car instead of using the pinch welds. You can use the frame rails as the lifting point, even for the SLX models. If you look under the rear doors of the car and towards the center and forward of the rear door, you'll see a cut out in the plastic cover where the frame rail is exposed. Only one tall rubber block is required for this placement. I have a 5000ext and when I first got it, the parts didn't match the instructions and it also came with a leaking air cylinder. It only took Ranger/Quickjack a 6 week time span to send me the wrong hydraulic/air cylinder from the 7000 model and then send me another leaking cylinder until I got a working one.
Last edited by rog1206; 03-03-21 at 12:20 PM.
Reason: Added pics
I'll have to check out your method next time. After 3 sets of Schrader Valves on the same cylinder, it still leaks. I'm thinking the cylinder itself may have a pinhole somewhere.
02-27-21, 03:26 PM
Deflowered my Quickjack installing Exhaust and Spacers
