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I was disappointed in the fairly high wear numbers on this report. The oil was from the dealer so who knows what it was (dealers are not obligated to use TGMO). I switched to Pennzoil Platinum 0W20 and will be doing additional UOAs around the 3K, 5K and 7K marks, to see what the wear metals look like. Some have chalked up the wear to a still-new engine that's breaking in. Also used a K&N oil filter and installed a fumoto valve. Any oilheads on this forum? Here's a link to my post at BITOG.
Edit: this fill used OEM oil and air filter from the dealer.
That's a crazy amount of iron and copper, would like to see the oil analysis of other new engines. I personally would never do a 10K OCI would go half that especially if the mileage is accumulated over a long period of time.
I have 110k miles on my 2013 GSh. I do 10k oil changes sometimes little longer because weather/life etc. never did oil analysis or really care but the engine runs smooth, no issues.
They might be right your engine is barely broken in.
I recently bought a cheap electric oil pump to remove a few quarts of oil from the dipstick so that I can add some fresh oil. I feel that's a good balance to offset the longer 10k intervals and the time/cost of a full oil change.
Your Air Filter is actually your best Oil Filter. The K&N will let more stuff in especially if not cleaned and oiled frequently. I have one myself and clean and re-oil very often. I would not worry about that too much at this point, Lexus engine are tight and that does mean some break-in is still going on. As for dealers oil, I only run Pennzoil and a Factory filter myself with oil changes 6500 - 7500 miles. Just my personal choice. Going 2 years on a change is not something I would ever do personally.
I would keep the K&N cleaned and Oiled, do the Pennzoil and Lexus filter, change at 7k, wait 2 oil changes and check again. See what difference there is? I would Not change weights so that I could see a apples to apples difference. I think is still more the air filter and a tight low miles engine.
Not to jack the tread on air filters. There are much better air filter elements out there than K&N. The AFe Dry flow filter, with its 3 layers, I believe, outperforms the K&N oiled air filter.
Ok I thought you meant K&N air filter. I personally never use any Oil filter other than the Car Manufactures one.
For the most part, the oilheads over at BITOG believe the K&N is more marketing than function (as do I), so I will likely switch to OEM or one of the major manufacturers at the next change. But with travel reduced as much as it is, with the pandemic, it might be a while before I rack up enough miles to do additional UOAs and keep this thread interesting.
I recently bought a cheap electric oil pump to remove a few quarts of oil from the dipstick so that I can add some fresh oil. I feel that's a good balance to offset the longer 10k intervals and the time/cost of a full oil change.
Which pump did you get? I just ordered the vacuum pump from Blackstone to pull small samples via the dipstick tube, but it doesn't extract enough to perform partial changes.
I had a BMW that required 15,000 mile service but I always changed the oil somewhere between 15000 and 20000 miles. I did not do an early oil change at 5,000 that many on the bimmerfest forums recommended. Had the car for 210,000 miles and no issues. Wouldn’t be too concerned.
You guys are overthinking this with your oil pumps and oil analysis. Geez it’s a Toyota/Lexus, just do the recommended service at the recommended intervals and the car will easily last 200k miles.
Which pump did you get? I just ordered the vacuum pump from Blackstone to pull small samples via the dipstick tube, but it doesn't extract enough to perform partial changes.
03-02-21, 08:26 PM
Used Oil Analysis - 19K on Car, 9.5K on Oil
