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So I got the AEM Intake pipe and installed it today. Did a little increased Air box mod to go with the already installed K&N filter. After looking at the specs I choose the AEM because it was in the slightly larger upper pipe diameter of all the options like HPS and others. Don't want to be to big to keep the air flow CFM high.
I took it to my friend who is a Honda Master Tech and had him do 4 different before and after's with his scan reader. The last reading show a very good improvement of both increased CFM air flow, and lower intake air temperature vs Stock. It was a great improvement and upgrade in performance.
Driving after made me very happy with the Mod. I personally hated the Noise Generator. Now I hear the natural engine and my Exhaust Mod note out back. My Butt dyno feels improvement in all the RPM ranges. Much faster response, and pulling harder and quicker to redline. Absolutely no lag points I felt only increase. My next objective is getting a upper and lower Intake Manifolds to clean up port match and smooth out, along with a very slight Throttle body polish and Bore out. Still have about 5 or more things to do Performance wise, then a Custom ECU Dyno tune I want to do myself on a Dyno, for my specific car and Mods. My Goal is a 320 hp Dyno.
Awesome! I love performance! Once in a while I wish there was a "performance" section in the 4GS forum, but there is always the IS crowd with the same drivetrain and older mod happy cars.
I'm a very "DIYer" and got an aluminium doughnut to make an intake as efficient as I can.
Also, the coolant lines going into the heater through the firewall look like they can be shortened and out of sight. This engine will look amazing cleaned up and wires tucked out of sight as well....
And as for custom tuning, a vendor on here may have something for 2013 GS to do custom tuning..
D3PERFORMANCE.NET
And and, the lower intake to head has a lot of material that can be removed to port match. There are some that may say it is/can be an anti-reversion tactic for the intake, but I like it smooth and shinny.....
The Sound is different. More low woooosh, than wahhhhhhhh, is best I can explain. Remember I did a Lower Air Box air opening Mod, so there is some Intake Noise from that. I want max coolest air flow to my throttle body, not sound. Again I hated that factory sound generator and glad that sound is gone!
I have a Crank case vent filter also that I forgot to put on. That will divert from the Intake more hot air from the crankcase. Will lower the Intake air temperature even more. I'll plug the tap on the pipe and put it on tomorrow.
Also, the coolant lines going into the heater through the firewall look like they can be shortened and out of sight. This engine will look amazing cleaned up and wires tucked out of sight as well....
And as for custom tuning, a vendor on here may have something for 2013 GS to do custom tuning..
D3PERFORMANCE.NET
And and, the lower intake to head has a lot of material that can be removed to port match. There are some that may say it is/can be an anti-reversion tactic for the intake, but I like it smooth and shinny.....
Thanks. I've already been in touch with D3 and working with them on a Tune for the 2013. They could not get much out on the 1st one they tried. I think it was because the car was possibly ECU retarding alot. I don't like 1 for all tunes. I like to tune my own car on the Dyno myself. I use to use the Unichip but going to be using the D3 when I get it all done to tune this time.
I have a lower Intake already. Looking for a low price upper. I'll do the matching and some clean up, but then send it to someone to Flow bench finish and be sure all the ports are flowing equal.
The Sound is different. More low woooosh, than wahhhhhhhh, is best I can explain. Remember I did a Lower Air Box air opening Mod, so there is some Intake Noise from that. I want max coolest air flow to my throttle body, not sound. Again I hated that factory sound generator and glad that sound is gone!
I have a Crank case vent filter also that I forgot to put on. That will divert from the Intake more hot air from the crankcase. Will lower the Intake air temperature even more. I'll plug the tap on the pipe and put it on tomorrow.
He cut a hole in the intake box before the filter, so you can hear all the intake induction noise. I guess the noise is similar to a short ram intake. This I guess bypasses half the stock intake and gets you air from the lower part of the bumper directly to the air filter.
I moved the intake boot down that scoops air from the front hood where it fits into the lower Air box. There is now about a 1 inch gap where it goes into the airbox. There is now a larger amount of air that the Air box can take in from the front. I also cut out and removed the factory restrictive filter material in the top of the air box.
He cut a hole in the intake box before the filter, so you can hear all the intake induction noise. I guess the noise is similar to a short ram intake. This I guess bypasses half the stock intake and gets you air from the lower part of the bumper directly to the air filter.
Close. I didn't cut another hole so the airstream would not be from another direction fighting each other. I've build a few Turbo Hondas and its a Honda trick kinda.
It still keeps the same pressurized stream at the same place and incoming direction, but gives a lager Gap than just what the hood funnel mouth and tube can bring in. Does not cross air streams like having one on the side and one in the front.
If you look at the red in the pic you can kind of see it. Its actually dropped down and Gaped. It's a easy to do free increased air Mod.
I'm actually going enlarge the lower Air box hole about 1 or more inches and block off air flow with a heat shield plate from any warm air coming from anywhere but the front. There is plenty of front air coming from on front behind and to the side of the front Grill if you look in there. You can even use a plastic plate or something to direct it with pressured cool air leading it right to the Gap.
Doesn't the throttle body control the air going into the engine, even if you can get more air in the tube the car is only going to suck in so much air and without a tune your mod is negligible hp increase. Isn't this like most aftermarket intakes just more for the induction noise than any real world power gain.
Also my 450h doesn't have the mesh in the stock intake box, don't understand why the 350's have it, seems like an unnecessary restriction.
Doesn't the throttle body control the air going into the engine, even if you can get more air in the tube the car is only going to suck in so much air and without a tune your mod is negligible hp increase. Isn't this like most aftermarket intakes just more for the induction noise than any real world power gain.
Also my 450h doesn't have the mesh in the stock intake box, don't understand why the 350's have it, seems like an unnecessary restriction.
What does the Throttle Plate control when the plate is fully open? Its the plate that controls. Restrict the flow before the Butterfly plate 50% and you will be able to tell. Increase the flow and you will get just that. My friend has a 14 IS350. He has a Cat back on it. He Dyno'd 3 times with just the Cat back and stock air box. While still on the Dyno, he took off Factory Air Box and installed the Injen Intake with Cat Back. It made 8 - 10hp more on 3 more runs. I saw the Dyno sheet. It was a few years ago. I don't remember what Cat back was he had.
Reason it stood out in me remembering the Injen is because I ran a Injen on a TL with a Zex Kit and it made about 10 more hp also w/o Nitrous. So I almost recently went and got the Injen for my GS350 .Reason I did not is because I hate Intake roar noise.
Also that Mesh screen is on my list next. I cant figure it out either? Was it to keep things like Rodents from chewing through and getting in there? Or was it something in Engineering R&D they discovered would do to break up air flow or increase Velocity, stop air swirl and some kind of help? I wish someone knew? Why do you think its there? IDK?
I moved the intake boot down that scoops air from the front hood where it fits into the lower Air box. There is now about a 1 inch gap where it goes into the airbox. There is now a larger amount of air that the Air box can take in from the front. I also cut out and removed the factory restrictive filter material in the top of the air box.
Originally Posted by jgscott
Close. I didn't cut another hole so the airstream would not be from another direction fighting each other. I've build a few Turbo Hondas and its a Honda trick kinda.
It still keeps the same pressurized stream at the same place and incoming direction, but gives a lager Gap than just what the hood funnel mouth and tube can bring in. Does not cross air streams like having one on the side and one in the front.
If you look at the red in the pic you can kind of see it. Its actually dropped down and Gaped. It's a easy to do free increased air Mod.
I'm actually going enlarge the lower Air box hole about 1 or more inches and block off air flow with a heat shield plate from any warm air coming from anywhere but the front. There is plenty of front air coming from on front behind and to the side of the front Grill if you look in there. You can even use a plastic plate or something to direct it with pressured cool air leading it right to the Gap.
03-06-21, 02:12 PM
AEM Intake more CFM and Cooler
