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Greetings fellow Lexus owners! I just purchased a 2014 70k miles, white with cabernet interior, Gs350 F Sport RWD with the M/L 17 speaker stereo. The tweeters that are in both the rear doors are not functioning. Seems odd that both tweeters are bad? The lower door speaker works but not the tweeter. I pulled one of them out with the hopes of trying to diagnose the problem, but the speaker has 4 wires going to it. So how do I check the speaker itself? Ohms? What terminals? I assume one pair feeds that tweeter and the other pair goes to the corresponding R/L package tray speaker. I only say that because unplugging the door tweeter caused the package tray speaker to stop playing. I also have a rattle at high volume levels from the front left door speaker and the sub in the rear. I am so bummed! I searched for along time to find a clean RWD GS with the Mark Levinson system. I also have a Left front dash speaker making no sound. I plan on swapping out the one from the other side to check it out. Now the real kicker...The prior owner cut some of the wires to the amp, it looks like they just put crimp connectors back on? Red goes to red etc....not all of the wires were cut, you can tell its still the factory harness and connector. It doesn't appear anything was added. All of the splices are solid and they all seem to go to the same color wire. I checked and it is the Mark Levinson amp. Can't really seem to find the appropriate wiring diagram. I want to make sure that the spliced wires are going to the right locations. There are several pairs in the harness that are the same color, I just want to confirm that whoever did the slicing didn't switch a pair by accident. Sorry to be so long winded! Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I too own a 2014 F-Sport GS-350. I've recently installed a system in my vehicle and may be able to help. Sounds like the previous owner made some changes to the audio system. At one time they probably replaced the rear door factory speakers with an aftermarket coaxial speaker and disconnected the tweeter. While doing this, they may have made some wiring changes that did not yield the results they were looking for - without good documentation it would be easy to make a mistake. Maybe, even, they wired the left side rear door and left rear package tray speakers in parallel while doing the same for the right side. Not sure why one would do this, unless the factory amp was damaged somehow on a couple of speaker outputs.
Adding to the confusion, Lexus re-uses colors in their color code for the speaker wiring ( I guess with so many speakers in the vehicle, they ran out of options). What's more, they will even use a solid black conductor as a positive(+) for one speaker, while using solid black as a negative (-) for yet another speaker. They repeat this with RED and WHITE pairs too.
First, You want to verify that the rear door speakers, particularly the tweeters, are wired to the factory amp in the proper order. Using the attached diagrams, verify that the rear door speakers connect from the factory amp FIRST to the rear door tweeters, THEN, using the PINK and VIOLET conductors connect to the rear door woofers. There should be no other speaker wires connecting from the rear door woofers to anything other than the corresponding rear door tweeter. A single, amplified conductor pair (+, -) connect separately to the 4 main sets of speakers in the rear (left rear door, right rear door, left rear package tray, right rear package tray). From the factory, there is no dependence on one set of speaker or speaker wire to another.
Using the diagram, on the Left Rear Door, you should have a Black(+) and Yellow(-) conductor connect from the factory amp directly to the tweeter. The tweeter will have an OUTOUT of PINK(+) and VIOLET(-) that should connect directly to the left rear door woofer. No other conductors should be present on the woofer.
Use the diagram to follow the wiring for the other speakers. Your best bet is to verify the proper conductor FROM the T40 connector at the amp terminates to the speaker its designed to terminate too. This will take time but you can test the conductors to see where they are going with a multimeter - a cheap one will do. However, you will need simultaneous access to your speakers and factory amp.
As far as your other questions, first your tweeter. You can test with with a multimeter. Now, it may not read proper impedance through the protective capacitor it uses. However, you have two options to test the tweeter. Regardless of which test you do, disconnect the T40 connector at the factory amp, and disconnect the corresponding rear door woofer. You want nothing else connected to the tweeter.
Test option 1. Set your multimeter to read impedance or resistance (looks like the omega horseshoe). Connect one lead of your multimeter after the capacitor (BETWEEN the capacitor and tweeter voice coil) and the other multimeter lead to the tweeter's exposed negative wire. you should see something between 2 and 8 ohms. If it reads "OL", you have a problem with the tweeter and its not making conductivity through the voice coil.
Test option 2. If you can't access the the tweeter AFTER the capacitor, you need to test through the capacitor. Set your multimeter to DC Volts. Test the tweeter positive and negative leads. You should see a change in very small milli-volts. The voltage will be small. What you are seeing here is your capacitor either charging (from the multimeter itself) or discharging (depending on which lead you have connected to the positive input) and that capacitance's effect on voltage. Eventually, the capacitance will either level off or drain completely, simply swap the multimeter leads on the tweeter from the positive to negative and watch it rise/fall again. The fact that you can read this small voltage through the capacitor and through the tweeter's voice coil indicates that both your tweeter AND capacitor have conductivity through them. If it reads "0" or "OL", you have a problem with the tweeter, or maybe, though less likely, the capacitor.
If you want more details of where to place the multimeter leads, you can take some photos of the tweeter and the woofer and post them here. That may help me more accurately identify testing points. Good luck.
Thank you for this! It is awesome to see this level of help on the 4GS forum!
In person, I would have done exactly what you recommended. Through text instructions, I couldn't begin to put my troubleshooting methods in any logical order. Then again, I am usually in a state of disorder......
I have a 2014 gs 350 fsport. There was A small fire inside of the vehicle, it damaged the - panel. The center console the radio as well as the screen. All damaged items were replaced and installed.. Underneath the center console there were damaged wires. Due to those burned wires, the radio/screen will not power on the orange light does come on. ON TGE RADIO I AM able to use the hazard lights if I need. Currently, the vehicle is at Lexus, but because the vehicle was repaired from an outside source. They're stating my extended warranty through carmax coverage may not cover the work. They have checked all the fuse in the vehicle in state. It looks good no codes pop up on the vehicle the vehicle is still operable Repaired burned wires under center console Burned wires from under cener console Damge due to fire Damage due to fire
05-24-21, 10:25 AM
Speaker wiring/issues
