When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Very nice! I took my bushings to a shop since I was doing the front springs, alignment and a few other things I wasn't in the mood to do myself. They said it was a pain and charged me for 3 hours of labor on this. I knew they were full of it since it seems fairly easy.
If i had a hoist and a shop, 45 minutes flat.
But... the AWD is easier than a RWD, which i assume you have. there are 2 nuts you have to deal with on the RWD. Still.. shouldn't take 3 hrs for someone competent.
So what's the main advantage of running the GS-F bushing ? What's the difference/advantage in the stock vs the GS F one??
There's a few points discussed in the earlier posts but the main one is that under hard braking or hitting bumps, the steering stays more stable and straight, more in control. It dosen't dart out unexpectedly. The IS crowd does it to help with positive camber tire wear as under steering load, the camber tends to go way positive and cause premature tire wear. Essentially its keeping the tire more stable during above-normal loads.
I went with the positive caster version in an attempt to tighten up the steering feel but I didn't experience much improvement. I may need to get the car to a dealer for a proper alignment to really see those effects but I'm still happy with the above mentioned benefits.
But... the AWD is easier than a RWD, which i assume you have. there are 2 nuts you have to deal with on the RWD. Still.. shouldn't take 3 hrs for someone competent.
Can these be removed and replaced while on the ramps with the suspension loaded? Or does it need to be jacked up (no suspension load) for removal and replacement, then torqued under load?
I tested this - the wheels need to be off the ground, in order to get the bolts to line up. If there is any load on them, you cant get the bushing in the right place.
This is from a 2014 base model. Replaced these yesterday with the GS F bracket ( 0 offset).
Take a look at the depression/indent on both sides of this bracket. The bracket on the other side of car was the same.
Is this normal for a base model? Or are they just that worn out?
With the bracket on the ground, and holding in place with my feet, I put a metal dowel in the center hole and was able to move the bushing relatively easy.
Tried the same on new bushing and it would not budge.
Even with pressure from my thumb is was easy the press the bushing in on the old bracket.
So what's the main advantage of running the GS-F bushing ? What's the difference/advantage in the stock vs the GS F one??
Much higher durometer rubber, and there is a higher caster version for additional self-centering. I have the zero offset version, so my caster did not change(this was a mistake on my part, I ordered the wrong p/n) but the car is more stable under braking and sharper during mid-corner adjustments.
There are aftermarket versions which are designed around the high caster version, but they are made of polyurethane, so there may be additional NVH concerns. I am very happy with my GS-F bushings.
This is from a 2014 base model. Replaced these yesterday with the GS F bracket ( 0 offset).
Take a look at the depression/indent on both sides of this bracket. The bracket on the other side of car was the same.
Is this normal for a base model? Or are they just that worn out?
With the bracket on the ground, and holding in place with my feet, I put a metal dowel in the center hole and was able to move the bushing relatively easy.
Tried the same on new bushing and it would not budge.
Even with pressure from my thumb is was easy the press the bushing in on the old bracket.
Those are definitely worn out. How's the test drive after changing them?
What are the signs of LCA bushings going bad? I wonder if my creaking noise is a sign of my LCA bushings going bad. It sounds like it's coming from that area.
Those are definitely worn out. How's the test drive after changing them?
Steering has firmed up quite a bit. The overall feel of the car has certainly changed. It was great before the swap, now just that much better.
Going to have an alignment check soon. 6 months or so ago my Lexus dealer recommended an alignment (see pic) and I declined knowing I was going to replace these brackets
I am not well versed in this, what can anyone tell me about the brackets affecting alignment? Did the toe being off a tad warrant an alignment? Also, my steering wheel is off center ever so slightly.
What are the signs of LCA bushings going bad? I wonder if my creaking noise is a sign of my LCA bushings going bad. It sounds like it's coming from that area.
If mine were making noise, I did not hear it.
I used to have an IS250 with inner tire wear. As you may know that was common with the IS. I replaced the brackets on the IS but did not keep it long enough to see if actually corrected the tire wear.
About a month ago I replaced the front pads and rotors on my GS. I noticed a few cracks in the bushing so I decided to replace. Very happy I did.
Hey ya’ll. I installed the gsf bushings on my awd 2015 gs350 f sport and I’m getting a ton of clunking from both sides. Over small bumps, when turning, when breaking and when accelerating from a stop.
Any ideas? I know these shouldn’t require any lubricant, but I’m starting to think otherwise.
Confirmed everything was installed correctly and torqued to spec.
Planning on doing this shortly to my 13 AWD, have the bushings in hand but wanted to know if anyone had the exact torque specs for AWD? Earlier in the thread someone mentioned 111 ft-lbs for the center nut on the bushing itself, but not sure about the other 2 bolts.
I found this picture of a 3IS AWD torque specs:
Listed off the following in ft-lbs:
Centre nut (bushing): 83
Large bolt: 111
Smaller bolt 63
Can anyone confirm if the same numbers applies to the AWD GS models?