GS450h vin decoder and how to check all of my equipment?
02-14-22, 07:25 PM
#31
Lexus Test Driver
02-14-22, 07:54 PM
#32
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02-14-22, 08:03 PM
#33
Here is my current pick tell me guys what do you think of that its some cool luxury package petrol car no batteries no invertor no stupid hybrid issues.
https://www.autobidmaster.com/bg/car...6hC8PwDidGQ_TM
tell me what do u think of that cool petrol cars which will last forever
too many miles my current hybrid cars batteries issue, invertor issue all expensive stuff...
https://www.autobidmaster.com/bg/car...6hC8PwDidGQ_TM
tell me what do u think of that cool petrol cars which will last forever
too many miles my current hybrid cars batteries issue, invertor issue all expensive stuff...
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Im2bz2p345 (02-15-22)
02-14-22, 10:00 PM
#34
Lexus Test Driver
I'd rather drive a new corolla than a junk GS.
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02-14-22, 10:34 PM
#35
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...se-advice.html
Yes he owns and recently purchased a clean title 450h with 350,000km(just over 217k miles). Now he questions the whole engine, drive train, and hybrid system. He posted clips of sounds from the engine bay, but to me all sounded normal.
Now the guy wants a salvage title car with lower miles
If your importing from the US why not buy a clean title 3-5 years used GS, that was taken care of? Unless your backyard is a salvage yard.
Yes he owns and recently purchased a clean title 450h with 350,000km(just over 217k miles). Now he questions the whole engine, drive train, and hybrid system. He posted clips of sounds from the engine bay, but to me all sounded normal.
Now the guy wants a salvage title car with lower miles
If your importing from the US why not buy a clean title 3-5 years used GS, that was taken care of? Unless your backyard is a salvage yard.
Last edited by peasodos; 02-15-22 at 08:44 AM.
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02-15-22, 03:48 AM
#39
Lexus Test Driver
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...se-advice.html
Yes he owns and recently purchased a clean title 450h with 230,000km(just over 217k miles). Now he questions the whole engine, drive train, and hybrid system. He posted clips of sounds from the engine bay, but to me all sounded normal.
Now the guy wants a salvage title car with lower miles.
Yes he owns and recently purchased a clean title 450h with 230,000km(just over 217k miles). Now he questions the whole engine, drive train, and hybrid system. He posted clips of sounds from the engine bay, but to me all sounded normal.
Now the guy wants a salvage title car with lower miles.
He refers to the GS 450h's engine as 'my engine', but I was under the impression he passed and never purchased the 450h.
Like 703 said; It's still unclear if he purchased it or not.
The guy is definitely a 'head case' and cannot be believed or understood...
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ItzFilyO (02-15-22)
02-15-22, 07:55 AM
#40
Lexus Champion
Sounded normal to me too. The hybrid drive can handle way more than that.
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bclexus (02-15-22)
02-15-22, 08:44 AM
#41
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JDR76 (02-15-22)
02-15-22, 09:17 AM
#42
02-15-22, 09:58 AM
#43
Lexus Test Driver
On a hybrid car, if ur battery goes dead can u still drive it like a normal gas car? Just thirstier maybe?
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Im2bz2p345 (02-16-22)
02-15-22, 02:39 PM
#44
But I guess the hybrid battery 100% dieing is extremely rare. I saw in the forum a 3GSh with one weak battery cell and still kicking at 270k+ miles, rest were fine.
If the 12v battery in the trunk is dead you can't start the car.
Last edited by peasodos; 02-15-22 at 04:04 PM.
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02-15-22, 03:20 PM
#45
If a battery cell dies "open", which is extremely rare, you can't do anything.
If a battery cell dies "shorted", which is like 99% of the cases, the car will simply limit power flow from/to the battery and you'll still be able to drive it - probably without any noticeable highway consumption difference. A bad idea, regardless. Hasn't been confirmed, but from what I've seen on the EPCs, the 4th gen seems to be using the same cells as the 3rd gen (and resp. the prius, c-hr hybrid and what not), so good battery modules shouldn't be in short supply - particularly over here I'm running modules manufactured in (I believe, was a long time ago) Jan/March 2018 from crashed C-HRs - 28 from one car, 12 more from another since the GS has 40 modules. That was a _long_ time ago. The battery chemistry has evolved over the years, so doing something like this might very well make the hybrid battery outlive the car. Plus, there are alternative options now that seem to have a very good track record... if one bothers to search and not post 10000 threads about things that can be looked up in 2 seconds via a google search, of course.
Fun fact - in mine (3rd gen but whatever) the battery code was actually for a cell ABOUT to fail - noticed a module sagging a lot compared to the rest during hard acceleration, instant code and a barely perceptible loss of power under full throttle - you have a 300hp engine and a battery that can push like 40... I mean c'mon. The lack of torque fill is the main driveability issue. Not saying that you can drive it like that, but the chances of it leaving you on the road are not as high as people like to think (read: pretty slim).
Anyways, just figure in the costs of a replacement battery / PROPER refurb when you buy the car and that's it. The other BIG ticket on the hybrid is the brake actuator's motor - same as any other car with a similar brake-by-wire system, the brushed DC motor eventually eats/wears its armature/commutator over time, so the moment you get a "brake" warning - STOP, because it might be the last reserve pressure in the system that you're going to get (in case the motor stops in such a spot that the brushes can't make contact to spin it). Anyways, ~$2k part since the motor isn't sold separately. In our case (3rd/4th gen GS's with this, some others), the motor, accumulator and solenoid block are sold as one assembly. With some other cars you can order just the motor OR the motor & actuator (both are technically wear items) and... well, $1000 repair on such a car is hardly a big deal, in my opinion.
No issues with the inverter on this gen what-so-ever (and anything with the LS600h double-sided cooling with leaf springs applying pressure to the heat sinks/IGBT modules - I guess there's barely any thermal interface degradation), so not exactly sure why he's saying he's got problems with it... but then again we can't be sure about a ton of things in this case, can we now...
If a battery cell dies "shorted", which is like 99% of the cases, the car will simply limit power flow from/to the battery and you'll still be able to drive it - probably without any noticeable highway consumption difference. A bad idea, regardless. Hasn't been confirmed, but from what I've seen on the EPCs, the 4th gen seems to be using the same cells as the 3rd gen (and resp. the prius, c-hr hybrid and what not), so good battery modules shouldn't be in short supply - particularly over here I'm running modules manufactured in (I believe, was a long time ago) Jan/March 2018 from crashed C-HRs - 28 from one car, 12 more from another since the GS has 40 modules. That was a _long_ time ago. The battery chemistry has evolved over the years, so doing something like this might very well make the hybrid battery outlive the car. Plus, there are alternative options now that seem to have a very good track record... if one bothers to search and not post 10000 threads about things that can be looked up in 2 seconds via a google search, of course.
Fun fact - in mine (3rd gen but whatever) the battery code was actually for a cell ABOUT to fail - noticed a module sagging a lot compared to the rest during hard acceleration, instant code and a barely perceptible loss of power under full throttle - you have a 300hp engine and a battery that can push like 40... I mean c'mon. The lack of torque fill is the main driveability issue. Not saying that you can drive it like that, but the chances of it leaving you on the road are not as high as people like to think (read: pretty slim).
Anyways, just figure in the costs of a replacement battery / PROPER refurb when you buy the car and that's it. The other BIG ticket on the hybrid is the brake actuator's motor - same as any other car with a similar brake-by-wire system, the brushed DC motor eventually eats/wears its armature/commutator over time, so the moment you get a "brake" warning - STOP, because it might be the last reserve pressure in the system that you're going to get (in case the motor stops in such a spot that the brushes can't make contact to spin it). Anyways, ~$2k part since the motor isn't sold separately. In our case (3rd/4th gen GS's with this, some others), the motor, accumulator and solenoid block are sold as one assembly. With some other cars you can order just the motor OR the motor & actuator (both are technically wear items) and... well, $1000 repair on such a car is hardly a big deal, in my opinion.
No issues with the inverter on this gen what-so-ever (and anything with the LS600h double-sided cooling with leaf springs applying pressure to the heat sinks/IGBT modules - I guess there's barely any thermal interface degradation), so not exactly sure why he's saying he's got problems with it... but then again we can't be sure about a ton of things in this case, can we now...
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