6 years no oil change gs450h advice me please
#76
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Taste is subjective.
Oil cap and the part under the oil cap look fine.
We can't say a thing without hearing those "weird noises", so either provide material (video recording & explanation of what exactly is weird) or we can't say anything. You may have noticed that people have already kinda given up anyway, but you can certainly try to be more informative.
Usually almost nobody services/swaps shocks until they're completely blown, at least on consumer vehicles. Doesn't mean that they don't deteriorate (look it up yourself, can't be bothered explaining only to have nothing reach the intended... destination).
Suspension - unless you wanna spend like 10k eur replacing every single rubber part (i.e. pretty much every single alu suspension component... and alu means $$$$$$)... don't touch it unless there's an ACTUAL issue. At most - change the front lower control arm big bushings, which have been documented for all concerned platforms - 2IS/3IS/3GS/4GS. I run GS-F LCAs, IS-F rear subframe bushings (yes, I dropped it lol) and full polyurethane on the rear. Surprise, surprise - the rear was completely fine, I was just crazy.
Errors:
TPMS - missing sensor data. Two seem gone? Fix later, not critical.
ABS - C1242 - can be caused by bad aux. battery. I'd go with that first, ESPECIALLY if the car brakes just fine when turned on.
All other codes:
-They are all marked as "history" - happened in the past sometime. They're also all conveniently Uxxxx errors (lost comms with whatever ECU) - could be that somebody forgot to connect something somewhere and started the car up, could be a drained aux battery event at some point, etc. Bottom line is - don't worry about them, clear them if you want, doesn't matter.
I'd check the aux battery first. In case it needs replacement - note the size, note the shape (including the lack of protrusions at the bottom), note everything, because the GSh (both 3rd and 4th gen) has a... very unique battery for Europe. It's supposed to be an AGM but a regular 12v will work just fine - the OEM spec is AGM since it's in the cabin and an AGM won't spill in case of a rollover accident.
Why exactly did you have to call roadside assistance? Car wouldn't move or something else?
Why did you have to wait 3 months for a car from Latvia?
I'd replace the tyres RIGHT AWAY if they have zero thread. By the way, bad/old tyres is a surefire way of spotting a not-so-well-taken-care-of vehicle, as everybody knows.
Oil cap and the part under the oil cap look fine.
We can't say a thing without hearing those "weird noises", so either provide material (video recording & explanation of what exactly is weird) or we can't say anything. You may have noticed that people have already kinda given up anyway, but you can certainly try to be more informative.
Usually almost nobody services/swaps shocks until they're completely blown, at least on consumer vehicles. Doesn't mean that they don't deteriorate (look it up yourself, can't be bothered explaining only to have nothing reach the intended... destination).
Suspension - unless you wanna spend like 10k eur replacing every single rubber part (i.e. pretty much every single alu suspension component... and alu means $$$$$$)... don't touch it unless there's an ACTUAL issue. At most - change the front lower control arm big bushings, which have been documented for all concerned platforms - 2IS/3IS/3GS/4GS. I run GS-F LCAs, IS-F rear subframe bushings (yes, I dropped it lol) and full polyurethane on the rear. Surprise, surprise - the rear was completely fine, I was just crazy.
Errors:
TPMS - missing sensor data. Two seem gone? Fix later, not critical.
ABS - C1242 - can be caused by bad aux. battery. I'd go with that first, ESPECIALLY if the car brakes just fine when turned on.
All other codes:
-They are all marked as "history" - happened in the past sometime. They're also all conveniently Uxxxx errors (lost comms with whatever ECU) - could be that somebody forgot to connect something somewhere and started the car up, could be a drained aux battery event at some point, etc. Bottom line is - don't worry about them, clear them if you want, doesn't matter.
I'd check the aux battery first. In case it needs replacement - note the size, note the shape (including the lack of protrusions at the bottom), note everything, because the GSh (both 3rd and 4th gen) has a... very unique battery for Europe. It's supposed to be an AGM but a regular 12v will work just fine - the OEM spec is AGM since it's in the cabin and an AGM won't spill in case of a rollover accident.
Why exactly did you have to call roadside assistance? Car wouldn't move or something else?
Why did you have to wait 3 months for a car from Latvia?
I'd replace the tyres RIGHT AWAY if they have zero thread. By the way, bad/old tyres is a surefire way of spotting a not-so-well-taken-care-of vehicle, as everybody knows.
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Im2bz2p345 (05-01-22)
#77
Instructor
Thread Starter
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Car battery is 10 years old should it be replaced or not? Also brakes are gone, waiting for the car because of shipping people, car starts but after few seconds its dead thats why was used roadside... not sure if its related to batteries
#82
Lexus Test Driver
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moderator edit
Bclexus exit this thread and place bladest on your ignore list so there are no future conflicts. This trolling needs to end.
Bclexus exit this thread and place bladest on your ignore list so there are no future conflicts. This trolling needs to end.
Last edited by DaveGS4; 04-23-22 at 07:23 AM.
#83
Lexus Test Driver
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My original 12v lasted 7 years, your lucky to get 10 years.
#84
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Just to reiterate, finding a compatible (in terms of form factor) 12v right now is very difficult over here.
Original hybrid batteries are known to last 10+ years - it definitely should be changed by that point, but hybrids are notoriously easy on them... and notoriously tolerant of 12v battery degradation - up to the point when the dash lights up for every possible error listed in the database
Original hybrid batteries are known to last 10+ years - it definitely should be changed by that point, but hybrids are notoriously easy on them... and notoriously tolerant of 12v battery degradation - up to the point when the dash lights up for every possible error listed in the database
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#85
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just to reiterate, finding a compatible (in terms of form factor) 12v right now is very difficult over here.
Original hybrid batteries are known to last 10+ years - it definitely should be changed by that point, but hybrids are notoriously easy on them... and notoriously tolerant of 12v battery degradation - up to the point when the dash lights up for every possible error listed in the database![Big Grin](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Original hybrid batteries are known to last 10+ years - it definitely should be changed by that point, but hybrids are notoriously easy on them... and notoriously tolerant of 12v battery degradation - up to the point when the dash lights up for every possible error listed in the database
![Big Grin](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#88
Instructor
Thread Starter
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It means battery is old and exhausted , unfortunately it needs to be replaced i dont know how to modify the tray to fit agm battery. i think original battery for europe is lead acid not agm.