Lexus gs450h no brakes/serious issue please help..
#32
Instructor
Thread Starter
its very tiny space i cant inspect or see , i tried , are these copper lines sold new or only used can they be repaired? Also after zero down accumulator procedure is made whats next procedure remove pressure , how to make pressure again do i need to make zero down 2 times or something else after first zero down?
#33
Zero down is to release pressure before you change brake fluids.
Why are you doing it now?
Also why are you performing these procedures when your aux battery is bad? This will cause damage.
Why are you doing it now?
Also why are you performing these procedures when your aux battery is bad? This will cause damage.
#34
Instructor
Thread Starter
I will put battery in charger i will need to do this procedure in order to fill the braking fluid reservoir level at the correct level since i have a leak. What i need to do after zero dawn, whats the next step to do it again in order pressure and fluid to be taken inside? My charger have option maintain the car its pro charger from ctek swedish.Recondition battery charge maintain etc
#35
-Open the reservoir cap (notice the spelling)
-Wrap ALL around it with towels
-Start the car
-Perform accumulator zero-down - it MIGHT spill some fluid over. The release might be quite violent, so keep in mind that it might strike up a bit. Wear safety glasses, goggles, etc. After that, you're done.
-The car might (should) automatically start filling it back up, unless you've disabled that functionality somehow - for example, by removing the two ABS motor relays, which are in a separate relay box somewhere next to the brake actuator & traction control ECU.
-Once pressure is low, the car will "buzz" constantly on the inside. This is how you know, unless you're looking at the pressure on the live data tab of techstream.
-Change your f***ing 12v battery like yesterday.
-Have you checked whether it's leaking from the diff area or are you somehow absolutely, POSITIVELY certain that it's a hard brake line.
-Let's see if you'll manage to blow up your main fusible link (or your HV-12V DC-DC converter) with the CTEK. (a.k.a. get a new 12v but I guess panicking and being absolutely irrational and writing what cool exotic GS you have in your sig is way more important)
-Wrap ALL around it with towels
-Start the car
-Perform accumulator zero-down - it MIGHT spill some fluid over. The release might be quite violent, so keep in mind that it might strike up a bit. Wear safety glasses, goggles, etc. After that, you're done.
-The car might (should) automatically start filling it back up, unless you've disabled that functionality somehow - for example, by removing the two ABS motor relays, which are in a separate relay box somewhere next to the brake actuator & traction control ECU.
-Once pressure is low, the car will "buzz" constantly on the inside. This is how you know, unless you're looking at the pressure on the live data tab of techstream.
-Change your f***ing 12v battery like yesterday.
-Have you checked whether it's leaking from the diff area or are you somehow absolutely, POSITIVELY certain that it's a hard brake line.
-Let's see if you'll manage to blow up your main fusible link (or your HV-12V DC-DC converter) with the CTEK. (a.k.a. get a new 12v but I guess panicking and being absolutely irrational and writing what cool exotic GS you have in your sig is way more important)
The following users liked this post:
Im2bz2p345 (05-01-22)
#36
Pole Position
#37
Instructor
Thread Starter
-Open the reservoir cap (notice the spelling)
-Wrap ALL around it with towels
-Start the car
-Perform accumulator zero-down - it MIGHT spill some fluid over. The release might be quite violent, so keep in mind that it might strike up a bit. Wear safety glasses, goggles, etc. After that, you're done.
-The car might (should) automatically start filling it back up, unless you've disabled that functionality somehow - for example, by removing the two ABS motor relays, which are in a separate relay box somewhere next to the brake actuator & traction control ECU.
-Once pressure is low, the car will "buzz" constantly on the inside. This is how you know, unless you're looking at the pressure on the live data tab of techstream.
-Change your f***ing 12v battery like yesterday.
-Have you checked whether it's leaking from the diff area or are you somehow absolutely, POSITIVELY certain that it's a hard brake line.
-Let's see if you'll manage to blow up your main fusible link (or your HV-12V DC-DC converter) with the CTEK. (a.k.a. get a new 12v but I guess panicking and being absolutely irrational and writing what cool exotic GS you have in your sig is way more important)
-Wrap ALL around it with towels
-Start the car
-Perform accumulator zero-down - it MIGHT spill some fluid over. The release might be quite violent, so keep in mind that it might strike up a bit. Wear safety glasses, goggles, etc. After that, you're done.
-The car might (should) automatically start filling it back up, unless you've disabled that functionality somehow - for example, by removing the two ABS motor relays, which are in a separate relay box somewhere next to the brake actuator & traction control ECU.
-Once pressure is low, the car will "buzz" constantly on the inside. This is how you know, unless you're looking at the pressure on the live data tab of techstream.
-Change your f***ing 12v battery like yesterday.
-Have you checked whether it's leaking from the diff area or are you somehow absolutely, POSITIVELY certain that it's a hard brake line.
-Let's see if you'll manage to blow up your main fusible link (or your HV-12V DC-DC converter) with the CTEK. (a.k.a. get a new 12v but I guess panicking and being absolutely irrational and writing what cool exotic GS you have in your sig is way more important)
how to fix it how to fill this thing with fluid and pressure again is it procedure to fill it up or car will auto fill it? I filled my brake reservoiar close ti the max level
#38
You stop and start the car again.
Google what C1256 is and you'll figure out why it got set.
You fill to the MAX with the accumulator zeroed down and the pump NOT running. Otherwise, fluid can spill over. IF you zero it down once and it spills over fluid (and you collect it), I wouldn't worry about it.
Google what C1256 is and you'll figure out why it got set.
You fill to the MAX with the accumulator zeroed down and the pump NOT running. Otherwise, fluid can spill over. IF you zero it down once and it spills over fluid (and you collect it), I wouldn't worry about it.
#39
Instructor
Thread Starter
You stop and start the car again.
Google what C1256 is and you'll figure out why it got set.
You fill to the MAX with the accumulator zeroed down and the pump NOT running. Otherwise, fluid can spill over. IF you zero it down once and it spills over fluid (and you collect it), I wouldn't worry about it.
Google what C1256 is and you'll figure out why it got set.
You fill to the MAX with the accumulator zeroed down and the pump NOT running. Otherwise, fluid can spill over. IF you zero it down once and it spills over fluid (and you collect it), I wouldn't worry about it.
Before and after accumulator zeroed,
after i followed your instructions car doesnt have the issue error code i started it again and error code was cleared from tech stream i also used towels etcs.. just in case
it was scary car buzzing like crazy.
Thanks for the tip, so now i should have the correct level of fluid i removed the excess fluid with my syringe.
it was brand new from the pharmacy.
Lets imagine my floor spill of misterious green liquid is differential fluid is it even this possible, what colour is diff fluid, also if diff is dry will i have some error codes or some noices when car is running or started can someone clarify?
Brand new diff fluid is green, unfortunately i have not measured how much brake fluid car had when was received to me from the last service so i still dont know, and service repair is at least 2 weeks away.
Car was started all the time, since i dont manage to do the procedure with car shut down?
#40
Either start acting on advice or trying to... you know - think and solve things yourself (including giving it to actually competent people), or stop posting here.
#41
Instructor
Thread Starter
Diff fluid is gear oil / (manual) transmission fluid / that thing that "those incompetents at Toyota Sofia wanted to put in your rear diff". Like engine oil, it comes in all sorts of colors, typically gold-ish/brown/clear, but also green. No, there are no sensors in it.
Either start acting on advice or trying to... you know - think and solve things yourself (including giving it to actually competent people), or stop posting here.
Either start acting on advice or trying to... you know - think and solve things yourself (including giving it to actually competent people), or stop posting here.
#42
For the 50000th time - no, and I won't refer you to anybody that I know, just like everybody else over here that has told you NO.
You don't want to learn what harassment means in a legal context.
Oh, there will be noises, but by then it'll probably be past the point of no return.
You don't want to learn what harassment means in a legal context.
Oh, there will be noises, but by then it'll probably be past the point of no return.
#43
Instructor
Thread Starter
For the 50000th time - no, and I won't refer you to anybody that I know, just like everybody else over here that has told you NO.
You don't want to learn what harassment means in a legal context.
Oh, there will be noises, but by then it'll probably be past the point of no return.
You don't want to learn what harassment means in a legal context.
Oh, there will be noises, but by then it'll probably be past the point of no return.
i will continue to suffer in that case, i dont understand, what harastment will bring my money if they are payed to you or to the people you know? What will happen to you and these people with my money , they will die from something or what , where is the harrasment i dont see it?
They will receive money and payment and i will receive fixed car, both sides happy.
From your friends from the service which you reccomended from the non existing dealership " 1 customer again , I feel sorry for the owners of new Toyota cars, and even more so for Lexus, where the service should be more adequate !!
Check the warranty battery for 2 days, no one picks up the phone to tell you what's going on, nothing, SUCCESS !!! Toyota, Lexus? "
Last edited by bladest; 05-02-22 at 04:40 AM.
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