When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi everyone, long story short. I was just involved in a car wreck earlier today. The driver tried to beat the yellow light while I had right of way doing 30-40mph. I tried to evade a front collision so I was hit on the rear driver side, lost control and hit a car in front of me.
I’ve put some work on this car and do not want to have it totaled so I wanted to get some expert opinions on what y’all think. I’m trying to anticipate what to expect next week with the adjuster/inspection. Do you think it is fixable? I live in Texas and it’s got all the premium features. 62k miles.
Thanks for your time.
Last edited by lorenzi323; 05-06-22 at 11:52 PM.
Reason: Entry didn’t save
Just can’t exceed certain % of total repairs depending on the state. So I checked for California at 100,000 miles/good condition that would be $16,100 in repairs. Anything higher would be a total loss. I believe you can repair still but I believe it become salvage title.
Depends on how many miles also? Value to damage cost wise?
Those are some expensive damages. I would think the rear hit is going to be the deciding factor depending how bad the trunk floor is? If its accordioned that's going to shoot the cost about Totaled. Sorry to see you had this problem. When I do drive my GS, now a days. I drive looking out for everyone as if it a video game and they are all trying to hit me, but acting like they are not. I rode bikes for a long time and use to ride the same way.
Just can’t exceed certain % of total repairs depending on the state. So I checked for California at 100,000 miles/good condition that would be $16,100 in repairs. Anything higher would be a total loss. I believe you can repair still but I believe it become salvage title.
It has all the premium features and only 62k miles so I’m hoping it’s fixable.
Depends on how many miles also? Value to damage cost wise?
Those are some expensive damages. I would think the rear hit is going to be the deciding factor depending how bad the trunk floor is? If its accordioned that's going to shoot the cost about Totaled. Sorry to see you had this problem. When I do drive my GS, now a days. I drive looking out for everyone as if it a video game and they are all trying to hit me, but acting like they are not. I rode bikes for a long time and use to ride the same way.
It’s got 62k miles and I’m in Texas. The damage to the rear is on the side but I’d assume they’d need to replace entire rear bumper.
Personally, I'd talk to the adjuster when he comes to look at the car and let him know that if the car is borderline on being totaled, that I'd really like him to consider the car totaled. Get rid of it right away (by it written up as totaled) and buy another car.
If totaled, and it appears to be. Do Not take the Insurance company's 1st offer price. Look at the sites for GS's for sale like years and miles and equipment. Counter with the Highest price. Advise that your car was in A-1 condition, had all the service up to date, all tires were name brand and almost new, if they are. Explain that the GS is going for high dollar right now and discontinued.
Ask for the exact comp's they used to compare with? Most times it is not apples to apples, of course low in their favor. If your car had a clean carfax use that too. I would counter 2 times back with a high payoff amount. We just had our prior Kia totaled. I countered and got a payout that was comparable to one 2 years newer with the same miles. They paid it! Don't settle low on the 1st offer. Stand your ground on the pricing and research and counter with 2-3 cars your found listed for sale at the very highest price close to your car year, type and mileage and equipment.
Most ppl settle and leave $2k - $4k or more on the table shorting themselves. Thinking the 1st offer was good when it was not the max payout they could have gotten.
Personally, I'd talk to the adjuster when he comes to look at the car and let him know that if the car is borderline on being totaled, that I'd really like him to consider the car totaled. Get rid of it right away (by it written up as totaled) and buy another car.
If totaled, and it appears to be. Do Not take the Insurance company's 1st offer price. Look at the sites for GS's for sale like years and miles and equipment. Counter with the Highest price. Advise that your car was in A-1 condition, had all the service up to date, all tires were name brand and almost new, if they are. Explain that the GS is going for high dollar right now and discontinued.
Ask for the exact comp's they used to compare with? Most times it is not apples to apples, of course low in their favor. If your car had a clean carfax use that too. I would counter 2 times back with a high payoff amount. We just had our prior Kia totaled. I countered and got a payout that was comparable to one 2 years newer with the same miles. They paid it! Don't settle low on the 1st offer. Stand your ground on the pricing and research and counter with 2-3 cars your found listed for sale at the very highest price close to your car year, type and mileage and equipment.
Most ppl settle and leave $2k - $4k or more on the table shorting themselves. Thinking the 1st offer was good when it was not the max payout they could have gotten.
JgScott:
Thank you for the thorough feedback and advise. I certainly learned a lot from your analysis and will absolutely take that information into consideration when dealing with the insurance company.