When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So recently I've been checking everything I can to be sure I can get anything wrong with my car repaired by the dealership I bought it from while my limited warranty lasts. A few weeks ago I hooked up Torque and graphed a few things just to see engine response to the pedal, check timing advance, etc. One thing I noticed is that the throttle body doesn't report 100% open when I mash the gas (And I do mean I mash it). It only shows 80% throttle.
So, reading through posts and being familiar with the full-throttle button on other vehicles I felt the pedal with the engine off and I do not feel a click from the button (which I guessed should be there).
Today I pulled the carpet back to check said button... I found no button.
Above is the PN for the styrofoam backing, and the accelerator pedal.
Am I not supposed to have the button with a Lux packaged car, or is the switch built into the pedal assembly?
You are driving by wire so even though you are on the mat, if the car doesn't need any more air/fuel, it wouldn't report 100% throttle. Where you in sport mode? I would try it in first gear and hold it, shift manually and hold it again. If you are only hitting 6300 RPM. See what results that returns.
We know that if you have any brake pedal applied, the throttle goes dead and acts like it is in limp mode. I suspect this is in response to the people that died from floor mats on the pedal that didn't have the presence of mind to throw the car in neutral.
Interesting timing... went out this morning to pick up a few things and decided on an Italian tune up. I noticed the rpms only went up to ~6500rpm. Scratched my head for a second and switched to Sport mode... I think the max rpms went to 6700 or so... forgot all about the detente. Got to go back out and experiment with WOT a litle more.
Interesting timing... went out this morning to pick up a few things and decided on an Italian tune up. I noticed the rpms only went up to ~6500rpm. Scratched my head for a second and switched to Sport mode... I think the max rpms went to 6700 or so... forgot all about the detente. Got to go back out and experiment with WOT a litle more.
To answer the questions, it was while in sport+ mode I did that, so I was expecting MAX power out of it. Also going up a slight hill.
Another run got me this at a near level grade, shifting around 6.4k . Now, I'm on 93octane. Not top-tier (Sheetz) , but I would expect timing to suffer at some point if the gas was crap. Playing around with dash command to get more PIDs available and possibly find spark knock, and then knock retard that has been calculated since the last tank (I know there's a term for it from 'yota, I forget it though).
Interesting though, I read on some other vehicles (foreign and domestic) that you may only see 80% via Bluetooth or SAE PIDs logged (Hp tuners has SAE or make specific) will only report max 80%, when it's really 100....
...and now typing this I'll just need to log the mass airflow at a given RPM and I'd know if the throttle is actually fully open or not. I'll be back when I math that out. I'll try the gear-hold method. And, yes, so many incidents that could've be avoided by shifting to neutral. Fun fact, at my last job the new plant manager was employed by Toyota during that time, and she went on a tangent about how plants have ran so much better and faster with her there. I said during that meeting "Almost like shoving something on the gas pedal?" She didn't get it. My manager tapped his pen at me, but we laughed in his office later about it.
Nice to see the engine goes rich for making real power. Older vehicles just hold stoich all the way to redline until you actually "need" the power.
The 2GR throttle will not fully open. Thats how the MAF is mapped. Its about a true 80% at WOT. Only a Tune and playing around with Intake will get it a little higher. This is what I have been explaing for a while here. If you put something like the hp losing Takeda Cold Air Intake it will open even less without a Tune and lose hp. All GS 350's do not open the TB fully. Its normal. That's whats nice about useing a Tune.
The knock retard cal is called KCLV - Knock Correction Learn Value. The 2GR-FSE is a little detuned restricted by Lexus. Go get a bottle Of Lucas Octane Booster and throw it in the tank. It works!
One other trick - hold the Traction of button for 6 sec till both lights on dash come on indicating off. Then drive WOT and see if you get a higher TB openning rating?
The 2GR throttle will not fully open. Thats how the MAF is mapped. Its about a true 80% at WOT. Only a Tune and playing around with Intake will get it a little higher. This is what I have been explaing for a while here. If you put something like the hp losing Takeda Cold Air Intake it will open even less without a Tune and lose hp. All GS 350's do not open the TB fully. Its normal. That's whats nice about useing a Tune.
The knock retard cal is called KCLV - Knock Correction Learn Value. The 2GR-FSE is a little detuned restricted by Lexus. Go get a bottle Of Lucas Octane Booster and throw it in the tank. It works!
One other trick - hold the Traction of button for 6 sec till both lights on dash come on indicating off. Then drive WOT and see if you get a higher TB openning rating?
Are there any tunes out there when only 91 octane is available?
To answer the questions, it was while in sport+ mode I did that, so I was expecting MAX power out of it. Also going up a slight hill.
Another run got me this at a near level grade, shifting around 6.4k . Now, I'm on 93octane. Not top-tier (Sheetz) , but I would expect timing to suffer at some point if the gas was crap. Playing around with dash command to get more PIDs available and possibly find spark knock, and then knock retard that has been calculated since the last tank (I know there's a term for it from 'yota, I forget it though).
Interesting though, I read on some other vehicles (foreign and domestic) that you may only see 80% via Bluetooth or SAE PIDs logged (Hp tuners has SAE or make specific) will only report max 80%, when it's really 100....
...and now typing this I'll just need to log the mass airflow at a given RPM and I'd know if the throttle is actually fully open or not. I'll be back when I math that out. I'll try the gear-hold method. And, yes, so many incidents that could've be avoided by shifting to neutral. Fun fact, at my last job the new plant manager was employed by Toyota during that time, and she went on a tangent about how plants have ran so much better and faster with her there. I said during that meeting "Almost like shoving something on the gas pedal?" She didn't get it. My manager tapped his pen at me, but we laughed in his office later about it.
Nice to see the engine goes rich for making real power. Older vehicles just hold stoich all the way to redline until you actually "need" the power.
Can you show vacuum signal for similar runs? Vacuum indicates restriction. If the engine is pulling a vacuum at WOT, then you have a restriction, be it intake, filter or throttle body.
I've set up some PIDS to log. I'll try to get a WOT run today.
Working on getting a good steady baseline MPG figure from it from one gas station. Then to check different ones to see if they're worth the time spent to visit them. So far the past few tanks have been right at 22.95mpg (so the dash is off by 0.3mpg).
08-21-22, 08:53 AM
Missing full-throttle button?
