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It’s always nice to have things slide right on. But in my case it took a little effort, once I got the damper lined up with the key hole I used the crank bolt to slowly push it on. And only applied just enough force to ease the damper on and stopped if I noticed any resistance as to not damage the key.
Originally Posted by lobuxracer
To be fair, I haven't removed the damper on the GS F, but the IS F is not even a light press fit. It just slides on the crank nose like nothing. I was really, really surprised by this, and every aftermarket damper I have seen needs both an installer to put it on, and a puller to get it off.
Reviving this for a moment. In case anyone in the Atlanta area wants to do this without concerns about damage, I have the OTC tools to remove the bolt and the damper. I also have the tools to properly press the damper on the crankshaft and hold it while applying the proper torque to the crank bolt. Happy to help the membership with this, it's not a long involved process, but doing it right is a big deal for longevity.
So the day has come. Just got the pulleys from RR. I don’t have access to a lift so I am curious if anyone that has already installed this has done so without a lift? More specifically from under the car. I have seen some have removed a few parts (intake, airbox, etc) and done it from the top side of the engine bay. Would prefer to use my 12” wheel cribs and tackle from underneath but questioning whether I will have enough leverage to get the crank bolt to spec.
I guess I could try from underneath and any issues just finish from up top. But anybody had success doing this underside without a lift?
It's easier from underneath IMHO. The hardest part isn't the tightening, it's getting the bolt off in the first place. That's what inspired me to buy the OEM tool for this.
Figured I would pass along an update to those like me looking to tackle from underneath the vehicle. I second @lobuxracer it was quite nice to do from under the car. Put the two front wheels up on 12” wheel cribs and plenty of room to see and reach everything. Has to be more comfortable on a creeper than standing and bent over. Crank bolt came off without too much cursing and OEM pulley came off shockingly with only a slight pry nudge. (Noticed someone on Reddit had trouble prying off and screwed bolts in the bolt holes of the pulley to get it off…hadn’t heard that option.) There is plenty of documentation out there but two things of note I experienced:
1.) I had garage wall on one side and a heavy fridge on the other. This made it a nice landing spot for my feet to gain the extra leverage to get the crank bolt off then torque’d down to spec. (Obviously from laying on the floor and not on the wheeled creeper)
2.) I have seen two versions of the tool RR includes to keep the crank pulley from turning to get to the 242 ft points of torque. Mine was a perfect rectangle but I have also seen a rectangle with a triangle cut taken out (pics below). My 300 ft pound torque wrench with 3/4” drive and 22mm socket was too thick to use because of the shape of the RR tool. This is probably why the other version I have seen had the triangle section cut out to give more clearance for the socket. I used a 3/4” to 1/2” adapter/reducer and just barely had enough room to fit. I was a bit nervous that much torque would snap the adapter but luckily it was not an issue.
As others have said, an incredible RR product and work of art. Haven’t driven much to test out but could feel tires breaking loose lower in the RPM range in first gear than before. Overall, a pleasant install from under the car and highly recommend for any on the fence.
04-18-24 | 01:06 PM
